Two weeks ago I shared this post about a baggy muslin jacket I was making for a regular client. Well, she came yesterday for her fitting and decided that the jungle fabric would be best used on cushions for patio furniture but it is interesting to see what alterations were made to her muslin.
Some of you commented that you also had made versions of other baggy boxy jackets and never went further so I have photos of what worked yesterday. You remember how the lines that were drawn horizontally across the lower section were rising up in the front and back and how the front and back centers flared out away from the body of my duct tape dummy?
On a real live body the front still rides up, the biceps are tight and we added shoulder pads because we add them to all her clothes for balance. Drag lines point to the seam line with the button. It is screaming, “Release me!” So let’s get some scissors and do just that…just don’t cut what is underneath!
Adding a 2 inch section of gingham shows what we needed to make lines straight and drag lines disappear. Of course, this causes other problems but nice ones as we have to pin out the side seams to reduce bulk. At this point the added section will narrow down to nothing at the armhole like a wedge but that may change later. Let’s check out the back…
Now her shoulder seams are allowed to slide forward and sit where they belong instead of pulling toward the back. This new section also allows the 2 crossed over back piece to lay flatter and closer to the body without making a “rooster butt”.
The final photo is what happens to the sleeve…it is tight and restricts her movement. I slash that puppy vertically to see what we need there and pin in the new section of gingham.
That inch piece can be left there and altered on the paper pattern or it can be transferred to the wedge sections on the front and back to make for a more even addition on paper.
Once I get to that stage of backtracking next time it will be clearer as to where the best place for it will be. Custom fitting is so much fun as it makes it so apparent so fast as to where you need to add and subtract and then working back to the paper it can change a little more to be cleaner. But you can see in the last photo that the original horizontal lines are now parallel with the floor and the side seams are hanging straight down and the center front and back fabric are hugging the body. For now all is sweetness and light and my client plans a fabric shopping spree in Portland this weekend to search for the perfect fabric for her new jacket…that lucky girl!
Before I leave you to attend to my peas and beans that have emerged from the ground this week on Day 8 I thought you would like to hear some customer comments and emails I got this week. Below are the actual emails:
I am writing to ask how much it would cost to replace a zipper in a skirt? The skirt is red felted wool (I think) and the zipper is the hidden-type. The other issue is that we are driving into your area for an event that runs Sunday-Wednesday, and were hoping to have it done on Monday… so I am not sure if that is realistic, or what your schedule this week but I figure it is worth a shot to ask.
I would charge $16 for labor and you would have to bring the invisible zipper replacement (From JoAnn’s Fabrics) in that color as I have mainly darker colors. It can be done for you in a day, no problem.
A mother of a bride called me to ask 3 things before she would make an appointment:
Do you own a cat as MOST seamstresses own cats?…Really? No I don’t own one as I sew bridal gowns.
How long have you been sewing for clients?…40 years
Are you any good?…Maybe you might want to read the 11 reviews on Google to help you make up your mind as my clients seem to think so.
Next time paper pattern show and tell and comparing Vogue pattern sizing for different bust cup sizes…how exciting, no? Thanks for dropping by! Welcome to all the new followers from Rhonda’s blog!