OK, Hands up those of you who shop at Coldwater Creek. Many of my clients swear by these “Holly” pants but from time to time they just don’t fit as tight as they should.
I thought maybe you would like to see what is on the inside that makes them so comfortable.
They are lined, a nice touch, so let’s pull the lining to the outside so everything is exposed. This particular pair of pants was supposed to be just like the others my client ordered but they were huge in the waist. Right away can you see the length of the stitches holding the waistband together? It must be at least a 4.5 to 5.0 in length and see the jagged path on the right hand side…wait till you see why it veered off.
First the center back seams (knit fabric and lining) are thread basted after pinning out the excess. Yes, I know this will throw the back darts off into a tizzy leaning into the center back but it was the best place to alter as the side seams were happy where they were.
We need to remove 1.75 inches from each side totaling 3.5 inches in total…can you spell mislabeled in the factory? Before I rip everything apart I take note of that all importance “sewing sequence” that guides me back to reality. Even though the knit pants are serged unto elastic, the lining is simply thrown on at the last minute and stitched with that long basting stitch to join it all together.
The lining darts are pressed opposite to the fabric darts…did we talk about fabric darts? Remember that bump in the stitching? Guess what caused it?
Of the six darts in these pants 2 of them were flipped and stitch incorrectly and caused the final stitching to jump because the lining dart and fabric dart were stacked. Even industrial machines can’t sew through that much bulk without wobbling a little. Of course on the outside of the pants the buyer will never think to look at weird bumps and it got past the quality control person in Guatemala.
So now my job is to make all this right before sealing up the pants.
So here’s a breakdown of how to make these pants:
1. Find a rayon/poly/spandex knit you like, cut out slim fitting pattern.
2. Add some front and back darts to knit and polyester lining.
3. Attach some knit elastic to the waistband by serging. The elastic is the same circumference as the pants, not smaller, so they stretch together when sliding over the hips.
4. Match lining top edge to elastic and stitch RST just below the serging making sure all the darts are in the right direction and lining darts are flipped the opposite direction.
5. Turn everything right side out and hem the pants legs. I stitched in the ditch on front and back and side seams to keep everything flat for about 1 inch.
Now you have saved yourself $80 and the heartache of altering some badly made pants from a foreign country.
This week with Fall approaching the prospect of our 20 year old half dying Ash tree dropping enough leaves to fill 18 big garbage bags we opted to have it taken out. Here are some shots of before and after. Yes, they needed a cherry picker truck to get high enough to chop off the top branches and then later when they wrapped a rope around the trunk to load it on the truck. The final shot is the massive shredder that ground all the branches into sawdust.
Two more brides dropped off their dresses this week so there is no rest for this wicked girl! My poor husband asked me “why is it so hard for women to buy a wedding dress that fits?” Does anyone know the answer?