Jacket Preparations

Nancy went off on a vacation and left me with the new Butterick 6106. So far you have only seen the sleeves and the short cap but how about the rest of it?B6106

Let’s see what we are up against:            P1170894
The back is normal with side panels, the right front is interesting with diagonal strips and a triangle or two that attach to the back side panel. But then we come to the left side…hmmm



What you don’t see in the photo on the envelope is a lump/tumor of sorts of fabric that pooches out from the body for some reason…OK designer’s choice. In the paper preview, the middle strip is already showing this protrusion. When we go to the muslin it gets even better/worse.

2-right-side So far so good…3-right-side-level Bring out the ruler and see where our grainlines will be…can you see the angle?4-side-shape The front of the jacket will certainly flare away from the body by 3 inches…OK designer choice.5-front The fronts overlap and then….the left side problem emerges:6-tumor-left-side7-left-side-grainline Besides the tumor, the grainlines are wandering north and also flaring away from the body. Let’s see the fabric version.

10-muslin-back9-muslin-r-side Back and right side look the same as in the paper version…how about the fronts and left side?13-muslin-sewn-front-bulge Do all the opposing grainlines make you nervous? Do all the drag lines worry you? Does the tumor pouch make you wonder WHY? Me too! Maybe you are thinking that I should have cut a smaller size but the bust and hips measure out well for a jacket to be worn over other clothing, it is just this weird shape that worries me. The designer Katherine Tilton has shown other versions of this in plaid and stripes.L1030024

Once Nancy returns she will be modeling this puppy and we will see what it looks like on a real body.

Before I go I thought you might like to see the tunic that was attached to the sleeves in the last post. This cool linen/cotton fabric was bought at Fabric of Vision in Ashland, Oregon  years ago and waited/aged until I could figure out what it wanted to be.

P1180078 2-raise-necklineIt is Butterick 5390 that I have made in 2 other versions last year. The V-neckline is very deep so I raised it up 2 inches and cut the sleeves crossgrain and pieced them to be horizontal:    tunic B53905-preview-sleeves

Until next time…does anyone need more veggies? It has been a very long growing season in the Mole’s garden…Sept-2014-2



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15 Responses to Jacket Preparations

  1. JustGail says:

    I think that bump is in the envelope photo, but has been pushed inward a bit – at least to me it looks like a shadow right where it would be. On Katherine Tilton’s site, the jean jacket version has also collapsed inward. I think I like the coat, but I would stick with softer fabrics.

    Hmm – that would make a great concealment for a seriously large pocket for phone, wallet, gloves….

  2. Valerie says:

    On the plaid one it looks like that point is supposed to stick out and look artistic. hmm You either have to really go with it and make it super stiff to accentuate it or modify it to make it wearable but still do a nod to the idea. You can do it Mrs Mole!

  3. mrsmole says:

    Thanks, Valerie…we shall see…some surgery required….

  4. accordion3 says:

    Does the designer respond to questions? Curious to know what she intended…

  5. mrsmole says:

    I’m sure Diane would respond if I asked her. I have met her and bought fabric from both she and her sister Marcy in Cave Junction. As we progress, I may just do that.

  6. I can’t wear things like those crazy angles and styles…it always looks like I’ve stumbled into someone’s dress up trunk 🙂 My style is pretty classic, which just makes things worse. They are fun on the right person 🙂

    Your garden has been terrific! We didn’t do one this year, with the exception of an herb garden, which has done nicely and foiled the deer. They don’t seem to like herbs…:)

  7. fabrickated says:

    I am afraid I don’t really like this jacket. I am not keen on “structures” jutting out from the body at odd angles. It might be fashionable; it might be artistic; it might be architectural. But we women are generally somewhat curvy and I think we need our clothes to come with us, not fight a few rounds between getting dressed and finally getting our PJs on. I am sure it is meant to create an interesting look with a stripe or a plaid, and I trust you will tame it in due course.

  8. mrsmole says:

    Fingers crossed, Kate! That you for your comments…we women know our own shapes and are always in search of something flattering…such an adventure!

  9. Wead Library says:

    I have that pattern. I really like it except for the tumor which I noticed right off in the book. I just don’t get why you would want a round bulbous protrusion on your one hip. I had plans to make this and do some sort of “ectomy” on it. I will be watching your solution.

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