Ever since Jan 1st rolled around, the phone has not stopped ringing with folks needing new hems, dropped hems and bridal hems but first let’s start with my red coat hem.
Since it was cut with only a seam allowance, yes Mrs. Mole forgot to add a deep hem, there is a technique I use that works to add weight and make it sturdy for sitting down and not having it droop or bag out. First, I use my favorite fusible 3 inch wide interfacing from hem edge to 2.5 inch up into the coat. Then I attach a strip of lining fabric and fold it under to be double which creates a nice smooth top edge to attach.
Then the coat lining is attached to that top edge and allowed to bag down.
This technique is also good on pants that need to be lengthened. This week a gal brought in 2 pair, both brand new but one was already tackled by another seamstress. Once the hem was let down to the lowest point she had simply attached a narrow strip of rayon hem facing and it was falling apart with no stability. I replaced it with another wider strip of polyester lining fabric. A wider strip allows your pant hem to glide over your shoes instead of catching. You can see the understitching which helps hold everything to the inside. Another pair were plaid and needed the same technique: This time I used Ambiance rayon lining as they will be dry cleaned being a wool blend. These pants also needed a full 2 inches let out in the waistband…OH NO! Who wants to do that? Well I got lucky as the front flap was 1 inch away from the zipper edge and the back flap could adjust to an added piece. I was able to just open the waistband up to the first belt loop, borrow one inch from the center pleats and slide everything forward including the lining. Then just sew up the old button hole, attach the button and make a new buttonhole and voila’ …pants that fit!
The final hem is a real challenge time-wise. What do you do when your bride needs her dress shortened 8 inches and the hem edge is scalloped lace edging sewn unto chiffon? Well, every single short cotton stitch must be removed from the back as the front is sewn with invisible thread.
The chiffon will be shortened and all this lace edging will be pinned on, hand basted and then machine stitched just as the original…invisible on top, cotton or polyester on the back. Here we have 3 yards…108 inches of toil and trouble and labor!
Wishing all your hemming jobs this week will be simple!!!
Best wishes for a very happy and productive New Year and if you need inspiration check out the Jungle January over at Pretty Grievances!