Tale of 2 Jackets

Well this week starts out with the usual wedding garments but I have 2 very different ones to share.

The first one is one I have made before using the exact material featured on the envelope.

Amy Butler sells her fabric along with her patterns and this one called “Liverpool” can be made in floral or plaid.

  What you cannot see in the photo are 4 huge vertical darts in the front along with a side bust dart and 2 huge vertical darts in the back for shaping along with attached ties and cuffs with loops…OK let’s say it has the works along with a 2 piece stand up collar and loads of top stitching including the darts. Making it in floral hides lots of these features (some totally unnecessary) but when made in a plaid linen EVERYTHING shows up and wants it’s own way. Here are some thumbnails of the almost done jacket:

     Since my mannequin is not small enough for this project as the client is smaller than the XS in the pattern please bare with me. The front darts were sewn down but have been released as they pulled way too much and looked nasty. The 2 top pins are the placement of the first button on the band and will have 5  buttonholes and buttons later. The sleeves are convertible and can be worn long or rolled up once or twice. There is a shaped 5 inches of fabric in the hem. There are also 6 inch side vents .

The back had a 1 inch sway back alteration and more shaping with taking in the waist area on the center back seam. It fits well but needs to have more taken out of both side seams and hemming.

The second jacket is totally different. I made one of these last month for my client who loves this sort of thing and says she “lives in them” during the summer so I have more fabric like this in a bag in my other sewing room just waiting to appear. The first attempt at this pattern Vogue 2779 was in a polyester chiffon since it was less dangerous than cutting into the silk yardage. It had it’s own challenges and I battled with the hemming of all the edges and finally got out my straight stitch needle plate and accompanying foot from Janome. I also used a 70 microtec needle and the big idea was using embroidery cotton in top and bobbin to make the turn over line. I stitched 1/2 inch from the edge, trimmed to 1/4 inch and then used the cotton stitching line as the turning edge to pin down and then stitch again on top 1/4 inch from the edge. The cool thing was…NO PUCKERING!

So armed with this knowledge and confidence I tackled the next fabric and same pattern Vogue 2779:

  The jacket was modified the first time to be only 27 inches long in the back and the sleeves were kept to a 3/4 length.

This fabric was silk and very loosely woven with huge swathes of solid furry satin chunks which when folded under or stitched were just ornery! As I stitched along merrily thinking this would be easy-peasy the next thing I know the foot is balking at jumping unto the furry bits and extra thickness and stops making perfect stitches….then the swear words start emerging. The added other feature to this fabric is that as you sew in any direction it starts to “lettuce edge” itself….great….well I am going to have to pass that off as an added couture feature won’t I?

Here are the results with basted in sleeves:

      While the motifs turned out with nice placement you can see those sections of satin waves that were the problem child. They also have made during the weaving process puckered sections that do not hang evenly with the rest of the silk. All in all it does add some quirkiness to the jacket and totally unlike the first plain poly chiffon.

Now that I know the bonus/frustrating features of this particular fabric I hope/fingers crossed that the next similar one will be a breeze.

Wishing you very few problems in your sewing room this week!

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2 Responses to Tale of 2 Jackets

  1. Alethia says:

    You have been a quite busy…I love the grey top!

  2. Pingback: From Panties to Parkas | fit for a queen

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