What are those Lines?

Recently I purchased a $20 blouse pattern from The Sewing Workshop called Liberty Shirt.

Here are all the blissfully happy sewers on Pattern Review who proudly display their finished blouses with the suggestion “Highly Recommended”. Have a look at the photos and that protruding front section flying out and away from the body like the wearer was standing with a room sized fan at her back. Oh yes, let’s recommend this pattern to everyone that wants to look like this remembering that “highly recommended” means “It was so easy I didn’t have to think about reading the directions too much”or “I’m sure it will fit so I don’t have to make a muslin and it will certainly cover my boobs and butt”.

Notice also that in every photo the woman looks like she is leaning backwards because the back section is pulling the front section up and back which adds even more to the shortened front length of the front sections. Each blouse is screaming “give me more back length and front length” and that little collar looks like it is strangling a few of them like a noose. That back section has no scope for adjusting for a rounded back either, no pleats, no gathers, no yoke and of course all females from 20-80 yrs old stand perfectly erect and have to issues back there…was this pattern designed by a man or a woman with no bust at all?

It had an unusual diagonal side seam and hem feature but what really intrigued me were the vertical lines down the front and across the hem. They looked like either princess seams or facings flipped to the right side and stitched down. They could have been contrasting fabrics! The pattern arrived today and guess what? It has neither of those. The front is a plain/boringly simple one-piece, the facings are meant to be inside and all the design lines in the envelope photo are just plain machine stitching to hold the facings to the blouse. Have a look and tell me what you see:

A sister blogger,  Theresa, made this pattern in a solid fabric but you cannot tell what is going on in the front sections and she may have just sewn the fronts as one piece anyway:

      You can see in the brown shirt how the side seams flow forward but as the fronts are cut completely flat with no darts or shaping the issue will always be drag lines running to the bust points. Maybe that doesn’t bother most folks but it screams “I made this right out of the envelope” to me and can have that “maternity top” effect giving way to the thought that you could be hiding something under all that fabric.

So besides being disappointed/fed up and now being given the challenge to make yet another flat front blouse into something flattering that hangs perpendicular to the floor and not bagging out to the front the next step is to drape it on my duct tape dummy and pin out darts or princess seams.

Here I was thinking how cool it would be to have those vertical princess seams right where they should be and adjustable made up in a lovely linen or rayon….hmmmm,  so hold that thought for another day in 2012.

While some of you are waiting for the final bride of 2011 post I have to hold off one more day as her wedding is on the 29th and it might be bad luck showing her dress before the actual event. Young brides these days need all the good luck they can muster!

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10 Responses to What are those Lines?

  1. Alethia says:

    Only a true seamstress/sewist would be able to point that out. Most times people just sew without knowing how something should really be. And, if you get the kudos from others, then it must be okay, hmmm. This is the very reason why I DO NOT like to shop retail~ I notice the things that should not be in clothing construction, especially if it comes from a supposed name brand store.

  2. prttynpnk says:

    The sainted Mrs Darling, my old home ec teacher always said skip patterns that didn’t have actual photos on the envelope- that line drawing makes this really interesting, but the pictures look so frumpy. I’m frumpy on my own, thank you very much!

  3. theresa says:

    In all fairness, the brown stripe is the Liberty shirt and it has been made twice by me, the first one is here on my blog http://runamuckweaving.blogspot.com/2011/11/whats-black-and-white-and-red-all-over.html
    where I do showcase the design details of those angled side seams. The pattern envelope does show a line drawing, but also on the SW website is a very comprehensive gallery of most of their patterns. I personally love both blouses and find them comfortable and rather flattering to my short, portly frame these days. I’m so sorry that you didn’t like the pattern one whit.

    • mrsmole says:

      After checking out all the finished examples they just did not flatter any body but maybe being comfortable is more important?

  4. G.Petunia says:

    I need to have my body flattered by my clothes, too. Re: Have a look and tell me what you see: I see a shirt that might have been designed for someone with large breasts who wanted to wear it without a bra and I think that’s what the fashion illustrator illustrated. What’s with the popularity of all these points hanging down below the hemline? That just looks messy. BTW, I recently bought V1128 despite a 3/4 profile photo that makes the model look like a severe case of dowager’s hump. I’m thinking of cutting the back and back yoke in size 8 and the front in size 12. I’m also waiting for inspiration about making the armholes smaller and the sleeves longer and narrower.

    • mrsmole says:

      Have a look here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/69677 for only one review. That sleeve could be narrowed along with the dropped shoulder either on paper or later in the basting stage. The underarm seams could be pinned and taken in as much as you need. Taking in the dropped shoulder would also influence the back yoke area by narrowing it too and the high bust so be careful or you could end up with a tight coat bodice where you need it to be roomy. Measure your body’s yoke across and also the paper pattern to see what they give you for ease. You could also lay an older coat/jacket pattern on the V1128 and compare the width and length of the sleeve making sure the new one (if narrowed) would be what you need. In narrowing the new sleeve it could shorten a bit and you end up with 7/8 or 3/4 looking sleeves…oh no!
      As far as why it seems all the designers are making patterns with pieces that drop below the hemline…could it be boredom?

  5. Pingback: Liberty and the Dummy | fit for a queen

  6. ci says:

    I never buy this brand pattern. They are sort of Art-to Wear without any real knowledge of pattern drafting.

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