I’ve had this dress in my sewing room all summer…you got a peek at it in this post: http://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/2013/08/03/blue-and-orange-complimetary-colors/
Now that it has been finished and ready for the Asian-themed Charity Ball next week you may want to see the steps that went into re-making it. Lots of photos coming your way! To start with it had some weird vertical and diagonal tucks that stuck out at the tummy. It also had no side coverage so I put some chiffon in that area to show my client what could/
should be done:
Some of it slides north to the neck…see the extra…2 inches and the rest, see the green thread tracings? go into the side seams: There was so much wrong with this dress that I had to open the side seams to find more tucks done previously.
OK, have I mentioned the silk lining? Oh Yes…it was very large especially in the bust cup area and had to be reduced: But along the way after opening the lining side seams I discovered this white line:
Hands up, who knows what that represents? It had been stitched twice and then dyed later…it was white fabric dyed after construction. Once the side seams were re-pinned and ready for final stitching guess what?
Here is the lining pinned to all the edges of the dress ready to be hand sewn.
To make the chiffon side panel I had to make a pattern so I started with ivory chiffon and used my favorite pattern making medium, True Grid from JoAnn’s .The chiffon is used doubled for modesty and here you can see I have the pattern still pinned while I sew them together. My client tried on the dress and we discussed the shaped and drape of the chiffon tails. She thought the dress needed a little extra WOW factor so I bought more chiffon and cut two 60 inch squares so the drape would be diagonal and fall nicely. The chiffon was cut doubled, rolled hem all around the 4 sides and sewn doubled but the issue for me was how to attach it without looking homemade??? The top edge of the fold would be 15 inches gathered down to 6 inches. Finally, after many hours of basting and flipping and ripping out and many diet Dr. Peppers, I decided on using the very center of all this chiffon folded over on itself and hand stitched to the dress while letting the second layer flip over to cover the stitches. Then the machine would stitch over those to make it more secure. The top edge follows the shape of the waist which is very flattering.
It sure is nice to see a project finished and out the door!