Here is a classic wedding gown from Casablanca.
So, it makes a seamstress wonder why a dart has to be added to eliminate the excess fabric here:
The bride has plenty of her own breasts and we added push up cups as well and there was still a problem. I have done this alteration before and it is way easier than it looks when this type of lace in involved. Let’s begin:
Thread trace the proposed dart and remove the pins.
Make sure the dart legs are equal in length (3 inches). Measure the dart width (1.5 inches).
Thread trace the final stitching line and remove the lace from the tulle…gently! Peel the lace back to reveal the fabric.
Map out the back side with pins and see that the dart point ends right up against the boning…rats! Pin out the darts and make sure not to catch any lace parts. Trim off any excess.
Before machine stitching, hand baste and double check everything is out of the seam! Remove any excess lace parts.
Once machine stitched, start to flip the lace edges back over the new seam/dart.
Hand tack the inside darts to the lining. I never cut off any fabric as the next seamstress may need it! Finished dart, not invisible but looks like an original design of the dress.
What’s left? Shorten the straps and, of course, the bustle needs some designing and stabilizing as all that heavy lace will not be safe attached to just 2 layers of satin charmeuse. Here is where the engineering hat comes in handy…I needed something long and wide and strong enough to hold a train and 3 buttons and loops….hmmmm
If you stitch 2 lengths of 2 inch wide grosgrain ribbon together and hand sew that to the tail of the zipper and the lining and use backer buttons…it might just work but the bride has to try it on to make sure the new ribbon does not show through.
So, the test shows that even when just pinned into place, the ribbon structure holds and does not show…the only things that show are the 2 ribbons used to hang the train from the plastic hanger…see them under the bustle? They will get tacked up for sure!
This week one bride picks up her dress and 4 new brides arrive for their first fitting. Have to be grateful though, only 6 brides for June with 8 brides for July…more fun and blog posts to come!
Happy sewing everyone…enjoy the weather, sit in the sun and plan your next project!