More Jackets and Brides

Essense of Australia makes some beautiful gowns and this week I have the delight of altering one. If you click on the link you will see the most wonderful train effect using a huge godet/triangular piece of fabric sewn into the center back seam. I don’t know why more designers don’t use this feature as it really enhances the back sweep of the dress. At the top of the godet there is a diamond shaped jeweled brooch  to math the others at the center back above the zipper. To bustle this dress that will be the focal point and attach somewhere above the last 2 crystal buttons. My bride still had lots of fabric dragging on the floor even after pinning so I am shortening the godet hem by about 12 inches so she does not drag her dress through the meadow and get grass stains.

Another bride who decided to cut off her long dress to be very short added her daughter’s flower girl dress and asked to have a purple band of satin added to the hem. It is 8 inches wide and wrapped around to the inside to measure 4 inches finished.

Here they are together with a sweet pose:

This week also features more sheer silk jackets for a regular client, you will recognize the style from previous posts.

For those of you who ask/argue why fabrics should be treated/preshrunk before cutting out I thought I would include a graphic photo of 3 identical fabrics, Brussels Washer linen and rayon blend, identical width and length. They were all washed and pressed and here is the result:

In a 3 yard cutting there is a 5 inch difference in length and a 2 inch difference in width. Imagine that in a finished garment!!! To me it makes no difference what the fabric content, I treat it before cutting like it will be treated after cutting so there are no surprises. It also takes the chemical smell or store smell out of the fibers and you can tell if the fabric will be sturdy enough to hold up to wearings or the “hand” is what you really want. I have pre-washed/soaked in a tub of hot water many silk boucle wovens that were held together with sizing and when that vanished the threads just got all wimpy and revealed their lack of stability.

Now that summer has finally arrived to the Northwest the peas that were so abundant in the garden have dried up and stopped producing but the green beans are going crazy! Of course with the warmth the zucchini and butternut squash and Japanese eggplant have come into their own. The strawberries are sending out runners to make new baby plants for next year and our peach tree broke a branch with the weight of heavy fruit just about a week away from harvest. Thankfully the garden has taken care of itself recently as the sewing has not allowed me to escape and do much out there. Maybe this coming weekend I can do a little weeding and tying up and staking…fingers crossed!

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6 Responses to More Jackets and Brides

  1. Elle C says:

    I just want you to know how much I enjoy your posts. I always learn something. Thank you so much.

  2. mrsmole says:

    Well Elle, I learn something with almost every garment even if it is the fact that I never want to do a particular type or technique again…ha ha. Thanks for your comments! Your blog cracks me up especially the quotes about procrastination! I lived in the Vancouver, BC area back in the 70′s and we used to drive through your area on the way back to Saskatoon to visit my husband’s relatives. Love your cherry tree photos.

  3. prttynpnk says:

    That purple band really adds a little something…too cute.

    • mrsmole says:

      Wish the ivory chiffon was a little shorter to show more of the purple but they did not want the dress any longer so you do the best you can to make her dress match her older sister’s purple one who was the maid of honor. Nothing quite as creative as your color combinations on your blog which are dynamic!

  4. theresa says:

    I like the short dress myself! I think it’s a wonderful change from the standard. So, tell me are sleeves beginning to happen in wedding dress styles?

    I am guilty as charged about not washing my fabrics. Guilty, guilty, guilty…..The garden sounds like a little patch of Eden. Peaches…Peach shortcake…yummmmmmmm.

    • mrsmole says:

      No sleeves have found their way to the sewing room this year; the closest thing would be a halter. Pre-shrinking fabrics really matters if you don’t use anything but cold water but in my house all the colors share the same bath water of warm so I sure don’t want any surprises later. I pre-shrink all my interfacing (in 5 yard lengths) as well and either throw it in the dryer for non-fusible or hang on a rod if it is fusible since I made an heirloom type blouse for myself and the first washing the interfacing shrunk all inside the buttonhole area of the front facing. Nothing to do but cut it all out and use some swear words…lesson learned…everything has shrinking qualities! Your blog has some cool tops!

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