Lumpy Linen

As promised in my last post I have a Coldwater Creek linen jacket for you.

The client said that maybe the lining was too small and it never fit right so I said I would take a look at it. Here is what showed up:

The first thing you notice is the bulge above the top buttonhole. On careful inspection you can see the grain of the fabric is all pulled up so whoever made this buttonhole let the outer fabric slip up and away from the facing beneath. Nothing I can do about that…yet. The other problem is the lower right hem area caused by the facing being too short. You cannot imagine a woman buying this jacket off the rack like this but…they do.

Where to start? The outer fabric had to be shortened to match the shorter facing so I slip fabric from the top of the buttonhole up towards the reversed princess¬† seam and pin out 1/4 inch (total 1/2 inch). Even more had to be pinned along the way while I am thinking about the decorative stitching on every seam…how is that done and how will I reproduce it and can it be done?

Let’s move down to the hem…after releasing the facing it slides up 1/4 inch to be relaxed. Not a very big seam allowance to work with so that will have to be re-sewn by hand.

After opening up the lining you can get a better idea of the problems. Princess seam and lapel edge seams need to be adjusted and re-sewn so everything lays flat but what to do about that darn decorative stitching?

Pinned on the outside everything is checked and hand basted on the inside everything looks like it might just work…fingers crossed! And now you can see how that decorative stitching was done…it is a chainstitch done after the seams are sewn together and pressed flat but showing on the right side. Great…so glad I pulled it and unraveled it to use later in a big eyed needle!

The hem facing is pinned and ready to sew by hand and here is the finished project:

  While it looks better on the hanger it looks pretty darn good in the mannequin so the client will be very happy.

Next time some real cool repair work to a shredded jacket back and more brides.

Today a new client is coming and you will love this my seamstress friends…she tells me over the phone that “This job will be simple and fast for someone who knows what they are doing”…translation: I don’t want nor expect to pay a lot of money for something I could do myself at home if I made the time. That makes me smile/want to scream!

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4 Responses to Lumpy Linen

  1. theresa says:

    Well, that was quite a transformation! That decorative stitching always reminds me of my grain sacks. Pull at the beginning and the chain stitched seal comes undone on a piece of long paper.
    Not a look I care for. I would have sent that poor thing back from the get go with those problems.

    Hope the new client is not as bad as it seems (seams ;>) right now.

    • mrsmole says:

      Yes, Theresa, you’re so right with the feed sack stitching! Did you ever see Dirty Jobs with Mike Rowe trying to stitch the tops of real feeds sack shut with grain inside? Hopeless! The woman was so in love with her jacket because it went with a flowered skirt AND she wants to wear it to her daughter’s wedding so it had to be fixed right now.

  2. prttynpnk says:

    I love your problem solving posts! They are so interesting- almost as interesting as your clients!

    • mrsmole says:

      Introverts are known for their quiet time problem solving skills…this was one of those times. You have some clever solutions on your blog too with ribbons!

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