This week we needed a visual for a better sleeve with a taller cap. I placed the paper pattern down and traced the XL size along with the extra panel for fitting. The grain lines are drawn horizontally and vertically in black marker. The stitching line for the XL is the dotted line at the top and the rest as they say…is gravy. If we need it, it is there, if we don’t it gets cut off…CL-TL.
I pinned the lower half of the sleeve in the armhole from notch to notch and worked the rest of the sleeve with ease. Then I used the XXL stitching line at the cap only to give extra height…about 1/2 inch more. Here is the sleeve machine basted: It is getting better with just that 1/2 extra don’t you think? But the bicep line still hikes up a bit. So what happened to the sleeve and the armhole? Dimensions please….. We went from 3/4 inch ease to 1 inch. Each sleeve cap section enlarged 1/8 inch so total 1/4 inch.
Then I thought…in the very first photo last week it looked like 1 inch extra sleeve cap height would be good. I removed the sleeve, drew another seam line 1/2 inch higher up and basted it in.
Adding a full inch added another 1/4 inch to the overall sleeve circumference so to reduce the ease below the cap and above the notches I pinned out and basted 1/2 inch (2 squares) all the way across. Now we have the original circumference with ease of .75 inch. While it looks like there are drag lines it is because there is no arm in the sleeve and it hangs flat.
Is there anything else we can do besides that pinning out? Of course, as my grandma used to say, “there is more than one way to skin a cat”. In this previous photo you can see you can raise the curved sections up: You need to plan ahead for this as there is no extra fabric there once you have cut out the sleeve unless you want to make another muslin. Either way you are shortening the distance from the new cap line but still having a taller cap to eliminate drag lines and lay nicely over the shoulder bone. So for this pattern the real sleeve will be cut size XL with the cap cut for the XXL plus another 1/2 inch higher. The pinned area will be folded out of the paper pattern straight across.
This is just my version of making this sleeve look better, you don’t have to try it or agree. But if you look back through some of Nancy’s other patterns we have done this over and over for wovens and knits. Next week, she returns from her vacation and we can get started on pinning and slashing this jacket.
Thank you for all your helpful comments and questions. If I have not shown what you asked, please be patient, opportunities will bring more photos but in the meantime I am just working on my 45th bride this season and 33rd bridesmaid dress so time is short in the sewing room. You can always send photos and questions privately and if you have any SEW BAD photos for the Saturday feature…send them to: email@example.com