One of my very regular clients brings me bags of fabrics that she finds on her many travels around the country. We discuss what each fabric will be and then I make up the same pants pattern Butterick 5222. One change I make to her pants is to not use the waistband and just make my own facing for every pair. She comes for a fitting when the pants are basted and sometime I have to take in a dart or side seam a little and then also alter the facing too. Here are photos of the procedure:
Normally I cut 1 inch higher than the normal waistline seam and then when the seam is established, I attach a waist stay usually from my favorite rayon hem tape stitched to the wrong side. The excess is pinked for later.
Here is the paper pattern for the back facing. You can make one too by just pinching out the darts and laying pattern paper over the top of the front and back pieces. Mark center front and back and keep the straight of grain lines from the original piece.
Sttich your facing all the way around and then understitch to the seam allowances and flip inside. If you have labels, stitch one one while flat and then hand tack the center back, side and front seams down. My client likes invisible zippers instead of a fly front on this pattern so all her blouses lie very flat over her tummy area.
So far I have made this pants pattern 9 times this year in many different types of fabrics and they all come out great. In fact whenever a client wants pants, I direct her to this same pattern because the side seams hang straight and the crotch curve and depth just seem to be right every time.
On looser wools I do use fusible seam tape on the crotch seam and before I attach the invisible center front zipper for stability. The waistband facing is always interfaced and the hems have rayon hem tape too. This client likes to wash all her pants so all the fabrics are washed and dried before cutting.
Before I go I wanted to share some real crappy alterations I found inside a lined pair of VERY expensive pants this week. It appears that the crotch was lowered in the wool but not the lining…does this make any sense? Also the thread used was bright blue and grey on a navy/almost black fabric. White serger thread completes the look.
You never know what you will find inside!!!
The white basting thread marks the new crotch seam with the white serger thread removed. I just could not stand the mess and had to clean it up. These pants will have my name on them as the last person to work on them and heaven help me if someone finds this sort of bad workmanship!