This season has been a blur of strapless gowns with girls wanting to flaunt their wares/
boobs for everyone to see so it was refreshing to have a bride come with a beautiful lace dress that needed a little more coverage for her religious wedding.
To start the dress had a real top with shoulders but a very deep open V in back and a revealing cutaway dip in the front. The goal was to make a separate bodice that would raise the front neckline under the lace and completely close off the open back. To do this I used my favorite pattern copying stuff on a roll from Home Depot...sheer fabric they use to wrap underground drainage pipes also known in the sewing world as Do-Sew. I traced and pinned it right unto the dress and got a general pattern: The new bodice was to be make out of poly lining fabric and then the new piece would be lined in Ambiance rayon lining to be next to her skin. The back pieces would have their own new lightweight separating zipper to avoid ripping out the existing one and make a better transition from heavy lace to lighter lace.
All the lace motifs cut off the front hem will be used to “fill in” the backs, Eventually the buttons will continue to the top edge. The front is more covered but still resembles the original sweetheart neckline shape. Let’s apply and play around with the motifs: The bride’s mother was a dream to work with and took photos along the way and just let me do what I thought best. In this photo you can see 2 organza test sleeves, one long and one short to get an idea of the bride’s preference. The satin sleeves would also be covered in lace and lined but as we ran out of the original lace her mother stepped in with lace motifs cut from her own wedding dress from 25 years earlier and they color matched!
Loops were added to one side and satin buttons on the other to complete the original look.
Sleeve lined with Ambiance by hand. A happy bride with her custom dress and her pink shoes peeping under the hem…oh wait…what about that scalloped lace hem edge…you can’t just cut it and fold in under can you? Of course not, that would be way to easy.
Like the 3 lace dresses that came before this one, every bit has to be cut away and raised up and attached so it looks like it came that way…and it does! The edge was all hand basted first, tried on and then I used invisible polyester thread in the needle and ivory poly thread in the bobbin to attach it. The layers of satin beneath it were hemmed along with the lining and we removed the netted petticoat to get a slimmer silhouette.
All in all quite a lot of labor but since this was my first temple-ready gown, I learned a lot and was challenged to be creative. This bride and her mother worked as a team and could not have been more fun! I certainly look forward to working with them again when her sisters set their wedding dates in the future!
The only downer this week has been some minor surgery to remove a screw that was inserted into my foot a year ago to hold my little toe straight in place. It was bothering me and I could not wear shoes with the screw rubbing just under the skin so my doctor slit open the side of my foot, in his office and removed it. Then he asked if I wanted it to take home but after I saw it…a plain old 1.5 inch brass screw, I said I had plenty of those in my garage. It will be nice to wear regular shoes again!
Thank you to all my readers and to all those who comment…sewing is a joy to be shared!
PS: my original link to the sheer copying fabric at Home Depot was linked to a product called Weed-X by mistake, the real product is called Soil Separator…the link has been corrected…sorry!