Moving Darts and Patching

Let’s continue the paper pattern altering from last time. Remember the nipple distance on Vogue 8815? I’m cutting a size 22 and here is what they give me: They have the distance at 2 inches….4 inches total and then the dart tips are at 7 total inches apart…for a size 22…really? Time for the darts to move out on this version C.1-measure-points Redraw the actual bust point at 5 inches from the fold and drop it down 1/2 inch.2-fold-over-dartSlash vertically and horizontally and fold out 3/4 inch ( 1.5 total).3-shorten-dart Once moved, I draw the circle of “no-fly” zone 1.5 inches all around the new bust point because the dart’s main job is to release fabric where it is needed away from the apex.

4-pin-dart Fill in the gap with tissue paper and be sure to add enough below the dart as you will now pin it like you sew it, flip it toward the center and see what needs to be added to be caught in the seam when attaching to the front peplum. The dart cannot just be flapping in the breeze.5-trim-edge6-dart-extension Does this make sense now? The new fabric I’m using is a polyester with some body almost like a faille, nothing silky or flimsy so the peplum will hang nicely. H The blouse basted:          1-front-basted2-back-basted I like the way the Version C longer and wider peplum makes the vertical diamonds curve sideways toward the side seams while keeping the back ones very vertical and not swinging out away from the body/butt. Now all I need is the client who is dropping by next week for her try-on.

Update on the bride whose sister emailed me from another state…well it seems as though the poor bride did not know her sister would pull a trick like that and said that her sister is always trying to “fix” things for others in the family. She even got a 2 calls from her sister during the appointment to ask how it was going and the bride reported back, “Everything is wonderful, I am so glad I found her.”

Anyone wondering how the pageant princess bridal gown is coming along?

Here’s a sneak peek at the progress but shhhhhhh….let’s keep this a secret:10-try-on9-area-to-be-added11-side-try-on12-back-try-on You can see that patches will have to be added to fill in the missing areas and she has agreed to some sort of straps to hold this all up. The skirt will be about 30 yards of tulle pleated and layered over the lining in the photo and the entire bodice will be covered with a lace overlay with beading. You can see part of the lace fabric in the background on the sofa. So far with taking the entire dress apart, washing all the components and re-assembling them and adding more boning and invisible zipper and lining we have chalked up 10 hours and will have at least another 6-8 more to go. But in the end you will be amazed at the transformation!!!

Another haul from the veggie patch and straight onto the dinner plates..cut a butternut squash in half, microwave for 15 minutes, add butter and nutmeg in the well and scrape across the top, back into the microwave for 30 seconds and enjoy!


Thankfully, cooler weather visited us this week and we even had a little rain but the summer is still with us and my Autumn raspberries have come into blossom. I know you are all planning great Fall projects so I wish you much inspiration and fun in the planning and execution!

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20 Responses to Moving Darts and Patching

  1. theresa says:

    Good grief, what a hot mess that pageant dress was. I just know it is going to be stunner though.
    Can’t wait to see it. No fly zone, pretty cute phrasing on that. 🙂 And such a good clear tutorial on moving that dart over. Thank you! I swear though, who approves these patterns ..7 inches..I guess they are thinking those size 18-22 just have uniboob?

    • mrsmole says:

      Uniboob….haven’t heard that in a while! Once this pattern is perfect I expect there will be more garments made out of it to follow…I may even be brave enough to try it on myself. Thanks for dropping by, Theresa.

  2. Alethia says:

    Yes, great tutorial on moving that dart! I would have stopped at moving it over, but it makes so much sense to shorten that bust dart for a much fuller bust. Thanks for sharing! And, that gown is coming along beautifully, I definitely can’t wait to see the end results!
    I can’t remember the story of why she is transforming this pageant dress, but it would have been just as easy to have you create her one from scratch (seems to me). However, I’m sure she’s ecstatic!

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Alethia, you know we are always trying to stay one step ahead of our clients and remember where the lumps and bumps are is part of the service. The pageant dress was free to her so anything that is added is pure gravy…well it is money to me.

  3. Sewbussted says:

    Not only are you a very talented seamstress, you also have a green thumb. The vegetables from your garden …wow do t hey ever look good.

  4. mrsmole says:

    Thanks, Rhonda….this year the squash have taken over and since they require no work other than putting them in the ground back in May they are a real winner!

  5. Pella says:

    I’m trying to get my head round the two inches question. Surely not? Is this a new Voguism to add to the list,( ease excess, huge sleeve heads, sizing guesswork).

