Inside DVF wrap dress

With all the wrap dresses and patterns for these iconic garment I thought you might like to see inside the real Mc Coy. This week a regular client brought in her DVF dress to be shortened and a snap added to the front closure.

Inside the dress there is the ubiquitous label but I didn’t know that they now have holograms merged into them. This photo did not capture the hologram as it was pretty shiny but you can imagine it.

P1180099 The other label described the fabric content:P1180100 So, no wonder those dress drape so well and look so flattering…silk knit is the key…what a dream to sew!

All the shoulder seams and back neckline have clear elastic in them:

Inside the facing is backed with fused interfacingP1180097P1180096

P1180104 The interfacing goes just past the fold line.P1180095 The back yoke extends to the shoulder seam to be sewn into the sleeve, also with clear elastic inserted. Hang tie ribbons are attached to the underarm seam.


The sleeves finish with a sewn-on cuff:P1180102

The inside is stitched in the ditch from the right side:P1180103 and after attached a black snap to keep the front modest, here we have the dress:P1180106

More silliness from the sewing room…today, I got a call from a bridesmaid needing her bodice taking in and could I do it for her before her flight tomorrow…I wanted to ask, “when did you buy the ticket” but passed her to friend who might be able to whip this out for her.

The other was a bride from India who needs alterations for a Jan 3, 2015 wedding. So some clients have no sense of time and others have so much sense they can plan into the next year. Some March brides have already called to make sure they get their slot before they are filled…good girls!

While trolling through the internet when I get notices from sewing stores in the US pushing sewing classes, I found this:jacket class

Here is a jacket class that says you will emerge with this jacket at the end of 5 hours and $45 fee. Would you pay for this class? For those who ask me what are “drag lines”…have a gander at this puppy…I only wish we could see the back view!

Don’t forget to check out the winner and loser this week at the FabricMart challenge and vote for your favorite who was able to do the best job of copying RTW…should be really interesting to see the photos up close! Last week Ann did a superb job! And is anyone following Tim Gunn and the contestants on Project Runway…that Kini does amazing work!

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24 Responses to Inside DVF wrap dress

  1. Ooo…always fun to see how the designers finish their garments…at least the good ones 🙂 I’ve never used that clear plastic elastic, but see it in RTW all the time. What’s the scoop on it?

    Project Runway is mildly interesting to me this season. At least in what we’re shown, there doesn’t seem to be a great deal of interesting work going on. Kini is just amazing – I’d love to be able to sew like he does! Sean’s fun ‘Rainway’ and Kini’s neat umbrella dress (those gloves were SEWN AS ONE PIECE WITH THE SLEEVES! HOW does that even happen???) were really both great pieces, for different reasons. Haven’t seen anything I’d like to ‘copy’ yet…but in past seasons there have been some really great stuff!

    • mrsmole says:

      The elastic is serged into the seams and I think it must be there to keep shapes and give rebound for the knit. It is also a nice filler for that serged hollow seam. Maybe another reader knows more about the reason other than recovery and stretch??? Sean’s Rainway dress reminded me of those Jell-o cakes back in the 60’s and 70’s where flavored Jell-o is used with white cakes for the same effect…so dramatic and he took quite the risk! Who knows how to make an umbrella dress with gloves? Holey Moley!

  2. Angela says:

    1) LOVE the DVF dress photos! I’ve never seen the real thing before, and thoroughly enjoy learning how items like this were produced.
    2) Glad to know that some brides know to call early!
    3) Ummmm…. really? You pay for a class and THAT is the finished product? Mrs. Mole, in the somewhat short time since I learned about your blog, you’ve taught me so much about fit. While I am miles away from knowing as much as I would like to know about achieving GOOD fit, I keep making progress 🙂 and would not be tempted to pay for that class.
    4) Kini is amazing… that upsidedown umbrella dress? wowza….. even Tim seemed to be impressed. Wonder where/how Kini learned to sew. Anyone know?
    5) I keep thinking about/rereading the recent posts about properly fitting sleeves. I finished my daughter’s new PJ pants today, and am about to start a simple T-shirt for her. (She has the body of a runway model – no kidding – and finding clothes that fit is a challenge. Sewing is great, once I know how to properly fit things). The last shirt did not have properly fitting sleeves, although I didn’t realize it at the time. The stripes are most definitely going uphill! I never thought they looked great, but wasn’t really sure what was going on….. This next version will definitely be improved, and I am excited to see the finished product. Thank you for all your help!

    • mrsmole says:

      So glad you are getting some fun and knowledge from this blog. I just share what works for me, it is not gospel and there are hundreds of books and teachers out there who can make miracles too. As the Project Runway goes along I think more will be revealed about Kini especially if he is one of the last 3 standing. I’m going to take the last gingham sleeve off the jacket and do more things to it as a test because there is always a different way to get the same result.

  3. maryglenn says:

    I just shortened and added snaps to two of these myself. The silk knit is really beautiful. I love how people want something done the next day. Did that girl think you were sitting waiting off her to call!

    • mrsmole says:

      Apparently so, Mary…but other seamstresses in town all tell me the same thing so we are all being called very late in the game! I think if one of us had a sewing machine parked and plugged in at the airport departure lounge we would make a fortune!

