New Muslin

Yes, it is time for my model client to try a new top…this time from Decades of Style 4005 “Girl Friday” from the 1940’s collection. thumbnail.ashxThree women on Pattern Review made it and have commented on the results.

You know I love checking out how well notches match up and whether circles stack as well so let’s start with the actual pattern measurements:

I cut the largest size which is for a

46 inch bust- actual finished bust= 51 inches,ย  (6 inches of ease)

40 inch waist- actual finished waist = 41 inches,ย  (1 inch of ease)

49 inch hips- actual finished hips = 47.5ย  (loss of 1.5 inches)

So if you were hoping for a flattering fit…maybe this is not for you. Do check out the photos from the PR gals and decide for yourself. The hip area right away will be a problem being smaller than the actual given numbers and smaller than a client.

Let’s get to the paper part:16-front-patternmeasured-pattern

Now let’s try to match up the 3 collars…remember to spot the circles and notches!

13-laying-out-to-match-up14-laying-out-straight7-adding-new-markings I added new circles and notches just so the collars had something to align with. The bottom notch on the front is supposed to be the end of the collar although my paper collars do not have their seam allowances trimmed away so it is anyone’s guess as to what the last notch signifies. Here is the photo of the collars stacked before trimming:10-collars-not-trimmed One marking, a bow tie, did not line up:4-not-matching-bow-ties but the boxes did stack:3-matching-boxes 2-back-of-collars The back side of the collars shows that they are not all attached to center front…only the main collar is attached, the rest have to be sewn to it with decorative stitching or they flap around.12-collars-flat

The back collar looks stressed and tight:9-back-neck-collar The front collars are trimmed:11-trimmed-collars

Now all I need is my faithful client/model who will visit for the try-on and to pick up her finished linen jacket…more photos and fun to come!

I did write to the pattern company to say,

I am making your blouse pattern 4005 for a client and I see that the 3 collars have notches and small circles that should line up or at least stack…the top and middle collar sort of stack with the small circle but the last lower collar neither matches with the notches nor the small circle. I am guessing it is supposed to be spaced like the first 2?

and they wrote back, ” that is right. Sorry for the confusion.”

So my friends…another usual reply from a pattern company…normally I get “Just cut it larger” from Peggy Sagers, or “You must have one of the earlier versions” from Louise Cutting but never an apology or correction…in other words…Tough Titty, Mrs Mole. I have given up dealing with Indygo Junction and their total lack of notches and extra short or non-existent facings but at least they have a correction page.

This week involves 2 more “emergency” brides being added to the stack of the 13 brides that have to be done by the end of August…where are those good fairies? At least the weather has dropped for 101 down to 90…yippee! Next time more goodies and tips and tricks for bustles!

A final outrageous comment from a new bride…she asks me “How many brides do you have who leave here crying because their dresses did not turn out like they wanted?”

After I chocked back a WTF in my throat, I said, “well, they do leave here crying some days but with tears of joy because they could never have imagined how nice they looked from what they brought in”.

Some brides have their own set of “cojones” and leave their good sense outside along with their shoes.

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46 Responses to New Muslin

  1. you are a better lady than me if you managed to keep your WTF in your throat ———-

    • mrsmole says:

      These stupid comments are always fodder for this blog…and they never stop coming! Maybe I am more “seasoned” but not better.

  2. I’m afraid that would be one bride I wouldn’t be able to accomodate…sorry, not sorry! Best of luck with all your brides! Hope the good ones FAR outweigh the bad!

  3. eumoronorio says:

    I was so torn between this 3 collar shirt and their wrap blouse with huge sleeves. I went with the wrap. I am curious to see how this company’s pattern sews up, though their drafting seems to be lacking…

  4. Monique says:

    You need to have good sense (and some manners) in the first place, in order for it to be left outside. ๐Ÿ™‚
    May you have strength and enough time to deal with your load!

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Monique, maybe I was giving her more credit than she was due…ha ha! her other comment was “Can you tell I am a professional athlete?” Meaning her body was thin…I told her no matter, her left shoulder was lower than her right and it showed up in her lace dress as sloping…she said “That is not possible, it cannot be me”…score one for Mrs Mole.

  5. Shams says:

    Wow, just wow. What an outrageously b*thchy, passive aggressive comment from that bridezilla.

    I have long admired that blouse pattern. Customer-service-wise, I find Style Arc to be the best.

  6. Marsha says:

    I just don’t see this pattern as being flattering on someone with your client’s measurements (and I say that as someone who used to have similar measurements). But everyone has different ideas of what’s flattering.
    Three collars! I have enough trouble getting one collar to lie straight. May the goddess of sewing be with you!

  7. metoosewsnh says:

    Your posts have brought so many smiles. I too work with altering ,brides/prom/special occasion and I must say your humor and ‘on target’ comments make me feel connected. Thank you for taking the time to point out so many awesome peculiarities to patterns, construction and temperament.. hugs!

