This week has been insane with more June brides wandering in for “simple” alterations which turn out to be 4-5 hour affairs so I thought I would share some before I delve into the mysterious
/misleading world of pattern grading.
Enter the swimmer bride…she is a health nut and works out and she like many others bought her dress on Ebay from a company in China that makes dresses for $120-300. The tall Asian models on the webpages look absolutely gorgeous in the dresses so she thought she would too. She said they ask for your measurements to assure a perfect fit/toss in the trash can and then send you the dress in a neatly wrapped package/vacuum sealed with all the air removed flat as a pancake with wrinkles almost permanent. So, I asked, “is that what you did, send them your measurements?” “No”, she replied, “I am a perfect 10 so that is what I ordered”. Here is what she got:
The train is very long and it will require 5 points to get it up off the ground as well as the satin skirt needing the same amount as it is separate and shorter all around. Now let’s check out the back…I have it on my mannequin as it was way too graphic on the body:
Just a slight problem. You can see this is corset time for sure!!! This will add $120 to the price along with the 10 pick-up points for the bustles. You can see the different colored safety pins marking the top points which match the same colored pins below so I can keep track of all of them/
keep from screaming. Let’s see the solution:
First make the loop sections…pin, pin, pin and then stitch, stitch, stitch: Then attach to the dress and add a modesty panel with 2 rows of boning horizontally. I backed the panel with cotton pocket lining from Wawak as it will be cooler on the inside and stiffen the satin fabric that shows
. And did I fail to mention that this dress is also 12 inches too long and I will have to remove the front scalloped lace to raise hem higher? Yes, this is one fine internet dress…$300 worth of alterations will make it wearable and memorable.
Now, let’s see what Vogue 8791 patterns has come up with to fit our bodies. Here are some frightening Google images! I cut out this pattern back in January when I had 2 weeks off and never got back to it until I tried it on basted and discovered it was way too big after cutting my normal size…so I broke down and backtracked and took it apart and laid the pattern pieces all stacked up to reveal the difference between the smallest to largest. Here is what I found, now remember this pattern says it has cup sizes from A-D. This is what I needed to use as the new seam line.
Here is what I do normally on my back patterns, slash and spread and make a dart if the center back is a fold. Please click on the photo for a clearer look and follow the sequence. Here is what I have to trim away to make it fit although I will keep the longer length in the waist. While this looks complicated since it is a princess line, it just fits so much better if you put in the effort. If your pattern does not have a straight center back fold you can allow the back seam to curve and not add the neck dart.
Next time I hope to have the tunic pattern for my client all adjusted and ready for you to see what I did to add where the gingham was pinned…but this week it has been very difficult to manage everything…7 brides for June…too much!
Before I get back to this sea of ivory I wanted to share a site that will send you daily uplifting quotes from writers and famous people from around the world from all religions and philosophies: www.gratefulness.org/word/index.htm