  4. Tee says:

    OMG! I get those type distress calls too!!! On the other hand, I had a mom call last week to secure her spot for a prom gown for next spring. That’s my kind of client!! No way would I take that class, that jacket is so unflattering!!! Thanks so much for featuring the DFW dress!!!

  5. Tee says:

    opps meant DVF dress! 🙂

  6. Theresa says:

    I think this season on Project Runway has been my favorite. Kini is amazing, what skill. Wonder what he would think of that jacket you show. I think I’ve seen that pic somewhere before…..
    Lovely wrap dress, nice to know you get something worthwhile with a designer label in some case.
    Where was it made just out curiosity?

    • mrsmole says:

      Hey Theresa, the label said China. I didn’t know that labels started having holograms…must be to prevent counterfeiting? I’m sure you have seen that jacket before or others like it. Maybe it would have looked better on a mannequin?

  7. symondezyn says:

    I’ve always wanted to sew with silk jersey – it seems like the perfect marriage of comfort and luxury 🙂 And LOL at that jacket – often when I am considering a fabric for a project, I drape it over my shoulders and flounce around the house in it… and it usually has a better fit than that jacket does! LOL

    I’ve GOT to figure out if we get Project Runway on our cable set… I used to watch it but it disappeared and I haven’t found it since – they really need to put that on Netflix!! ^_^

    • mrsmole says:

      Now I picture you Amanda dashing around the house draped in fabric…lovely! And with less wrinkles than the finished jacket…amazing! Project Runway (MyLifeTime) used to be on a different network (Bravo) so dig around. You can also see past shows online on the website. Where does one find silk jersey? My JoAnn’s probably will NEVER carry it right next to the bolts of polar fleece piled high to the ceiling!

      • symondezyn says:

        LOL!! I wish I was kidding but I actually did this very thing just yesterday, and it happens every time I buy new fabric… which is too often! LOL I have fabric wrinkles but they are GOOD wrinkles… lovely drapey flowy wrinkles haha ^__^

        I will dig around for Project Runway, someone has to have it somewhere 😛

        Oh and I know what you mean – our local Fabricland (the Canadian equivalent of JoAnns) would have to do away with their giant selection of hideous poly prints, cheap poly bridal fabrics and quilting cottons to make room for anything as lush as silk jersey – heaven forbid! Mood Fabrics carries a wide variety of lovely luscious silk jerseys, (and they JUST started shipping internationally!) but they are expensive so I am waiting until I get married so I can justify the expense LOL.

  8. Robyn says:

    Thank you for showing the guts of this beautiful dress! It’s encouraging to see that, with the right fabric, we can achieve the same effect. We can even buy the DVF pattern, although I understand it’s hard to find. Very inspiring! I really do appreciate looking under the hood.
    As far as alteration scheduling, notice one is a bridesmaid and the others are brides! I was so happy to be able to shorten my daughter’s bridesmaid dress. She simply hated spending more money on alterations for a dress she would never choose for herself or ever wear again (all the girls needed alterations – and the dresses were $500 off the rack). I hounded her about taking it to someone until she ran out of time and stuffed the whole mess in a FedEx bag to me…oh wait….maybe that was her plan all along! 😉

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Robyn…the last sentence says it ALL….knowing her mother is a cracker jack seamstress makes a daughter drag her feet because her mom will bail her out. Those FedEx folks have a lot to answer for…ha ha Seeing the inside of dresses does help us understand why out efforts succeed or fail. It is no use seeing a construction problem done the right way AFTER we have finished our garment. Taking apart wedding gowns is such a treat (sometimes) that I tell Mr Mole that I cannot believe that I am so lucky to be paid for doing it! Wishing I could have everyone in my sewing room when I remove a zipper, take in or let out the seam, and slap it back in so they could gain confidence when their turn comes. You would think that there is only one way to attach horsehair braid to a hem but there are loads, some easier than others but only after doing hundreds so your see what the designer was going for.Every day is a learning opportunity! Thanks for your nice comments!

      • Robyn says:

        I would have been in a world of trouble without Bunny’s tutorial on tiny hems posted on her blog,
        I offered, but didn’t know what I was getting myself into. That tute saved the day, as have many of your tips and tricks. Thank you!

  9. BeaJay says:

    That’s it. I am thinking of going into the sewing class business. If this is the standard, even I can produce something like that LOL. Love that DVF dress. And as always your stories of requests make me laugh.

    • mrsmole says:

      I’m sure you could teach a great jacket class with all you creations you have done for yourself and toss in a few nice blouses as well!!! In your spare time perhaps???

  10. girl in the stix says:

    I enjoyed looking at the inside of the DVF wrap dress. Was there clear elastic around the neckline as well? (Sorry if I missed that) I understand that helps the opening fit more closely to the body, preventing gaposis. Thanks for sharing.

    • mrsmole says:

      There was no elastic in the front wrap panels as you can see in the photos, just fused interfacing to just over the foldline. The back neck did have elastic under the yoke.

  11. sewruth says:

    I just love a peek inside, simply because i don’t own any genuine designer garments so it’s really interesting and so instructive. Thank you

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