Vacation Over

I have squirreled myself away for the month to re-charge and make a few things before the onslaught of brides for the 2016 season.

You have asked to see photo of my projects…none are earth shaking or trendy or artistic, just functional for working on the floor. If you are expecting to see useless angled pockets or off center collars and flared hems…ah no.

Before we arrived at our destination, I was rummaging through my overnight bag and my finger caught the edge of a new disposable razor that had lost its cover. It sheared off a layer of skin and there was blood all over the place. Now one week later you can see the length and width of the slash:P1040762

To start with I am sewing in a rented house with my Janome Jem and a bag of fabrics and patterns and an iron I found in the closet:iron-2 Can you see the bottom edge? Yes, this puppy has seen some rough treatment…I’m guessing it has been dropped unto the tile floor more than once. If you pour water into it for steam, it just drips out the bottom…nice.

But what can you sew on vacation while sharing opposite ends of a narrow dining table with your husband? You can see my “station” in the background…machine and ironing board and after cutting my TNT tunic on the kitchen counter, it is pinned and ready to stitch in the round. The crummy part was…this fabric has the circles wandering off at about a 30% angle so there is no hope of matching anything so using it on a baggy tunic seemed the best way to use it without folks thinking I have cut everything lop-sided.


When sewing in the round, each section is fed into the machine right after you back stitch the last section, then cut the short connecting threads after you get to the last section. Yes, I know lots of you want to sew “directional”…I have seen all the shows that say side seams are sewn from top to bottom and shoulders are sewn inwards towards the neck…lovely for home sewing and if you think this matters when sewing on quilting cotton. I learned this way in college and in the factory so I am stuck doing it this way.

sewing-in-the-round-2  sewing-on-the-round-3

I ended up adding vertical front and back darts to eliminate the bagginess and added the sleeves. The red thread tracing will be where I topstitch the inside facings to add a little pizzazz to this plain tunic…I may use the blue thread so it shows up instead of black.tunictunic-2

You can see all the angles now and how your eye is doing flips just following the circles…what a mess, but it is my work uniform for sitting on the floor and it will look fine with black shorts.

What else was sewn you ask? Remember that other co-ordinated cotton with the blue dots? I had just enough to make some shorts and some other blue quilting cotton to make a longer version of cropped pants…all with elastic waistbands for sitting and pinning all day. Can the new blue shorts be worn with the new tunic…sure, but the white striped pair will have to be worn with a plain white blouse.P1200221

Now I have a question for you…yoga pants…the type with at least 6 inches of fold-over at the waist…WHY? I ordered some online and then tried them on…who needs all that extra fabric around your waist if you don’t do Yoga? I decided to fold the top over and thread trace the top edge with a fold back to insert some 1 inch wide elastic. This seems way more practical for my life style. You can see I cut off 2.5 inches, serged the top edge and will fold it down.


I used a 3-step zigzag to sew over the serged edge and use navy thread just in case I ever have to unpick that to put in new elastic…you would never see the black thread…ever!


OK, with the pants sorted out…what did I find when I got home from the desert? How about some fresh snow on my raised covered veggie planter…can you guess what has been growing inside since Mr. Mole planted seeds in Oct?


How about this….happy and healthy rainbow Swiss chard…yummy and bug free and the more you pick, the more you get and they can produce for 2 years if you keep the hungry birds off them.


Next time some not so happy sewing and maybe a peak at some of the new brides finding their way to my doorstep…so far there are 17 signed up starting this week…a couple have grown out of their dresses already due to over-eating and pregnancy…I feel some corset backs coming….

So glad to be back home in the sewing room with carpets and heating and my grown up sewing machines! Wishing you all a great week of sewing and maybe for the US gals…some special time to get away from the Super Bowl football watching husbands and sons…one can only hope!

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My Habit Knitwear

Have you ever bought anything online and it arrived looking better than you imagined or worse?

Recently I ordered a tunic from a website called

Here are the tiny photos of the model wearing the tunic:


Even though it looked like some wrinkles were forming at the back hem, I decided it was worth a try as the price was right at $29.

The fit was perfect except for one thing…see the striped strip running vertically down the center back? Well, it was buckling and caused the hem to flare away from the body and who needs a rooster butt? P1190187

What was needed was to remove that strip and allow it to relax and add more to it once the length was determined. Let’s do it:


Great, now that we know what we need…where was I going to get it?

