Well, my model/client is back and trying on her latest pattern for the Fall season.
Here is the Pattern Review page of other seamstresses who reviewed the Vogue 1164 process:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/47471 
Sandra Betzina designed this top for knits and recommended a knit lining as well as a stay tape along the neck edge. It is all held together with 2 covered snaps and a decorative button but one woman did attach a tie inside to keep the fronts stable.
This top will be made with a teal Sophia, a poly/rayon/spandex ponte knit from my stash that I bought a few years ago from Marcy Tilton.
Let’s see the muslin and any problems that show up knowing that it has to be snug to work with a knit:
Right away this is pretty nice fitting, no gaping neckline and the front darts can be sewn shorter so the main problem is the back. I drew two horizontal lines on the muslin to check for riding up or down and we got both. What shall we do???
Now think back to previous patterns…how to drop that top line… Got it?…Let’s slash and spread!
Now the lines are parallel with the floor and the pattern envelope suggests a narrow piece of elastic sewn across the center back section to pull the fabric towards the small of the back. I have seen this on RTW so that would work fine. The side seams are pinned to narrow the bust area and the lower side seams are let out 1/2 inch for sitting ease. The slash and spread allows us to see what is needed with the 1/4 inch gingham patch…see it is a 3/4 inch spreading to nothing at the sleeves…how easy is that? Easy peasy! The front is good for now and it will be cut as is and tried on later.
My client wants 3/4 length sleeves and she will be providing the nylon tricot lining fabric although you can buy is pretty cheapy cheapy on Fabric.com
Halloween was pretty busy with 140 little critters all shouting and holding their bags open for candy deposits. Even parents got with the program and dressed up as they walked through the neighborhood with their kids. One man, he must have been almost 7 feet tall, was dressed as the Grim Reaper with a scythe and hooded coat and mask…SCARY!
Thank you all for such lovely comments on the last post…hope my photos inspire you and also make your sewing projects seem a little less daunting!
fit for a queen 
Thanks for walking us through these alterations to the muslin. I’d have been cutting fabric OUT of the back, and making a fine mess of things. I’m going to remember your tricks here 🙂
The trick is to make horizontal lines straight…do that and you have won half the battle, then pin out what you don’t want, keep what you do want and voila’…. perfection!
Ditto CarolinasCalling’: A visual alteration tutorial helps to make sense of what to do. This is one of those patterns that I ask myself ‘now why did I past this one up’. It looks great even as a muslin.
It was issued 2010 and I am surprised that only 4 women have done reviews so far. Every designer has duds from time to time but this is a winner from Sandra B!
I got sucked in! Going to Hancocks tomorrow and they have Vogue on sale this week. That’s getting added to the list. I think it looks great, and well fitting cross over tops aren’t easy to findl
Thanks for enabling! LOL
My pleasure, Lynda…and may you have much success when you make your muslin! I am going to add a center back seam to add that 3/4 inch spread without distorting the new shape of the upper back and that new center seam will allow me to curve in the waist and reduce some bulk back there without the use of elastic. I see that it is now out of print but you can still get one on eBay or Etsy.
Great post. Love watching these come together. I bought this pattern but have since found that Raglan sleeves don’t work on my shoulders. Nice pattern though.
You could lay this pattern over another bodice and just add regular shoulders and sleeves to salvage the wrap front. My client has narrow sloping shoulders so we added a 3/4 inch shoulder pad. If you have more square shoulders then you may have to add to the center raglan seam to get the right drop in that area. Nice to hear from you, BeaJay!
Being able to draw lines on muslins is so useful. I am sure our clients think we are mad, but it helps see adjustments so much better (as you have shown!) – and I write the adjustments needed directly on the cloth so they don’t get lost or mixed up.
That looks as though it will be a great garment. Again.
Thanks, Kim…unless you use gingham for test garments, how do you know what the lines are doing? Gingham can be very flimsy so a thicker muslin works best for me with drawn on lines. Even my clients can see what their bodies do to the pieces. Just received a 50 yard bolt in the mail today which should last for a little while now.
That fits so much better. Looks like she lost ten pounds. At first I thought “this is not the look for her” but seeing your adjustments makes into a very flattering top. Can’t wait to see the final product.
Well Bunny, after reading my blogs one would think I only have the crappiest fitting patterns for my clients but here we are with one that is almost perfect…the neckline being the most perfect! Too bad it is OOP.