  6. mrsmole says:

    It does as my British husband says, “Beggars belief”. It might be the first pattern I have ever seen like this in the 16-24 size range…HEY VOGUE…if you are listening…WHAT’S UP?

    • Elizabeth C says:

      If I remember correctly, Vogue was advertising for a new pattern drafter on their web site about two years ago, and a lot of problems seem to have manifested themselves in patterns released since then. I know not everything was perfect with Vogue patterns before, but I just wonder if someone with a lot of experience was replaced by someone with a lot less . . . particularly as many of the problems I’ve read about on other blogs, like this one, strike me as errors that an experienced pattern drafter would know how to avoid.

  7. sewruth says:

    Your dart moving tutorial is like a lesson in nuclear-physics to me – I’ll have to read it again…..slowly. thanks

  8. mrsmole says:

    Oh Ruth, you can do it the simple way, cut a box, slide it 1.5 inches away from center front fold, fill in the hole with tissue paper and skip the dart extension part if it doesn’t bother you to have a dart not sewn into the lower seam. Sorry if I made it too complicated!

  9. prttynpnk says:

    I’m printing this one out to put with my peplum horror instructions! Thanks for the clarity!

  10. Gjeometry says:

    Hey, good timing! I have just had to move both the bust and waist darts in the Belladone bodice I am working on. I moved the waist ones out (towards the waist) and the bust ones down. But, I did not fold out any excess fabric. Are we supposed to do this if we move the darts? Or is this for something else entirely, as in, the fit was too big?

  11. mrsmole says:

    If nothing changes in the seam that crosses the dart legs (widest part) and it is very straight (like most side seams) then you should be OK. Always pin darts in the paper pattern and then flip them to the center to make sure that the legs are caught in the next seam to be sewn. As soon as the seam drops off at an angle that is when you have to pay more attention to the legs or shortness of the legs and add some paper, fold the dart again and flip it and then just cut off the excess and open up the paper dart to see the new little triangle of tissue paper and voila…you is the designer! I’m sure I will be making more of these in future and taking more photos.

  12. Tia Dia says:

    I have been extraordinarily unhappy with bust darts lately, and now I know why. Thanks muchly for this clear tute!

  13. mrsmole says:

    Oh Honey, you are most welcome! I see patterns with no darts, no princess seams and they claim they are the best fit ever…really? If you have boobs, you need darts/princess seams or you will look like you are wearing, I borrow the term from Bunny ala LaSewist, bags to wrap shipping boxes. One blog today showed about 20 different versions of a flat front and back sad top with a cut on short sleeve…hell, lay down on the floor with a newspaper under your chest and trace around yourself….that will make you a designer too.

  14. Oh, gosh…I think I measured the bust point wrong for your last post about this pattern – sorry! Didn’t even SEE that giant dot screaming ‘bust point’…! I’m printing out your instructions so I can think about maybe trying to kind of sorta move the dart if needed…since you don’t live near me 😉

    Still jealous of all your wonderful produce! So far, the deer have eaten my hibiscus, all my sweet potato vine (ok, I expected that one!) and have topped off every geranium except the ones up the stairs on the front porch. Don’t think planting produce is something I’m going to do at present 🙂

  15. mrsmole says:

    Gee Cheryl, I wonder if deer would bother with butternut squash? It is so hard on the outside and I grow mine in tomato cages to save ground space. You know if you start with where the bust point is, almost everything else comes from that vertically and horizontally. People get all fussy about narrow shoulders, high neck, sway back, but you can correct all those and if your darts don’t point to the bust points…you is up a creek! I used to tell my grown-up students…Imagine yourself lying flat on the cutting table and what you would have to do to a piece of paper to get it to drape well over your bust and tummy…you bet there would be darts involved!
    If you ever have a problem, take a photo and send it to me…I do consults with email…I will even draw on your photo and send it back with suggestions…call me crazy…I would do this all day every day if the brides would leave me alone!

  16. Lozzen says:

    mrsmole, sorry to be slow but the no fly zone exists so that one doesn’t extend the dart too close to the apex, right? As a women with a very large bust I was told that you should keep the dart about 2 inches from the apex, so this no fly zone thing is really helpful.

  17. mrsmole says:

    That is correct, Lozzen! The larger the cup size, it make sense to end the dart tip further away to allow the dart to release the fabric you need. Some women use the lid from a margarine tub or yoghurt cup to make the circles. Thanks for dropping by!

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