Custom Coni Crawford #2

Let’s start with a pattern I fell in love with a year ago…cut it out on my 2 week escape in Jan 2012 and finally found some time to finish it (along with 2 others in different colors) just this week of Sept 2012. Since I have a huge stash of linen and detest the way linen is worn most times…all baggy and saggy and covering the wearer so badly as to make her look pregnant, I thought this Coni Crawford pattern Butterick 5504 would be flattering.


It features a drawstring cord waistband which I changed to a 1 inch non-roll elastic fold-over.

The linen pockets when cut at such a diagonal angle really don’t want to lie flat against the body so 1/4 inch elastic was added in a small tunnel between the lining and the outside fabric.

Then once the elastic was inserted and a second row of top stitching done I pulled one inch of it out to ease it back towards the body.

The pocket lining was cut from silky polyester so as to not add bulk to the thigh area…who needs that? And besides what do women cram into their pockets anyway?

Since I work on lots of really crappy stretched out linen center back seams in RTW pants, the right thing to do was to reinforce that seam from the beginning with 1/4 twill tape.

You can see the tape ended just where the top waistband fold-over will be…again who needs the bulk?

The center front seams down the center of each leg were top stitched in 2 pair of the pants to highlight that area as called for in the pattern. At some point it would be cool to have a pair of these shorts made in denim and use gold jeans thread and to taper the legs a little or add a vent at the side seam hem…lots of possibilities if one has time to think instead of crank out wedding dresses like a mad woman.

So what do these shorts look like after the tweaking???

You can see with very little changes other than the elastics added, these fit perfect right out of the envelope. I love Coni pants! They seem to fit every client using the hip measurement and did you notice the perfectly straight hanging side seams? Wonderful…no tugging and twisting to the front or back…what a dream!

All of Coni’s pattern hang straight and have a very nice crotch depth and curve and as the sizes get large the center back seam rises on the paper pattern to increase the length needed for sitting down without exposing one’s panties. Other pattern companies try to make this adjustment by adding to the crotch seam where it joins the inside legs…what do they call that junction? Va Jay Jay Junction?

So fellow sewers…do yourself a favor this week…find this pattern or any other Coni pants pattern from her website or Butterick website or a JoAnn’s near you and get cutting for the best pair of late summer shorts you can wear!

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8 Responses to Custom Coni Crawford #2

  1. Clare S. Lavorgna says:

    They look nice and seem to fit nicely as well. I too hate it when pockets gape – good idea with the elastic at the top of the pocket to draw it in. I personally love pockets because I’m always carrying my cell phone. I wil check out this pattern when Butterick goes on sale. Just purchased a Butterick yest. at Hancock’s for a client’s blouse and it was $18.99 less 40% discount. Still a lot for a pattern!!! Clare Lavorgna in Lafayette, LA (where we could wear linen all year long!!!)

  2. mrsmole says:

    Hey Clare…nice of you to drop in and comment. I looked up Lafayette,_Louisiana….wow described as sub-tropical…linen is the answer for sure. You must have been getting some rain from Hurricane Issac? Have you noticed all of a sudden patterns have increased in price so much so that the higher priced ones are never on the 99 cent sales promotions?

  3. Elle Ce says:

    As I just happen to have this pattern in my stash, I really enjoyed this post. Next spring when I have reached my goal weight and am super model thin, I will make these and follow your suggestions. Then I will do a post about it, telling the world that you are amazing. Thank you.

    • mrsmole says:

      The cool thing is Elle, you don’t have to be a stick thin model as the pattern covers all sizes up to 6X. Being a looser fitting pant I was able to go down a size so that made me thrilled too. Hooray for your continuing weight loss! Using thick linen was a real challenge as it adds pounds and will not lie flat like a thinner nicer fabric so the pocket edges had to be tamed. Thanks for checking in!

  4. theresa says:

    How funny! I hadn’t read your blog before I headed over for a date with a girlfriend today in K-Falls and ended at the JA’s there. They are moving, so all their patterns are on sale for $1.99, all companies. I picked up a couple CC patterns, the pants B5222 and vest/jacket/pants B5473. I also ordered a CC last week. Can’t remember the number but it’s the blouse with the sweet shoulder tucks at the front yoke. I looked at this pattern too figured I had something similar with the 5473. BTW, they look fabulous!

  5. mrsmole says:

    Lucky you scoring some pattern deals! Thank you for your compliment…how many times have we made muslins of pants only to toss them in the trash no knowing where or what to adjust? Coni uses real women to fit her patterns and if you ever get a chance to attend a seminar you will learn so much about why her patterns based on commercial ones just plain work better.

  6. Penny Costal says:

    Thanks for the great tips/ tricks. I need to find this pattern, hopefully at out new JoAnn’s In Grants Pass!!

  7. mrsmole says:

    Hopefully your new store won’t be 75% crafts and 25% polar fleece!!!! I hope you have some nice fabric in your stash for these pants along with all the quilting cotton!

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