Well after a very long weekend of hemming pants and linings I look forward to a switching gears a little to making custom pants for 2 clients.
Both have figure
problems challenges and for different reasons. Women come in so many different sizes and shapes and the trick is to figure out where they need extra fabric to cover extra fatpads protrusions (like me and half my clients) and where they need less fabric because of a drooping flat butt and thin legs (perfect for tight jeans and the rest of my clients).
But one woman who has been making patterns her whole professional life addresses this challenge and has a whole line of patterns that work for most bodies. In fact when women come to me with fabric and a pants pattern, I use Coni Crawford patterns instead because they just plain fit better. The side seams hang straight and the crotch depth and curves work.
The pattern sizing is broken down into XS-XL and XXL to 6X with very precise measurements on the envelope and also on the individual paper pattern pieces. I would bet that most women fall into these 2 categories and would be very pleased with the results.
Her construction instructions starting with how to insert a zipper for a mock fly front just make all other patterns confusing.
Last year our local American Sewing Guild had Coni come to present a 3 day seminar of fitting and pattern work and it was hands-down the best program we were fortunate enough to have!
So this week I am making 2 “muslins” or mock-ups with her pattern for 2 clients. One will be made in a polyester test fabric and the other out of plain cotton ivory muslin fabric to test the fit. I may get to take photos to show you later.
But a blog insert would not be complete with a small complaint and this week it is HANGERS. I get all types of clothes in every day and you would not believe the things people transport their nice clothes in. This year I had one bride bring in a silk wedding dress stuffed in a book bag, another had a huge beaded wedding dress stuffed into a gym bag but mostly women stuff fine wool pants into old plastic grocery bags. So then as these garments are removed and tried on and pinned, the next
huge irritation problem is whether they should be hung or folded. Of course less than 30% of the clients bring their own hangers but what they don’t think about is after the seamstress works on the clothes they are usually steamed and hung up to dry to keep the front creases or hem edge etc.
I keep a collection of plastic hangers in my room just for this purpose but when the client comes to collect the clothes they don’t bring hangers either so I remove my hangers from the clothes and give them to the client at which time they actually stuff these neatly pressed garments back into some old plastic bag and toss them in the back seat of the car. It can be disheartening to see this but people do tell you who they really are by their actions and comments as you have seen from my previous blogs.
Seamstresses are NOT the dry cleaners. We do not provide free wire hangers. We press our work and respect it in the hopes that you do too. And when we call to tell you that your clothes are ready we would like them to be picked up within a reasonable amount of time…NOT 30 days later. We are NOT a storage facility. It is ironic too that the garments that were labeled “rush” or identified as “I need it this weekend because I am flying to…” are the last ones to be retrieved….ha ha…but I won’t get started on that feature today.
So next time you drop off some item of clothing to be altered, PLEASE PLEASE bring it on a hanger and save your seamstress some grief.
Wishing you a week of fun and finding things all come together without much fuss…fingers crossed!