Luckily there were some long ties at the elbow and I could “harvest” a section and attach it.


Once the strip was stitched on both edges and all down the middle as the original, I realized that the sleeve treatment was really very clever. It involved a strip of knit binding sewn in an oval and the ties left as is.P1200046

Another great online shopping site is Zulily. My first purchase was a knit tunic that ended up being very thick like a child’s soccer jersey, almost indestructible. With the first order, they sent me a survey as to how I liked my purchase. I replied that it was not quite what I was expecting and within a day I received an email telling me that they would refund my payment and for me to give the garment to a charity.

I was shocked and pleased that such a thing could be done but lately I have been seeing more and more of the same story on Facebook pages about this company and their no return policy. They treat customers well!

So with only 2 days left of vacation, I feel relaxed and re-charged and instead of shopping and buying stuff I did not need, I had 3 Thai massages instead. If you have never had someone walk up and down your back and work for 90 minutes getting all the kinks out…you should try it. Some of you may be asking…but what about buying fabric…they have one JoAnn’s, almost identical to the one I have back home…sad… and one tiny quilt shop so no place for me to spend my mad money.

I’ll be back next time with the things I sewed on while away and a new crop of brides who have been emailing me while away…a few red flags…always good for a blog post! Hoping you all have had a productive month of sewing and sorting through your stash and not too much snow fell where you live!

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Vacation Home Rental

For the past 4 years we have escaped our home-based businesses and headed for a desert hideaway to re-charge. We have rented through a company called VRBO or Vacation Rentals by Owner. There are lots of photos and grand descriptions of the homes along with prices and local amenities.

The first 2 years we rented a divine single level house in a residential neighborhood on the south side of an airport and golf course and we watched flights land silently and gracefully and old men with golf carts wandering off to find lost balls. It was idyllic with a small office for Mr. Mole and huge dining table for sewing projects and a kitchen equipped with every imaginal gadget and cooking item. It was clean and quiet and had a shady back patio with a small reflection pool. Then the owner moved to Seattle and had to sell the rental house…bummer.

Ever since then we have been trying to find a comparable house to re-live those days. Last year, we ended up renting a 2 story condo in a huge complex with 8 pools and massive lawns that required a team of gardeners to come and mow or blow every other day. There was no privacy and lots of noise from carpenters and maintenance people and loud tourists coming for weekend parties. The owner had only owned the condo for 2 years but in the fridge were bottles of condiments from 2008…yes…7 year old ketchup and mustard…delightful. The dishwasher looked like it had never been wiped or scrubbed out and the dishes had so many cracks in them we could not use them in the microwave. We ended up having to buy a new wet mop unit as the one there broke the first time I used it to mop the tiny kitchen. So after a month there, we vowed to find a better place next time.

This year we opted to have another go near the airport (this time on the north end) and golf course closer into town and the owner told us you could only hear airplanes in the distance and it had been a celebrity neighborhood. He has only owned it for 2 years and supposedly we are the first renters since the painting and upgrading has been done. OK…really looking forward to the extensive entertainment center, large music collection and game/library area…well-equipped kitchen, excellent WiFi …what we got was something very different.

To start with it is a corner house and the street on one side runs parallel with a busy highway a block away and locals use this 2 lane back road as a shortcut…cement trucks, school buses and huge semi trucks roll past the front door 24 hours a day.

Overhead departing flights arching toward the heavens are screeching over the back patio. I checked the airport website and they only list commercial departing flights with private Lear jets not being counted but seem to be equally interspersed with the big jets. The flights number 46 in a 12 hour period, so with private jets it can double to over 90 and then adding an extra 6 hours it can total to 145 flights every day from 6 am to 10 pm. OK, so the owner cannot control this volume but what he can control is the generous/misleading description of the interior of the house.

Let’s start with the iron…circa 1960 and a victim of being dropped on the tile floor a few times. I filled it with water for steam and it just ran out the bottom. Then, there is the toaster…I have seen better and cleaner ones at the thrift stores.


Let’s get to that extensive video/reading library and music/games/entertainment center described in his advert. So far we have found no music or player, 5 old DVD movies and boxes of adult games. The DVD player is attached to the wall mounted TV with a collection of wires and sockets all strategically/tastefully hidden behind a vase. The fast internet connection reminds me of the dial-up days from 15 years ago. The only way a celebrity would be near this neighborhood would be to be flying over it in his Lear Jet to or from a celebrity golf tournament.

