Nancy has returned to town to try on her latest jacket Butterick 6421.
After all the alterations from the last time you can see there are still a few tweaks to do to make it fit better. The front view looks ok and the neckline will be lowered one inch and the shoulder seam nearest the neck will be snugged up and a shoulder pad added. Even though the sleeve was moved in, it could stand to be moved a little more.
The side view shows the drag lines ponting towards the upper back so you all know what that means don’t you? Yes, we are in for some slashing and adding some horizontal patch of gingham. Shoulder pads will also help. The length is now jacket length instead of coat length.
Considering this is the “before” photo with pins everywhere the result is closer to fitting below:
The added gingham wedges give her just the right amount of ease to sit down without grabbing. Even though the muslin fabric is crispy, the eventual wool fabric will flatter her and hang nicely.
Maybe you are wondering what my own Chanel jacket looks like…well, I will give you a sneak peak into the beginnings of laying out the fabric and lining and using the deconstructed muslin as the pattern in class. Here are the muslin pieces placed right side up and cut as singles, no folds. The sleeves will be cut out later. Every seam allowance has has 1.5 inches added.
A blurry photo of the lining also cut using the wool and muslin as the template.
Every night I took my pieces back to my hotel room to hand sew them together for the next day. There was so much thread tracing and diagonal hand stitching to keep the lining attached to the wool on every section. We used Japanese basting thread in different colors.
Back in the classroom the next day with the lining hand attached and also machine quilted ready to have the sleeves pinned on.
Here are the sleeves lined by hand and curving nicely. The grainlines were tweaked to give that curve.
You can see the new green grainlines and the dotted quilting lines for the upper sleeves.
Thank you for following along with this project. Next time more tweaking of the bodice and steaming out excess fabric. It truly was an adventure for 6 days of 9-5 working and learning.
Mr. Mole survived without me and mastered the washing machine and dryer while Nadine went into a deep cat depression and stuck to him at all times in his lap.
It’s so good to be back home and able to work on my jacket in the peace and quiet.