  8. BeaJay says:

    Interesting looking top. Glad you are persevering through their errors. I off to PR to check it out.

  9. Pella says:

    I do like the collars, who does check the patterns before sale I wonder. Of the Bride comment, how did you keep your cool? Or will you make sure her dress is a sob-worthy one, a misplaced dart, a wonky neckline, uneven hem, a bulging hipline? Too tempting.

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Pella, I do the reverse…kill them with kindness and guess what? They will be my best referral base! Nine times out of ten they will refer a very sweet girl who is nothing like them and will appreciate good work and time spent…it all balances out. After 40 years of working with clients you have to adopt an attitude that they ALL think they are special especially the brides so they will say whatever comes out of their mouths even though the brain is not engaged. When they insist I take in more of the side seams to be tighter and tighter and I know this will show a tummy bulge, I pin it out and do what they want…if on the wedding day they look fluffy…it was their choice!

  10. Cindy says:

    I always love when the bride thinks there is a problem with the dress and it turns out that they are just uneven. I’ve stood behind many a girl that thinks we need to order them a new dress because it’s uneven across the top, I just place my hands on their shoulders and give them a great visual in the mirror of how uneven their shoulders really are. How do they not notice it until I show them?

    • mrsmole says:

      If only bridal gowns came with shoulders and sleeves so we could shove small shoulder pads inside to balance out the bride…at least we can balance out the boobs with padding! Do you tell all the brides that their dress will look better with tight underpants? Even the skinny girls should be wearing some support as these are formal garments that require good undergarments…not just a pink thong or no thong at all!

      • Cindy says:

        Amazing how many of them can not seem to grasp the concept of actually wearing the undergarments for the fitting that they plan on wearing the day of the wedding. I’m especially fond of the bra with straps ( a.k.a.the one they wore to work) that they walk out of the dressing room wearing, I know it has straps because the dress is of course STRAPLESS! It is just like the one they are going to wear for the wedding (NOT!!!) It will have the same amount of padding and of course no straps . It could not possibly change the way the dress will fit or the way the girls will hang, could it?!?

      • mrsmole says:

        Ha ha…I even tell them over the phone to bring their undergarments and shoes that will be the most like they will be wearing but out comes the red bra and pink thongs and oopsie…I forgot my shoes at home…can’t you still pin up the hem and bustle and just pretend I am wearing 2 inch heels? Oh and did she mention that she just started some PX90 exercise regime and joined a gym and will drop 20 pounds by the wedding date so the dress will have to be really tight?

      • Cindy says:

        They hear the undergarment and shoe speech at least twice, when we make the appointment and when we call to confirm the appointment and still can’t seem to manage to bring them with them. We also let them know that payment is due at the fitting…”YOU MEAN ALTERATIONS AREN”T FREE!!” even though they’ve also been told that at least twice once when we make the appointment and then when called to confirm and possibly a third time by their consultant while picking their dress. I think maybe those things on the side of their heads are just so they have somewhere for their earrings.

  11. prttynpnk says:

    I’m glad you are blazing a trail with this pattern- I’ve drooled on it a good bit, but gotten cold feet. I think it’s companies with poor markings and no explanations that keep some of us sewists from getting past a certain skill level- I would have just assumed I didn’t understand how to do it.
    Would it be wrong for your husband to man a bridal tranquilizer gun station during fittings?

    • mrsmole says:

      Other than a huge long neck dart which is supposedly hidden under the 3 collars, it has no shaping features except for 2 front tucks. The fabrics suggests give no indication that it will lay flat so it is a crap shoot over what fabric to use…we will see as my client gave me a large bag of beautiful ones!

      • prttynpnk says:

        Ooh- they arrive bearing gifts- this gets better and better!

      • mrsmole says:

        My model/client always brings bags of fabric….but they are for future projects and I can only drool over them as she travels and has the fun of selecting and purchasing lovely things! She doesn’t need a tranquilizer dart to be normal like the rest! Hubby watches the brides come up the path from his office window and can almost assess their nature by the way they walk…he’s a real good body reader.

  12. Thank you for your honest comments on the pattern. Too often I find the reviews on PR to be lacking in details and honesty. I have struggled to understand incorrect directions, diagrams that don’t match the written directions, or pieces that just don’t match. The reviewers will make comments like ” Oh, I didn’t even read the directions”. If that’s the case – don’t review it!

    I don’t know how you continue to smile at all your Bridzillas. You are surely a better person than I.

    • mrsmole says:

      Some of those reviews make it sound like the garment went together by itself! Who always has the most perfect fabric melded with the perfect pattern and perfect instructions? I’d rather hear “It was a bitch but I conquered it”…ha ha Thanks for reminding me!

  13. Bunny says:

    Aaacckkk! Numerous WTFs flying out of this mouth toward Bridezilla. How dare she treat the queen of bridal sewing so contemptuously?

