Remember when we last saw Nancy modeling her muslin in this post?
Well, do you want to see what happened next? Bet you are tired with seeing bride after bride and want to see some real sewing, don’t you?I have made a Pinterest board for all the photos here.
After pinning and pinning and marking where slashing would occur the next step was altering the paper pattern before cutting into her very thick ponte knit fabric. The center front was elongated by combining the lower section # 14 with the upper section for a taller smoother look…who needs more horizontal lines on their tummy? The back has the added upper back slash and spread…notice the curve it makes, it is OK since an invisible zipper can handle the curve. The swayback and short-waisted overlaps are included too. So here we are…even with paper pattern altering we still have some tweaking to do…why? Well this pattern calls for a woven fabric and we are using a knit…holy crap…you can do that? Yes, but you have to be willing to pin out more than normal and a couple times to get the fit right. You can see the sway back short waist overlaps were not enough, the upper back is a little too wide but the hips can be reduced…happy days!
Let’s take in the side seams and stabilize the shoulder seams with tape.
The zipper seam is widened and the shoulder seams are topstitched flat. Also the waistline seam is topstitched from the zipper to the front panel to be decorative but also hold that seam opened flat.
The neckline is square so the corners have to be chalked and interfaced with fusible tricot before adding the lining. I opted to use a knit lining but only in the center panels and full back to make the neckline more stable.
Lining is attached and flipped and will be hand sewn along the zipper to allow for stretch.
Lots of wrinkles but I hang the garment for a day to relax everything and re-pin and hand attach down all the seams. The front princess seams are pressed flat and open and held that way with the lining. the armholes are left raw and waiting for a bias binding. The neckline is hand basted and will be topstitched to hold the lining flat and always on the inside.
The hem is done with a coverstitch and the back vent is reinforced before sewing the end and then topstitched to match the rest.
What’s left? Just the hook and eye at the top of the zipper and some pressing.
Nancy apologized for not wearing the proper underwear for the photo shoot. She will of course, wear a half slip and stand up straight to avoid wrinkles and adorn herself with some really cool jewelry now that she has such a perfect backdrop. What’s next…well we are working on the next dress Vogue 8969…one of those Very Easy Vogues that requires more fitting and altering than normal and weirder sizing that normal.
Just a few shots of the squash garden…remember when they were just baby plants back in May? Well, to save space, I trained the crookneck and butternut squash up metal tomato cages and they are now almost 6 feet tall:
Hope your gardens are producing loads of produce and flowers and can give you a time of rest in the middle of summer sewing…more crazy sewing fixes next time! Oh…last week when uploading my post about the gold bride, WordPress had a delay in processing so it was not available to everyone…so if you missed it, please flip back to the previous post to see such a pretty gown.