Some days a seamstress promises her client she can do the job without ever realizing that it is something she should have said “no thanks” to…this is one of those projects.
We all know what full or double pleats look like from the front and assume they look the same from the back only in the reverse…right? So if someone asks if you can let a couple out to gain more ease it should not be that tough…right?
But what happens to your grand plans when you flip the lining up and see this? That’s right, the part that is supposed to be there has been cut and serged away (I imagine to reduce bulk) leaving only a scant 1/2 seam beneath that strip. Now this is the client’s old time favorite wool skirt and it comes with a reversible scarf/shawl with pockets…even more precious as a duo act.
ALL she needs is 2 inches more to fit around her. There are over 8 faux double pleats to open up and all I can manage to get is 1/8 inch (1/4 inch total) from 8 of them. They are stitched down to a certain point aka the hips and then also stitched across to hold everything flat inside (lots of deconstruction time here!). Oh yes, there is a lining with a curved top facing that will have to be altered as well but it has no pleats. (Thank God for small mercies!)
Once every pleat is hand basted and re-stitched there is the little strip of twill tape to be pinned and re-attached to the wrong side to keep the waist from stretching. Here is the end of the facing that will need a panel of new lining (notice it is cut off grain) attached:
Let’s open up the lining side seam and fill the gap with a new strip of lining: Notice the odd shape- 2 inches at the top and 6 inches at the bottom…is this a problem? Nah…let’s get out that ruler and chalk and draw that shape with seam allowances.
Now with Ambiance rayon lining piece cut and ready to go, attach it: Once pressed and pleats steamed inside and out we have the finished product…2 inches bigger and no one will know what went into this transformation…except you and me!
Next time – some dance costumes made from scratch and a little break from the sewing room. I’m hoping that January gets all of you itching to start new projects or at least re-organize/
clean out Christmas boxes and wrappings from your sewing room or visit your stash and patterns for ideas.
Still reading the new book Overdressed and understanding what a holy mess the fashion industry is in and why we should continue to make quality clothes at home that will outlive the RTW ones made cheaply…but the book report will be coming as per Anne’s request!