3 Collars and 2 Brides

Some of you have been waiting for the finished “Girl Friday” blouse with the 3 collars from Decades of Style. So how about some photos up close?

The directions were basic with basic drawings and things were stated to finish seams as you like…great…so it was up to me as to whether I serged or whipped stitch on all the raw edges and what to do with bias binding facings. The collars were stacked and topstitched with 3 rows of hand stitching…nice if you have the time and sewing for yourself. My client wanted just one row of machine stitching. Here is the backside of the collar section: 7-backside-of-collars8-front-of-collars The right side face up.

Once attached to the blouse, you are instructed to attach the back neck facing and then a bias strip 1.5 inches wide from center front to shoulder seam. Then fold it under…and then what? I trimmed the neckline seams to 1/4 inch and then wrapped them with the bias strip and pinned them to the blouse. All this lump will be covered by the collars.9-bias-binding10-front-seam As we work our way down the front you have to make a decision where the collars have to spread out where they are joined together. I opted to make them flat and serged and ended the bias binding folded under.11-neck-edge Here is a close-up of where the bias binding goes under the back neck facing. I interfaced that piece with batiste and serged the edges flat. Did you know that if you want to buy plain old batiste at JoAnn’s it is called Daphne? Why?

12-lower-edge-zipper13-right-side-zipper How about the invisible zipper at the hem? Well I flipped the raw edges up to form a small seam and then they are clean finished and encase the end of the tape. My client was happy with the olive green pull tab as yellow was too bright and they don’t make them in gold…bummer. The hem is just 5/8 inch and topstitched in place.14-finished-front

The finished blouse with shoulder pads and narrow hemmed sleeves. The collars lay flat and the extended waist darts will flatter my client. Do I recommend this pattern? Yes, but make a muslin first if you want to drop those sleeves to cover your arms.

A few more photos to share before I leave…brides…they come in all sizes and these 2 dresses tell the story:big-and-little Seamstresses have to make all sizes of brides look their best and flatter their figures so imagine taking a size O and removing 6 inches from the side seams and hemming it up almost 12 inches while letting out a size 22 in the side seams and adding a corset 6 inches wide. One bride is 4 feet 10 inches tall and tiny, the other 5 feet 8 and plus sized but both will be beautiful on their special day.

Look what I found in the veggie patch yesterday….lots of Japanese eggplant for the bar-be-que and peppers and onions for omelets!

Happy sewing everyone!


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22 Responses to 3 Collars and 2 Brides

  1. theresa says:

    3 collars, 2 brides and more yummy looking veggies that you can shake a stick at! The Decades of Style blouse looks awesome. FOV has one done in their shop as a sample, but in a much smaller size than I would ever wear. I like this pattern just have no need of something so dressy. Stay cool, and hope you have planned a little down time. How IS that knee doing? I know you’ll have lots of good fresh eats….:)

    • mrsmole says:

      The knee is about the same, still riding the exercise bike and occasional ice packs. It has been 6 months and I am hoping that come Feb I will be able to go up and down stairs better…fingers crossed! My butternut squash plants must have 20 huge squash on them…never had that before, usually just 2 or 3…that will be nice in the Fall. Sandi also has the muslin of the other DOS pattern I sampled…maybe someone will suit it just right?

  2. jrp53 says:

    The blouse is stunning and your work is absolutely beautiful but I’m curious for my own education. Why would you fold under the back neck facing at the shoulder seam instead of serging the edge flat without the fold (there would be some minimal hand tacking at the seam though)? Wouldn’t that be much less bulky at that seam junction with all that extra fabric? Do you/would you grade seams there after stitching? Like I said, I’m in awe of your talent but just want to hear your reasoning so I can learn from the master. Thanks for sharing all your great pics and projects.

    • mrsmole says:

      The pattern called for turning the long lengths of binding under so that was done but the center front end was also turned under because this fabric is thin and I never know how things will wear or wash and fray later. The part where it sneaks under the back neck facing has no treatment, it is just on it’s own…ha ha … who knows what happens under the neck facing? Thank you for asking, Jennifer, there are so many ways to do one job and usually the fabric makes the decision for me. I could have serged all the edges but after the first wearing and washing the serged thread would wiggle their way off. The folded edge at least gives a stable edge to stitch down to the blouse and it is all covered by the collars so tiny hand stitches won’t matter.

      • jrp53 says:

        Thanks so much for such a quick and complete answer. Sounds like the pattern would be pretty useless in the hands of an amateur.

  3. Rachel says:

    The blouse is lovely. Did you consider painting the pull tab on zips with nail polish? That has worked for me in the past – although this one looks fine as it is.

  4. mrsmole says:

    Hi Rachel, I have painted other pull tabs in the past with nail polish but I don’t have anything like that gold/lime color so my client can do it herself. In real life it blends very well and will always be worn over dark pants so we got lucky this time. That is the beauty of invisible zippers isn’t it, you can almost use any color you have on hand and color it later. But just when you think you have every color of zipper your clients need…OH NO…you don’t. I buy mine from WAWAK but JoAnn’s has softer shades sometimes.

  5. Pella says:

    The collars are beautiful; the fabric and colour shows them to perfection.

  6. That top looks great, thanks for the detailed description of how you made it work. Just like Jennifer I enjoying learning new ways of doing things. I am envious of your veges – grey winter here although my silly plum tree thinks it is spring and is madly flowering.

    • mrsmole says:

      I love plums! The seasons sure are mixed up these days! My autumn raspberries produced in May….and now they think they are done with Fall just around the corner.

  7. BeaJay says:

    That is a lovely blouse. Gorgeous collar. Nice haul from the garden!

  8. What a lovely blouse – I wish I had an occasion coming up so that I could justify the time to make it for myself!

  9. Bunny says:

    I think transitions are the toughest part of sewing to learn, a real bit of engineering. Good transitions, like you’ve done in this top, really separate the pros from the newbies. Great info, J.!

  10. Gjeometry says:

    That dress collar is just beautiful!! I love the layers and layers in it. Too bad you can’t dye zippers to match the fabric, eh?

  11. mrsmole says:

    Have to get out that nail polish!

  12. prttynpnk says:

    Wow- well I just love the top, but I might need the sewing elves to visit at night and fix my work as I go if I try it!

  13. mrsmole says:

    You have sewing elves, Anne? Can they be spared for a week or so to help me???? I’ll leave out cookies and chocolate for them and of course there is always booze waiting as a reward and lots of veggies. My client was amazed that the muslin made her look slimmer…must be the that the eyes focus on the vertical collars…she comes this week to get the finished blouse and more muslins and photos!

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