More Muslins for You

Before I start with muslins and comments I have to share my latest purchase. In the past I have bought rayon batiks from this company, Batik Butik, from local retailers and on-line but this time I was able to buy direct and order the thicker weight rayon  2008-red-ginkgo-lw-300…and was I delighted with the product! The weight reminds me of wool challis…but it is washable and way cheaper and cooler with prints. In addition, I did order the regular weight rayon to compliment what was already in my stash if I ever get the time to whip up some summer fashions. If you manage to decide which motifs are your style and color and order be sure to tell them you got the link from Mrs Mole!

OK, unto the clothing and pattern side of life….OK,  happy readers…for those of you who have been dying to see the Decades of Style 3 collar blouse…ta da….my client came and modeled the muslin and here is what we saw:2-front Not bad but we can do better…get the pins! I cut the largest size so I want to pin out the side seams at the waist and side invisible zipper…oh yes, I forgot to mention that last time. There is a zipper inserted in the left side seam up side down since the front is stitched together. I also added 1 inch extra fabric at the hip and hem area front and back for a total of 4 inches all around. I always add shoulder pads to her garments and in fact she has her own stash of them that are ordered from Wawak.


The amazing thing is the grain line is parallel with the floor and it actually in her words “makes me look slim”. The collars make such a vertical statement and draw you eye to the face away from the rest. By extending the pleats and tucks up an inch or so we get a better shape and get rid of the bagginess in the middle…other than that it is quite a success! The sleeves will be extended 3.5 inches and the hem dropped one inch but that is all for changes right out of the envelope…who knew?

So now before you all go berserk and buy up a load of these patterns…have a look at another one from that company…yes, I am sneaking in a new muslin #5003…you can see some samples and comments here. You might think that one pattern would fit as well as the first one…ha ha…you are wrong! Would you wear this little honey?frontback

Or the other question for we ladies of a certain age who want upper arm coverage…can you live with this sleeve and it’s facings?side You can see this pattern is not as nice on the very same body and not very flattering so my client is taking the muslin back to the store to let the owner have it to share with customers…those with skinny arms who want a dainty floppy collar and buttons up the front. My client needs a bit more sophistication and drama! So there you have 2 examples of good pattern/bad pattern fitting muslins…at least we did not go and cut into nice fabric and end up with a wadder!

For those of you who want bustle ideas…sorry next time…with 10 brides left to go it has been a madhouse with sewing all night and no time to take photos and measurements right now. But here is another example of what Elizabeth has deemed “DGD” or Distorted (or delusional) Gown Disorder…the bride said she bought a size 16 because she thought she WAS a 16…yes dear…here is the before:1-back and after:corset Nine inches is too wide a span to bridge with letting out side seams…it ends up being corset time again…blue ribbon is just what I had handy. She will be lovely on her special day and no one will know it did not come that way with a modesty panel behind…I love my business!

Stay cool until next time!

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16 Responses to More Muslins for You

  1. Marsha says:

    That 3-collar blouse is much more flattering than I thought it would be. Can’t wait to see it in its final fabric.
    Thanks for the rayon resource. It’s one of my favorite fabrics but I have trouble finding it in a good weight in pretty patterns.

    • mrsmole says:

      It is so yummy to feel and can transition from season to season…now I wish I would have ordered more…but isn’t that always the way? Thanks for dropping by, Marsha!

  2. Trish says:

    I agree with Marsha: the first blouse is flattering (and you have made it fit so beautifully). Having seen the dreadful second pattern, is it any wonder novice sewers give up when things don’t fit (and blame themselves). Who are designing those patterns? Monkeys?
    I must remember to suggest that corset lace-up option for dresses that are just too small. It would also work with formal dresses and there is so little fabric available in the seams these days.

    • mrsmole says:

      While it takes a bit of time to hand make all those loops and modesty panel, the cost is worth it to them since it means they can have their dream dress and I think corset backs actually improve the look of some plainer dresses especially going up the aisle or up the forest path as they do here. Even if monkeys are designing these patterns SOMEONE should be checking all the notches and circles…ha ha!

  3. Gjeometry says:

    Oh, I LOVE that ginko leaf fabric, it’s gorgeous! May have to get me some……

  4. That rayon is very pretty – do you have a plan or will it mature for a while?
    The difference between the blouses is very marked. I like number 1 very much. I am sure your client will be very happy with the final garment.
    God bless brides who ‘think’ they are a particular size. They keep us in fabric money! 🙂

    • mrsmole says:

      In the past I have made an unstructured coat from wool challis that can be worn over a simple slinky knit top and pants for special dinners out in cooler weather so this rayon may end up that way too. It was a Sandra Betzina pattern Vogue 8089 with bands that fold back, so simple and easy to line. Misguided brides who buy off the internet keep us in fabric money too…we can’t complain!

  5. eumoronorio says:

    Oh I love that three collar blouse! I wish I bought that pattern now. Well can’t have everything =) Thanks for the fabric source. I am a huge fan of batiks! I have to destash a bit before I buy more (you know so I have somewhere to put it =D) but when I do, I’ll tell them you sent me!

  6. Tia Dia says:

    I have that first pattern, so am reading all your posts about it with avid interest. I love how flattering it is with the interesting collar. And the DGD leaves me speechless….

  7. Loving the blouse, very flattering shape. The lacing on the dress is very effective, great solution to the problem. I’ll be keeping it in mind for the future.

  8. anne k says:

    Mrs Mole, I bought that exact batik from BB at the Expo in Puyallup, as well as a coordinating print and a black, both in the lighter weights – I love them! I will never, however, compare my finished garment with yours. I will enjoy this fabric so much, but promise me we won’t socialize together with our respective garments,okay? Or I’ll send a Really Special Bride your way! LOL

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Anne, no chance we will end up at the same place at the same time! Best wishes wearing yours and getting compliments!

  9. Bunny says:

    The three collar blouse looks really lovely on your client. It is very flattering and slimming. Too bad the other, not so much.

    Love your solution for the bride.

  10. jillybe says:

    Did you make this post just for lil ole me??? That gingko pattern fabric is some of my favorite ever! Not only that, but the very first blouse pattern I made when I re-entered the sewing world a few years ago was the Decades of Style Collar perfection blouse – and my second version used that gingko fabric! You can imagine the question marks that were floating around me the entire time I worked on that pattern – desperately trying to figure out how to make it fit and flatter! (I changed the sleeves rather dramatically for the gingko version.)

    I still want to try the 3 collar blouse – now more than ever, with your comparisons! I guess I assumed the fit on that one was going to be as troublesome as the collar perfection pattern – thanks for the pictures comparing them!

    • mrsmole says:

      The universe brings answers even when we don’t have the questions…ha ha. This week I am cutting out the 3 collar blouse and even though I thought I would extend each piece so they all are enclosed in the neckline edge…I may rethink that as it would add like 6 layers all in one place…hmmmm. If seamstresses got paid for thinking time…we’d be driving better cars!

  11. Pingback: Progress | fit for a queen

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