Progress Wrapped Up

You all remember Nancy, my client/model and her Vogue 1164 wrap top muslin?

So what happened after the initial fitting and pinning and slashing and adding?

Let’s get to the cutting table and see what worked:1-add-to-back First, I measure the patch and see it is 3/4 inch high and trails off to nothing at each end. But wait…I can’t add that much fabric if there is a center back fold can I? No, but if you did not cut off the paper margin around the center back piece, you can add a seam allowance and do magic. By adding a center back seam, we can curve the back panel and give it some interest and even take in at the waist instead of adding a strip of elastic to snug in the excess like Sandra Betzina suggested…not this time Sandra. 2-altered-back The side seams are reduced at the top end near the armhole and let out near the hem.

3-stack-side-seams But before we mess with darts, let’s stack the side seams and make them match since we are taking them in equally front and back. Sometimes people forget that what you do to the front, you do to the back and this makes it quicker by stacking and checking.

Now let’s correct/mess with the the fronts…remember that the 3 darts wandered up a little higher than her bust point and I wanted to reposition them? OK, how do we do that? Checking that the smaller size dart positions were just where I wanted them, I just used those and added more paper to make the dart legs:


Can you see the new blue lines for dart legs and the new blue dot at the dart tip? Remembering that we have that “no fly zone” of 1.5 inches from the actual bust point, these are backed up a little. So for those of you who were confused a while back about how to fold new darts with added paper…see the extra tissue paper just hanging out there? Now let’s fold the new darts and flip them down into their sewn position and trim off what we don’t need:5-fold-darts

6-trim-away7-open-darts After trimming and opening…Ta Da….new darts and ready to cut the fabric…teal Sophia ponte knit.front-pinned

So, here is what we have…and you are asking…well Mrs Mole…how come you still have to pin out the side seams? Well, the pattern called for a knit and we made the muslin in a non-knit and now we have to let the fabric have it’s way…it has some extra stretch and that will be pinned out. Check out the back:back-pinned There is that excess but this time it is going to be pinned out at the waist and kept the same at the hem. The neck edge is high enough on her upper back and once the seams are trimmed and pressed it will hang nicely. The sleeves will be shortened to 3/4 length and narrowed too. A tricot knit lining will be added so for now that is just in transit from

Once the lining is attached and the top is hemmed it will not look like a pajama top…poor Nancy, I can’t send her out looking like she just got up!

Next time some hot orange fashions and crazy designs! Freezing cold this morning…20 degrees F in the patio when I hung the hummingbird feeder outside….brrrr…don’t know how those little delicate creatures can survive the winter!

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12 Responses to Progress Wrapped Up

  1. sdbev says:

    I am so looking forward to seeing the solution. I am humbled by your genius.

  2. mrsmole says:

    Well, sdbev, it is way easier working on someone else’s muslin than your own. Mirrors don’t help much when you are trying to see behind you…all you see is your behind…who needs that? Pinning out excess fabric on a client is simple, slashing and spreading is easy…as long as it is not you and you are wrestling with fabric and pins…find a friend who can see wrinkles and train her to pin…you will never regret it!

  3. sewruth says:

    I can see the difference repositioning the darts makes. The top isn’t pulling, stretching or gaping anywhere. It does seem like a tonne of work for one top.

    • mrsmole says:

      But every time she wears it around her friends she will get compliments and be envied for the perfect fit and color which matches her eyes. Moving darts, or just using the ones that were already there took 5 minutes, narrowing side seams another 3 minutes, spreading the back 3/4 inch another 10 minutes if you add the tape. In less than 20 minutes we have perfect fit. Not having to adjust the sleeves except to narrow them was a bonus! I think you would do the same for a good friend, no?

  4. prttynpnk says:

    I know I always say it- this is so cool to watch- like origami- move this, fold this, ease this- whoa…its a swan! A great class every time

    • mrsmole says:

      Origami? Now you have elevated my craft into the realm of almost spiritual….ha ha Swans? Maybe that is what i try to do with my clients…transformed into swans…I love that! Thank you, Anne…I should put that on my business card!

  5. Lyrique says:

    I soooo look forward to your posts. Something new learned with each one. Something new to admire. Fun!

  6. mrsmole says:

    Thank you, Lyrique….I feel the same way about each client and her pattern. Each body is a real challenge and finding the tricks to work with her along the way is fun. I worked in a quilt shop for a while and had to make sample blocks for displays and decided I loved darts and fitting bodies more than fitting little squares and triangles.

  7. This is such a wonderful journey to watch from the sidelines! Your client is going to have a beautiful, well fitting top. This is a great example of why you need a good seamstress to handle things like complicated fit issues! Definitely out of the realm of my experience 🙂

    Can’t wait to see the finished product!

  8. mrsmole says:

    Pinning for others is way easier than doing your own clothes because you can SEE drag lines and wrinkles and you can pin out side seams faster while they stand still. Doing you own clothes you have to try it on, fuss with it in the mirror, pin awkwardly, take the thing off, straighten the pins and try it on again and at that point just want to yell. I admire women who pin their own clothes with a mirror and camera…patience is a virtue best used on others…not on my own stuff.

  9. Trish says:

    I agree that we’re all learning so much from your blogs ( including patience!). I made myself a dress on the weekend, and found fitting myself so frustrating, I nearly gave up in disgust. I was hoping there was some method I didn’t know about, but from your comments, it sounds like it’s the same for everyone. I just kept wishing I could get around the back and make it fit perfectly. Using mirrors didn’t really help much. It’s reassuring to know that it’s not just me having those problems!

  10. mrsmole says:

    Oh Trish, I have clothes I have cut out and basted from 5 years ago that I have not finished because I don’t make time to try them on and pin them out. I’d rather work on someone elses clothes than mine. That’s where a sewing friend can help with pinning out wrinkles and drag lines. Wish we lived on the same continent, we could help each other!

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