Last time we saw some peplum ideas and fitting and since the pattern gave us 2-3 versions let’s see what they are. Granted this was voted the best pattern of 2012 by patternreview.com but not many women mentioned the fact that the darts were merely decorative and completely out of place to do any good for the bust fitting. The fact that I cut a size 22 and the distance between the darts was less than 7 inches,(re-measured they are actually only 6.25) Lord knows what the smaller sizes measured out at! Anyone have this pattern to check it for me?
Right away you can see the darts are the same and the only deviation is the dropping side seam waistline and rising center front for view C. The C peplum is much longer and wider and more flared. Really compared side by side they are not as dramatically different as the envelope drawings.
Again, same shoulders with fitting darts for roundness and more width and length. See how view C mimics the T-shirt beneath? Since my client really loved the shape and length of that work in progress, I knew View C would make her happy.
Speaking of that T-shirt how about some alteration on Vogue 8821? I made the first shirt without a muslin since I was using a stable knit with not much stretch and cut a 16 since the pattern measurements were close to working. The back was very wide and flowing and really added to the front overall circumference. But the front top section suffered on it’s own being too short and narrow and was screaming “Release me or replace me”. The back section is so much longer and in a knit heavier so it pulls the front section up and over the shoulder and this raises the darts up too high and makes the armhole tight and torqued.
Adding an inch and extending the shoulder another 1/2 inch, the side seam 1/2 inch and backing up the side dart 1.5 inches will look much better. I cut a new front and measured the armscye since it grew too. The sleeve will have to be altered to fit the larger opening. Now the back section was just left as is, it was the bully and the armscye was OK. Even though this was a knit I thought to make the sleeve cap exactly the same as the altered front…see same 10.5 inches…call me crazy…I didn’t think I needed extra ease. Yes, I could have cut across the paper and added that way but hey a girl can make shortcuts and just cut larger some times. Here is the final sleeve, you can see the higher cap, and wider front to match the front section. The new sleeve fit perfectly in the T-shirt and now even though the back is still pulling with all it’s might, the front is longer and the darts stay put. I also cut a longer front lower panel and turned the pattern to be vertical lines instead of horizontal…you can do that? Yes, it is a knit but has so little stretch I thought of it like a woven and used the stripes to be a feature and cut that section 2 inches longer to cover the tummy as well…she loved it! Now it just needs some neck binding and hemming.
If you make this pattern be sure to add length to the front since you can always cut it off from both top and lower sections…that’s what makes it custom…add during cutting and trim off what you don’t like. People ask me all the time…how do you know what to remove? If you cut larger, baste, and then pin out what you don’t like and keep what you do like…all of a sudden you is a designer!
Remember last week the caller who wanted to bring her children to her wedding gown fitting and I asked her to leave them home? Well, guess who had her high-powered older sister write to me from another state to tell me her poor sister was having trouble finding a good seamstress….here’s the email…and my response…unbelievable:
My sister is in need of some alterations for her wedding dress. It’s too long and the sleeves need to be shortened…it’s short sleeved tank top type and she’s a very short girl if that makes sense. She’s been looking for someone and hasn’t had much luck. (REALLY?) The previous person she spoke with (THAT WOULD BE ME) charges by the hour (OUTRAGEOUS!) which I hadn’t heard of and restricts her from bring her child (DON’T YOU MEAN 2 CHILDREN? HOW UNCARING!) with her for a consultation. Can you give me some details about whether you can help and how you charge? Any information is appreciate, thank you.
I also charge by the hour and I do not allow children to come to my sewing room as it is full of machines and expensive tools. If your sister is called Cindy, I already have an appointment for her on Labor Day and her wedding is stated as Oct 18. I can give an accurate bid for my labor at the first free consultation. Customers are always free to go elsewhere and I will gladly give them names of others. I charge $XX per hour for bridal which is way less than David’s Bridal charges and I have many reviews on Google (which is how you found me) that tells of my quality of work.