You all remember Nancy, my client/model and her Vogue 1164 wrap top muslin?
So what happened after the initial fitting and pinning and slashing and adding?
Let’s get to the cutting table and see what worked: First, I measure the patch and see it is 3/4 inch high and trails off to nothing at each end. But wait…I can’t add that much fabric if there is a center back fold can I? No, but if you did not cut off the paper margin around the center back piece, you can add a seam allowance and do magic. By adding a center back seam, we can curve the back panel and give it some interest and even take in at the waist instead of adding a strip of elastic to snug in the excess like Sandra Betzina suggested…not this time Sandra. The side seams are reduced at the top end near the armhole and let out near the hem.
But before we mess with darts, let’s stack the side seams and make them match since we are taking them in equally front and back. Sometimes people forget that what you do to the front, you do to the back and this makes it quicker by stacking and checking.
Now let’s correct/
mess with the the fronts…remember that the 3 darts wandered up a little higher than her bust point and I wanted to reposition them? OK, how do we do that? Checking that the smaller size dart positions were just where I wanted them, I just used those and added more paper to make the dart legs:
Can you see the new blue lines for dart legs and the new blue dot at the dart tip? Remembering that we have that “no fly zone” of 1.5 inches from the actual bust point, these are backed up a little. So for those of you who were confused a while back about how to fold new darts with added paper…see the extra tissue paper just hanging out there? Now let’s fold the new darts and flip them down into their sewn position and trim off what we don’t need:
So, here is what we have…and you are asking…well Mrs Mole…how come you still have to pin out the side seams? Well, the pattern called for a knit and we made the muslin in a non-knit and now we have to let the fabric have it’s way…it has some extra stretch and that will be pinned out. Check out the back: There is that excess but this time it is going to be pinned out at the waist and kept the same at the hem. The neck edge is high enough on her upper back and once the seams are trimmed and pressed it will hang nicely. The sleeves will be shortened to 3/4 length and narrowed too. A tricot knit lining will be added so for now that is just in transit from WWW.fabric.com.
Once the lining is attached and the top is hemmed it will not look like a pajama top…poor Nancy, I can’t send her out looking like she just got up!
Next time some hot orange fashions and crazy designs! Freezing cold this morning…20 degrees F in the patio when I hung the hummingbird feeder outside….brrrr…don’t know how those little delicate creatures can survive the winter!