Welcome to all the new viewers this week who found their way from Ruth’s blog: http://corecouture.wordpress.com! While my sewing is dictated by clients I follow her and envy her creations and final great fit and choice of fabrics and colors.
This last week was filled with anxious teenage girls and their mothers and Prom dresses that would need some work and mothers with children who reeked havoc in my sewing room. The first mother called to ask about dropping off 5 pair of new pants to be hemmed and after making a date and time she added,”I apologize for my children in advance, they are 4 years old and 10 months and are very inquisitive and crawling.” After feeling my stomach start to churn, I replied, “My sewing room is a very dangerous place with machines and pins and someone will have to be watching your children while you try on the pants.” She decided to come alone.
The next mother came to have her bridesmaid dress hemmed and brought along her 8 year old daughter as a surprise and in the 30 minutes they were there that girl went through my entire room touching picking up and moving everything I hold near and dear no matter how many times I asked her not to. At one point I wanted to ask the mother to put the kid back in her car but having someone jumping off the sofa unto the floor and opening drawers can really speed up the pinning process!!!
The third mother brought her 6 year old pageant princess to have a dress hemmed. Now I don’t know if many of you have seen Toddlers and Tiaras on TV but it involves taking average looking girls and transforming them into mini Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe with fake teeth, fake hair, thick make-up and lots of drama all competing for a prize/crown. The mothers whip these little girls into a frenzy to perform dances and strut their stuff for the judges. The tiny girl in my sewing room was a size 4 and her custom made dress ($350) needed hemming but during this process of pinning up 20 vertical flounces and hem and linings she really had ants in her pants. The mother said they had to wear 5 different outfits for the competitions and the prize was a trip to Disneyland. Lord only knows how much money is spent for each competition!
The real fun this week was having my client/model Nancy over to try on her Vogue 8947 muslin. In my last post I showed the sample dress on the dress form but once she tried it on, the weird sleeves had to be removed. Then we got to pinning and marking and laughing. Can you see where the designer thought the bust points should be? The neckline had already been moved in on the sides 5/8 inch on paper but the eventual finished edge will be the cut edge. What we really like is the princess seams extended all the way past the waist instead of a seam there, so the paper pattern will be altered to reflect that. It will elongate her and draw the eye up and down instead of across her waistline as in the photo with red lines. Since Nancy is 2 sizes or more different from bust to hip, I cut the dress for the hip ease and pinned out the excess in the top. Since she is short waisted, I prefer to pin out instead of make patches. You can see the drooping center back before and after and the side seams in the bodice that need to be tightened up. Can you see the rounded back line across her shoulders? That will be added on paper later.
Besides the shoulders pinned up, the zipper will also be taken in and the amount I add to the upper slash will be removed from the swayback area at the same time…why? Well the length we have here is perfect so adding at one area and taking away at another on a straight center back seam will cause the seam to conform to curves and that is what we want. The hips fit so well and the skirt falls from the yoke just right.
The neckline will be raised, the edges you see will be the finished edge with seam allowances added on paper and center front folded out on paper too. Without making that adjustment, the shoulders tended to slide off…who needs that?
Next time I have wild Prom dresses and brides to delight you and more hoochie-mama dresses that need some modesty adjusting! Nancy has a new floral jacket coming and lots of paper pattern adjustments too! Have a super week for sewing for Spring!