P1040763   P1040764

Moving to the kitchen we have a dishwasher that has to be reset after every wash by going outside to the garage to re-set the circuit breaker to keep it from locking and lighting up all the control lights. You can see it is not actually attached to anything under the counter, just shoved under there at an angle.


The pots and pans are certainly not just 2 years old since the house was listed for rent. These puppies have been found in the clearance box at the nearest Goodwill shop. The Teflon coating has been artfully scrapped off from people using metal tools and the underside has enough food baked on, a mouse would  have a feast. How about cutlery…well there are 6 of each forks and knives and soup spoons but only 2 teaspoons. We found 4 small plates and 6 large ones and it makes you wonder how someone can advertise this place to accommodate 6-9 people? P1040767

So maybe you are thinking…bathrooms…how about those? Well, you know how you can pull the lever on the back of the faucet/tap to plug the sink? Well, forget that feature…P1040769

These new faucets were installed so close to the backsplash that the levers cannot be pulled up at all…nice. And in the tub, the older faucet does not even have a lever to pull (notice the hole)…it must have been broken off years ago and the drain plug that was attached to it is just left sitting on the side which would not really seal the tub from draining…nice and check out the corroded drain edge..


Usually rental properties come with a roll or two of toilet paper and I just had to photograph this paper. Have you even been able to read fine print through your paper?

I can…regular paper on the left and the rental paper on the right…even the smallest print is readable. Man this stuff would be good underneath sewing tricky fabrics like chiffon!P1040790

Oh, you might have noticed the scar on my index finger….

Before we arrived at our destination, I was rummaging through my overnight bag and my finger caught the edge of a new disposable razor that had lost it’s cover. It sheared off a layer of skin and there was blood all over the place. Now one week later you can see the length and width of the slash:P1040762   Classy so far, no? How about holes in the walls…just patch them and hang a picture over them…oops…maybe you want to rehang this one more to the right?

P1040768   The first night the owner told me to keep the floors clean and there would be supplies in the closet. I did find an old vacuum with the dust cup completely filled and this:

P1040788   It is supposed to be a Swiffer Wet Jet mop but most of the parts are missing and there is no pad on the bottom. I ended up buying a sponge mop so I could mop the tile floors as there are no carpets. One night after a bit of intoxication, I told Mr Mole that I should start a blog called VRBO-NO! or “Dumps I have stayed in” so people could submit their own experiences using this rental site.

Even though I have shared all the down sides of the house, it does have a nice backyard so that was the main reason for coming…to relax and read in peace with or without 100 jets flying overhead…ha ha.

Soon we will be heading home and in the weeks we have been here, the emails from brides have been stacking up and I know what is waiting for me…you can’t hide forever! Meanwhile my youngest daughter just moved to Washington, DC for a new job and she is awaiting the first big snow storm of the season in a basement apartment with her 2 cats… keeping my fingers crossed that her power does not get cut off!!!

Safe and happy sewing to all of you…stay warm!


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Trainwreck to Wearable

Some days I feel like Rod Serling of the Twilight Zone series back in the 1960’s where he opens each program with the statement, “Imagine, if you will…”

So, imagine if you will, a wedding dress created by a seamstress who uses her Disney costume making background as her qualifications to charge $500 for this dress:

5. too many issues6. barely closes

Now, if you have been following me for some time, you know that bust points and princess seams are never 5 inches apart and normal would be 8-10 +. So without a pattern this dress was whipped up without much regard for fitting well.

The unlined sleeves were gathered unto a very high armhole, the hips were too tight, the lining was 2 inches less in circumference than the dress and the lining hung 3 inches below the hem while the hem was 3 inches too short. Bad enough but the bride had asked for a high neck collar and removable lace bustle and tapered skirt. We did mange to zip up the center lapped zipper but the bride could not even take a breath. In the back photo, the original zipper was removed in preparation for an invisible one later.