    • mrsmole says:

      She will come to realize my super powers when she has the final try on and pays the bill…ha ha This same woman told me that the only thing important about the wedding were the vows…really…it would seem to be the lace over satin slinky dress, my dear.

  14. LeeAnn says:

    I can’t wait to hear about the bustles. I just helped a friend out with a bustle. Now I don’t handle wedding dresses everyday, but I was mortified at how poorly made this dress was. Of course, I kept my mouth shut. She wanted a over bustle but the panels were cut on different grains and wouldn’t drape nicely. So I had to complete an under-bustle with some creativity and coffee.

    I am continually astonished at what clients will say/ask. Keep them coming because they do make great blog fodder.

    • mrsmole says:

      LeeAnn, all my bustles are done with buttons and thread loops made with upholstery thread whether over or under. I will try to take some photos for you but every dress is so different! The main thing I find is what the button and loop will attach too and whether they need a small clear backer button behind or a piece of grosgrain ribbon for support. I imagine the bustle can get some mean treatment while doing the bugaloo after a few drinks!

  15. Oh, I don’t know how you stayed quiet. It is great that you had a comeback for her attention seeking ‘athlete’ comment. I like the idea of the bridal tranquilizer gun!
    Good luck with all those brides.

    • mrsmole says:

      Some days playing spa music, lavender plug-ins and candles aren’t enough to calm them down…in my sewing room I am in charge and they eventually leave. When they go out the front door I tell them, “It’s my dress now, I’ll call you when it is ready.” Then I cackle as they drive away…ha ha

  16. theresa says:

    You know, I don’t run a business, and I would be more than happy to spend a day in your place as a customer and dish to some of these “ladies”. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    • mrsmole says:

      Could you wear a cape with a big “S” on it too and kick some butts, pretty please?

      • Monique says:

        Why not have a rude and talkative parrot? You get all the fun, but the truth is out. ๐Ÿ™‚

      • mrsmole says:

        I don’t know…parrots live a very long time, drop feathers and poop and leave shells for one to clean up…maybe not…ha ha

  17. Alethia says:

    I have no words for this bride…you know I’ve heard it all…but I must say, never this…not the nerve of someone to actually let that come out of their mouth, wow!!

    • mrsmole says:

      We can’t predict stupid or thoughtless…that is what they bring to the party. The phrase, “There’s the door etc” comes to mind. Alethia, with all your years of bridal alterations I’m sure you have some real zingers!

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  19. Elle C says:

    What a ray of f@#king sunshine! Only someone truly nasty and miserable would even think of saying something like that. I feel pity for the fool who she is marrying. I see a divorce in the future. Maybe you’ll get a chance at her second wedding dress.

    I love your process of laying out the pattern and matching everything before even looking at the fabric. When I get around to sewing something that isn’t a t-shirt or elastic waist pants 8-), I am so doing this. You so smart Mrs. Mole!

    • mrsmole says:

      You’re so funny, Elle….thank you for saying what I was feeling. For some brides I wish I could tell their grooms one word…RUN! One real snotty bride in her 40’s brought in 4 of her older bridesmaids (flew them in from out of state) with huge tumblers of lattes and cameras…like a photo-shoot crew. They filled my room and for 90 minutes they all fussed her and snapped shots and guess what? 3 days later she announced her fiance had called off the wedding a month in advance. One of her friends later picked up the dress to resell on the internet and told me this would have been husband #3 and she kept picking the same sort of bad boy every time so her friends were not sorry to see him go. She needed a dose of reality too!

  20. Seattlerain says:

    You are a better person enduring a WTF moment! Good practice for dealing with future bridezillas! You’ve got the zen.

    RE: Decades of Style. Until I get more time and sanity, I’m giving up on the three collars! I’m going to try muslin #2 with just one collar, which defeats the purpose of the novelty of three stacked collars. . . I was just so frustrated with the boxes and bow ties. Too many quirky markings. Next time around I’ll do tailor tacks with different colored thread because their markings drive me to distraction!

    • mrsmole says:

      Your colored tailor tacks are great as long as the marking match up on the paper…which they didn’t…so try as we might…to follow directions…we usually have to double check the circles and squares and bow-ties…to find them incorrect. One collar, the top one would look just fine and a bonus of no stacking…it is the only one that attaches to the neckline anyway…the rest just float along behind. If you use just one collar, the underneath one can be like a facing and encase the entire neckline like a regular collar insertion so no bias binding step…quick and easy!

  21. Seattlerain says:

    I was just thinking that as I was writing notes on my pattern, that despite all my efforts to match their crazy markings with different thread, I’d still be reduced to eyeballing the stacking!

    Thanks for the tips! I’ll probably try another one collar version if I like this one! The flickr photo they link to on their site is beautiful! Makes me want to copy a similar version in a lighter weight fabric, as these collars are thick and I’m using just regular quilter’s cotton for my muslin #1 and 2! Ugh.

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