Very helpful post! I really need to make muslins more often.
Nice pattern and how nice the front at least is a pretty good fit out of the envelope! You always amaze me with how quick and concise you are in locating and fixing a problem. Bellisimo!
I am not a huge fan of either knits or wraps but I think that is going to make one lovely top for your client. Lucky lady!
Interesting! I love reading about how you fit the garments to your clients.
Thank you,Cindy, Theresa and Gjeometry…I love making muslins and it is surely a bonus to find out it “almost” fits right away! Most women over 50 need extra fabric in the back so it is a quick solution and easy to work out on the paper pattern which i will be doing next time.
This will be wonderful on your client-I appreciate the detail you included here. Thank you for the mini lesson on alterations.
No problem, Mary, drop by any time for slashing and taping and griping about patterns…it’s my mission in life! ha ha
Mrs. Mole, I always enjoy reading your emails and hearing about your experiences. I wonder whether you can explain where to place the straight lines to determine whether and where they bend? If I could master this aspect of alteration, I might some day become a better sewing. Many thanks, Debra
Sent from my iPad Debra
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Hi Debra…what a good question…and the answer is: across the upper back where a yoke would go, across the back at the waistline,across the back at the hips if the top is longer, across the front where a yoke would go or nipple level and across the waist in front and across the hips if the top is longer. If any of those lines go up or down you attach them with scissors and slash…either opening up and adding gingham or overlapping and pinning shut to make all the lines parallel with the floor. In doing this you can actually make the side seam perpendicular with the floor which is the aim all the time. Thanks for dropping in!
I’m sorry if you’ve covered this before and I’ve missed it…
Do you ever just do the muslins and pattern alterations for a client, and then she goes off and makes garments herself using the adjusted pattern?
Yes, I do this and also do pattern perfection along with it…making the muslin changes back unto the original paper or making a new paper pattern. I pad out duct tape dummies for gals and also do gingham draping to make a basic sloper so they can use it with all their commercial patterns. I earned a Fashion Degree back when I was 42 and for 5 years in college we made patterns, draped, and created original designs and made them up on our own live models and put on fashion shows every year. Sewers have a hard time adjusting their back patterns because the grain lines twist when you twist to look in the mirror so having someone do the slashing and corrections is way easier.
Hmmm… I am really going to have to start looking for someone who does that in my area (Southern Ontario (London), Canada). I’d love to come and have you do it, but for some reason my family refuses to budget in cross-border sewing excursions. If only they didn’t keep insisting that food is more important than fabric! 🙂
Do you have any sewing guilds near you? Here we have the American Sewing Guild with neighborhood groups in many larger cities and even rural areas. They always have someone who still makes clothing and can help. Although more and more sewers “cross over to the dark side” and take up quilting and avoid fittings and darts. Maybe even call a local seamstress and ask her if she knows anyone who would be willing to work with you. I used to live in Vancouver. BC when I had a Canadian husband but that was back in the 70’s.If you check out Glenda Sperling’s videos, she may have something you can use by watching. http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/index.html
Thanks so much, again, Mrs Mole, for showing this so clearly! After initially feeling overwhelmed by all possible fitting issues, I’m starting to “get it” and really enjoy the fiddling around with a muslin, rulers and markers, etc. Not a pro by a long shot, but certainly an enthusiastic learner. Instead of a chore, it’s fun to make a muslin, and it feels safe to sew the fabric when I at last get round to it.
Patience pays off, that’s for sure, and it comes with good results (and age, haha).
Have a great weekend. We’re in for more rain and wind, but hey, it’s November. 🙂
Stay warm and dry, Monique! Making muslins is a hoot…you can draw on them and slash them and then save them for when a child needs a costume and paint them and add fringe and logos etc or just use them as a cleaning rag. You can cover plants in the winter with them and let the cotton fabric mulch down into the soil…they can even be wadded up and used as stuffing in dog beds…and if you can buy the muslin by the bolt..it is way cheaper!
Great ideas 🙂 And yes, these days by the bolt.
Amazingly, this morning is quite sunny, so I’ll enjoy it outside while I can. Have a good Friday!
You love your job, don’t you? I can really see the expertise and enthusiasm in this post. Thanks again for explaining all about fit.
For me there is nothing as rewarding as sewing for others and myself. Gardening comes second when plants survive and thrive and produce edible produce. The passion is a gift! Your latest Donna Karan dress is amazing!
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