To start with, outside there was a bump at the end of the zipper, so looking inside this is what caused it:1. lining bubble

You can see that the lining was attached after the zipper was stitched and just laid beside the teeth and double stitched over the first stitching adding lots of puckering. All stitching on this dress was double stitched using a 1.5 stitch length…really nasty to remove and leaving tracks in the satin.4. double stitched zipper69. damaged fabric

Armhole double stitching to be removed and lining tacked to bust points of satin…who does that?

7. armhole double stitching8. bustpoint lining tacked on

Looking inside we find rows of “shark’s teeth” seam allowances in lining and satin. Because the lining restricted the zipper from closing, I compared the circumferences and discovered the lining was over 2 inches smaller so all the vertical seams were let out as much as possible but avoiding more raveling as they were all unfinished.

10. all bust points11. comparing

Once all the layers were equalized, they were basted by hand on all edges before tackling the front panel. Another disturbing feature was the many black pencil marks on the seam lines.

19. neck and shoulder layers

In order to add a patch (to make a new pattern for a new panel) down the center front to widen the bust points to 8 inches, I had to stitch 2 vertical rows before cutting between them with pinking shears:

20. prepare to slash front panel22. front slashed

Let’s add a temporary white poly vertical patch and a new invisible zipper:

23. front patch 24. new invisble zipper basted

The new patch was too wide at the neckline so it was darted, overlapped and pinned and raised up (to accommodate a high collar) before cutting  new fronts of satin and lining fabric.27. cutting new panels 28. new front panels30. new panel

Even though there are tons of wrinkles still in the photo on the mannequin, on a real body they do mostly disappear.

You can see we are getting closer to fitting properly but the issue becomes the hem. A lace strip is proposed along with making the hem edge equal all around first and narrowing the skirt.31. taper side seams The wrinkles in the sleeves and back princess seams are due to the fact that they have not been dropped in the armhole, nor trimmed and pressed.

Did I fail to mention that this stiff satin fabric from JoAnn’s has a very strange vertical stretch like a knit so any vertical stitching causes the fabrics to grow? I believe it was from the Home Dec section and should have been used for drapes, pillows or to cover a headboard. The satin had no crosswise stretch and the poly lining had no stretch at all, so not too compatible to start with!

After measuring the hem and lining, the gathered lace strip was attached by hand:36. equal all around39. pinned front

The other issue was the lace bustle which had to be attached to a self covered 1.5 inch grosgrain ribbon belt:47. hand stitched

First the lace panel was zigzagged to the belt, then flipped and hand stitched on the top and bottom edge.48. zigzag stitched Five large snaps were attached to hold this bustle/back apron together tightly without drooping.

49. flipped and hand tacked51. safety pinned      57. try on53. front of belt

Then at the try-on, the lace bustle was trimmed to floor level.

What next? The high neck collar from a straight strip of the bustle lace. It has to go around a curve so the seam allowance had to be slashed to sit flat and a bias strip of lining attached to the inside seam allowance to cover the raw edges:

54. pinned collar 65. hand sew bias

To keep the 2 edges together at center back I used the hanging snap technique:67. hanging snap closure

Sleeves were repositioned lower in the armhole:56. lower sleeve

After all the seams were pressed flat and trimmed, the seams looked as good as they could and the bride was happy.She decided on the lace hem with no gathers.

Here is a photo of her although with her husband and others hugging her around the waist, it sure made lots of wrinkles. Don’t know what happened to the lace bustle…maybe it was attached later?sarah-2015-2

If you want to see over 60 photos taken during this transformation and 20 hours of labor I have created a Pinterest page to view them:

This was my last dress of 2015 before I closed the sewing room for a break.

Thank you for reading through all of this and I wish you happy sewing!

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End of Year Push

Holiday times and I was given a red sleeveless brocade lined dress, like a MOB dress, that had to have the shoulders shortened by 2 inches each…the woman did not bother to buy the petite version which would have fit her perfectly. So, I agreed to undo the entire shoulder seam and lining and shorten everything and also shorten the hem by 2 inches and the skirt lining and restitch the invisible zipper as it was torn away from the center back seam. Sorry, website photo is so small.54036314_6960

Since I had worked on her blue MOB dress before and shortened from the waist, I said it would take me 2 hours.1-back

So the day she came to pick up the dress she asked if it had given me any trouble and I just said…it always takes longer than you guesstimate with the lining and all. Then she tells me that, “I sew, and I could have done it myself but I thought I would LET you do it”. Sure you do, Honey, and next time you can just tackle it yourself, too.

