So in a past post I ragged on how badly the Liberty shirt fit and hung away from the body unless the fabric was really drapey and the model had a flat chest. Some of you wrote privately to ask
/throw down the gauntlet what I would do if I was making it for myself. Always up for a challenge, I marched myself and said pattern into my “annex” (second sewing room with cutting tables and duct tape dummy) and did a “tissue fit”. You will see pink lines pointing to the real issues in the paper pattern:
I like to slash the pattern back first and then work forward. OK…let’s do it:
So what have I done? Pinned out the excess to remove bulk which will all be consolidated into one dart later. Now the center front hangs perpendicular to the floor… well almost. One thing is left…let’s slash across the bust and drop it to come back towards the waist.
Ahhhh that feels so much better doesn’t it? Now let’s pin the pieces together and see what we’ve got.
We are getting closer to a better fit and to me straight grain lines, no drag lines and flat fronts and backs are worth every minute of time.
Now the paper pattern is spread flat on the cutting table to move darts, and examine the final product before cutting a muslin:
A small neck dart is added to keep the center back fold straight and make the rounded back fit well. Only one side front dart is needed. Can you see the difference in the back piece from the front piece? Holy Moley! Now that is some swing out, Sister!
You can see what had to be done to get the paper to cover a real woman’s body. One question is left…the front armhole has been reduced and it will be re-shaped along with the sleeve that attaches there but just getting the 2 main pieces to lay flat and curve properly is Step One…now the question is: can you do this? Heck yes…it is only paper and a muslin will run about $3 to make so before I go cutting into some real lovely fabric I’m doing a test.
If you know your body or have a duct tape dummy you can fine tune and whack away until that latest
/not necessarily flattering fashion pattern will fit well, hang straight and COMPLIMENT what is going on underneath it. The goal is not always to wear a bag over the top and call it “good”.
I have a client who is large but she has the most dainty thin arms that were being hidden in all the excess of fabrics with dolman sleeves, dropped shoulder affairs etc until I told her we should try a Coni Crawford blouse to show off her real nice arms under a thinner fitted sleeve and make a blouse with a princess seam instead of just more mounds of fabric hanging there…instant weight loss!