Many of us have projects we started with good intentions and then had to abandon for various reasons. Mostly of my reason is the sheer volume of bridal dresses taking over my life from Mar-Dec. Last week, I decided to uncover one blouse from the aging closet (like cheese or fine wine) and bring it into the light of day after 4 years and finally finish it.
Originally this Butterick 3926 had been cut with a collar and collar band and all nicely interfaced and sewn together as one unit ready to be attached to the shirt….not a lot to do but no one goes out without a collar do they? I pinned it all together and tried it on and decided it was way too much activity of the print high up on my neck so I took apart the collar and band and just kept the band like a Mandarin collar…less is more. Of course the collar was already understitched and trimmed with pinking shears, so that left the band smaller as well. Here are the band center edges which have to be re-shaped into straighter edges. Nice thing about interfacing…you can draw on it! With a ruler I drew the lines straight up and at 90 degree angles from each center front band. You can also see the dotted lines where the lower edge would be folded under and attached to the neck edge later.
Then I thought…do I HAVE to turn all that bulk under and stitch through all the layers? Is there some way to keep it flat, not use a nasty serged/overlocked edge? Well IF I treat it like a waistband facing and attach a Hong Kong binding…that might work. The lower edge was trimmed to 1/4 inch and Ambiance bias strip was sewn on and flipped to the wrong side and edge stitched to hold the HK in place.
Here is the inside band facing with the HK binding and the understitching at the top edge:
Now I can stitch in the ditch from the right side and everything will be flat inside…ahhhh. Band overlaps, sits flat and now for buttons…when in doubt I always make covered ones as it raises the perceived value. Let’s make seven 5/8 inch ones: and make some black buttonholes and sew on those buttons: Can you see the buttons? Most just blend in…just the way I like it and with a snap at the band, I’m ready to wear it out!
Before I go I will leave you with 3 new sheer jackets for my model/client Nancy. She keeps buying wild polyester chiffon for the same great drapey jacket to wear over tank tops and t-shirts. Traveling a lot with her husband she can change her looks and these jackets take up no space in her suitcase and never wrinkle. So a little secret…the grey jacket was cut crossgrain to have the flowers on the bottom back edge…holy crap…you can do that? Yes, it is a tight woven and we can do what we want! It still drapes the same as the rest. And a sneak preview…. Vogue 8947 , you have seen it on many blogs, and now Nancy wants it too so here is her muslin waiting for her:
Until next time….watch for signs of Spring!!!! It’s coming!!!
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