Then, the phone rings, we are a week away from New Year’s Eve and the woman says, “You probably don’t remember me but you sewed on my daughter’s prom dress many years ago and I want you to do something for me”. OK, I say, what is it? Well, she says she has just purchased the most darling, darling halter dress online to wear to her own wedding on Jan 3 in the Bahamas but the hips are too tight and she wants me to work on it. I tell her that I am booked solid until Jan 1st and will be closing the studio until Feb 1.

Then she says, “well, if you won’t work on my dress, I will have to return it, I only want you to work on my dress.” I try to give her the name of another seamstress who can do it and assure her that this other woman is perfectly capable of letting out side seams and it would behoove her to at least see this woman and then decide for herself because there was no way I would take on this project even with threats.

Just to share what was hanging in my sewing room on Christmas Eve:Christmas-brides-2015

Five dresses were ready to be steamed and picked up and paid for.

Hoping all your new 2016 projects get off to a fabulous start after lots of measuring. I will be trolling through my patterns and stash to make up a few things for myself before the February brides show up. Did I mention that 15 brides have already called to save the slots for the new season? It is time to re-charge my batteries and brain!

Happy sewing everyone and thank you for following these sewing room tales and adding comments. I love hearing from all of you and the sharing of your own trials and clients’ demands!

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T-Shirt Perfection

Like you, if I am going to spend time cutting out and sewing a T-shirt, I want it to fit at least as well as, if not better than RTW.

You know after visiting numerous blogs with the proud sewers wearing their T-shirts, you can see drag lines up the wazoo. Oh yes, the comments are raving about how well the knit top looks without ever mentioning the drag lines where a bust dart could/should be or the sleeve cap being too short (my pet peeve). Even on Men’s RTW T-shirts you can see drag lines on the chest:creative-tshirt-design%20(22)

Next time you browse through the myriad of blogs bragging about their latest T-shirt pattern from yet another Indie “designer” really check out where those drag lines are and if the front rises up like this one…holy moley…even without boobs, it is unacceptable!

So, I set about to compare 2 Coni Crawford patterns…one Butterick 5215 1and one of Coni’s own label CS1207.4 The Butterick has 3 styles all with different amounts of ease and unless you measure them and measure yourself, you have no idea of which one to cut out.

I am so tired of reading blogs and reviews where the sewer says, “I cut a size 12 because I always cut a size 12 and it didn’t fit”…well isn’t that brilliant? Did they measure ANYTHING or themselves? I doubt it. Did they even stretch the fabric to see if it was a 4 way or had good recovery…maybe not.

Photos were taken before I cut the fabric so I knew what was being offered and it had to come close to a RTW top I have that fits well (loose) for my work. There is a new Pinterest page showing all the steps I went through to get to the point of cutting BEFORE cutting.

While View B of CS 1207 came closest to the desired measurements, it was sleeveless and had a square neckline so I moved on to the View A of CS 1207 knowing that the 2 extra inches in the bust would be removed and possibly the hip area too. If you CLTL (cut large, trim later) you at least have something to work with instead of a wadder that is too snug.


So you may say you don’t want to go through all those stages…so don’t…keep cutting that size 12 no matter whether it is from the Big 4 or some wild-eyed Indie blogger who wants to charge you $20 for a basically un-tested pattern.

If you have a cup size larger than a “D”, I wish you good luck in getting a flat front pattern to reach across your chest without bulk under your armpit, and not make drag lines and/or rise up in the center front and expose your waist.

Measuring the RTW item you want to duplicate makes sense too, so let’s do it…Total bust 46″ and total length 25″:


Bicep 16″and total hip 51″ :


Upper chest 15.5″ and shoulder width 4″ :


I have seen designers avoid using darts in knits by tugging excess fabric up towards the shoulder or down towards the side seam as has been the common rule, but I have no problem adding an armhole dart (especially in a print knit) because that is where I needed it. Also the back side seams are “slipped”  1/2 inch as the front ones are moved over to be more flattering. I did not include photos of “truing up” the side seams but they will be equal in length and curve on the paper pattern later.38

Trying on the garment along the way to check for gaps and drag lines before the sleeves are attached. You can see the horizontal lines are parallel with the floor, no riding up and all I added was the armhole dart. Please excuse the center photo with the twisting, it makes it look like the side seam is at an angle which it is not.


Adding the dart on the paper and re-measuring the armhole front and back with the large Curve Runner tool.


Selecting the sleeve to match the armhole dimensions:49

If you cut the sleeve the same size as the bodice, you may need to drop it down a size or two after basting and trying it on as in this photo:50

The side seams were also taken in from the waist to hips. This fabric was so soft and stretchy that like many knits, it tended to “grow” during the handling and trying on so the seams needed to be taken in a little more than usual. The side seams at the bust are curved on all Coni’s patterns for ease and the best fit so if your T-shirt pattern is straight, maybe you would want to add that subtle curve.

Here is how I compare patterns by stacking. I eventually used the CS 1207 with the thicker white paper on the bottom. Did I think about making a muslin? No, because I have measured every aspect of all the patterns and the RTW top and the only variable is the drape of this poly knit once it is on my body and I can pin and tweak it to fit better.13

The altered sleeve and dart before the neck binding:


Comparing the finished garment with the RTW you can see the back neckline is higher for my rounded back and the sleeves are 2 inches longer…hooray! Thanks, Coni!


So now I have a pattern ready for the next time I use a poly knit like this one.

If you have time please visit the Pinterest page to see more of the steps, as I did not want to include/bore the pants off you with all 50+ photos here.

I want to thank Alethia for her recent link to the resurgence of US made garments:

Happy New Year Everyone!


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Simple Dresses for Hawaii

When you mention simple wedding gown…what comes to mind?


How about an unlikely place as the Sundance Catalog?

This Sundance ivory dress is so light weight and comes with a silk bias slip and only needs the side seam taken in a bit to fit perfectly.P1200191You can see the empire seaming in front,  diagonal skirt seams all around and the straight seams in back. And for around $235 she has a perfect comfortable wedding dress to wear in Hawaii.

Another simple dress is this one:wtoo-basha-15725-wedding-dress-beaded-bodice-soft-net-skirt-sweep-train-01.1596


This bride was in a rush to get married so she bought off the sample rack and while it looks like it should fit well, it doesn’t. The bride is very long waisted and the dress bodice is short-waisted so the top sits lower than it should and she feels her small breasts are not covered well enough. I gave her some flat bust pads to help fill the vacancy but she still felt the top edge of the dress flared away from her chest.

She was adamant that I could not alter the dress in any way like taking it in at the back zipper (my favorite) so I did the only thing I could think of…get out my roll of 1/4 inch twill tape and start snugging up the top edge inside.P1200092

If you have ever eased twill tape into the roll line of a jacket, you will get this. The tape is anchored at one end and pinned down along the curve. Then trim the end and remove the pins. Re-pin and slightly pull and pin along the way to ease in one inch of the cup. Then both long edges of the tape are hand stitched down and voila’ …cups that curve towards the chest instead of away from it:P1200093

Then the train had to be cut off and the satin layers hemmed and on the last fitting, the mother showed up. She grabbed the center back of the zipper at the waist seam and shouted at me, “YOU have to do something” to make it tighter while the girl was shouting, “NO NO NO”. I backed away and let them battle it out saying that I would do anything they wanted but it had to be decided between the two of them. It was a real fight with neither of them giving in.



Finally, I offered to attach a grosgrain ribbon waist stay to snug up the waist seam to keep it tight against the girl’s waist and high enough not to slide down (finger’s crossed!). They both relented and said I could do it…Whew! Here is what I added inside:P1200192P1200194  Hopefully, this will suffice and satisfy each one of them as the bride walks along the shoreline in Hawaii. Although when the bride was demonstrating to me that she wanted to fling her arms in all directions like the YMCA song, I had to caution her that she would be the demure star for the day. It was no use telling her to picture herself like Princess Grace Kelly or Jackie O on their wedding day!

In contrast, here is a very elaborate wedding/ball gown from the Carole Tanebaum Vintage collection of photos:ballgown

It just takes your breath away! Or this from AislePerfect.

Anyone know how to crochet?

terryanthony10 aisle perfect

Wishing you all a perfect week filled with love and candies and seasonal treats. Here at Mole Central….mincemeat tarts have been filling up Mr. Mole quite nicely. I send blessings and best wishes for the season of joy and peace to you all.


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