Nancy’s Jacket

Remember the last post with the jacket muslin? Well, Nancy is back from her trip and ready for her fitting. Maybe those of you who have been following along as we add to Nancy’s wardrobe know that there are certain alterations that pop up every time and this pattern is no exception.

First we see the muslin as it is:24 front

It looks as bad on her as it did on the mannequin…how about the back view?26 back You can see the back sections are too wide and the yoke line is curving up…what shall we do? How about the side view?25 side Lovely drag lines are pointing to the bust line which seem to be shooting up instead of parallel with the floor.

Some of you have asked in the past…where do I start? I always start at the back yoke area because patterns cheat us there…the horizontal grain line is curving up and needs a slash to bring it down…let’s do it!27 slash back Counting the gingham squares we see one inch is needed and also the center back needs tapering in. I will also start pinning a vertical tuck from the shoulder seam to the hip in back and shoulder seam to the bust in front to narrow the shoulder and side back areas.29 side Back is done so let’s move on to the front.28 front I removed the one sleeve to allow me to slash all the way across the bust line into the armscye. In previous patterns/muslins you will remember that when we add the front slash it not only drops the front grain line but also allows the sides to swing out wider so the actual side seams will be pinned out 1/2 inch. A few more tweaks for the right lower front pieces:31 right side And now for the left…lumpectomy. Seeing as the sections curve out as a convex circle , I will pin out a concave dart to bring the fabric back into the body.32 left side Each of these curved darts will be transferred to the paper pattern sections and we will see how flat they can become. Even if they are not perfect we will still keep the integrity of the original design since that is what compelled Nancy to purchase the pattern in the first place…those cool angles and lines but without the lump. I also discovered that the armholes could come up 1/2 inch or so and that will be added to the paper as well. Yes, the sleeves will change a bit if the armholes of the bodice change but you have been following the sleeve cap saga. Since I added an inch to the front armscye, that will also be added to the front of the sleeve. As we progress I will put all the photos and steps in a Pinterest page like before but before I leave I want to share some photos from the Alabama Chanin projects.

Ruth of Corecouture has been really busy creating gorgeous outfits with the book and I had bought the class on Craftsy and finally finished watching. I used all those $5 t-shirts as fodder for the first try. Here is the first hand drawn zebra motif:

P1180042P1180107 The technique involves either spray painting the shapes or stenciling the shapes on first before stitching and cutting away the top layer. Since I have no desire to use paint around the bridal dresses, I drew the shapes with a fine tip marker. Unlike Ruth, I have been using a back stitch instead of the running stitch. It takes much longer, uses 3 times as much thread but I like it.

Wishing all of your a super sewing week while leaves start to fall outside!


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23 Responses to Nancy’s Jacket

  1. Laura says:

    If my muslin had turned out as wonky as that one before you began fixing it, I would have wadded the thing up and vowed never to buy anything from that company again. I admire your patience, and your way with words.

    • mrsmole says:

      Wonky…that’s me…I love things that others don’t. Fitting muslins and cutting out fabric gives me pleasure in the designing side and eventful altering of the paper. Thank you for your comment and for visiting!

  2. What an education! The more of your wonderful posts I read, the better I understand the importance of checking the fit on a muslin. Thanks for sharing all your marks and lines and cuts and the whys with us! It makes it easy to see how relatively small adjustments make HUGE differences in fit and style.

    I may actually purchase some muslin now instead of just going for wearable ones…:) Thanks again! Let me know if you ever do an online class…!

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Cheryl, aren’t you sweet! My free classes are right here for you…albeit on a model, Nancy. I just hope some of the pattern problems can be helped by being bold with muslin fabric and gingham and a ruler and drawing lines up, down and sideways.There are plenty of classes all over the internet if you want spend $19 plus but maybe what you are looking for will show up on this blog or you can send photos to me privately for help.

      • Angela says:

        I doubt those $19 classes would be as informative as your posts! I’m right there with carolinascallin – if you ever did an online class, I’d be the first to sign up! Your pictures are so very helpful – the lines marked clearly, explaining what the drag lines are showing, etc.

  3. Lynda says:

    It is so interesting to watch your fitting process, and how much better the garment looks on her body, and how slimming it gets as each step gets completed. I just learn so much from these posts!

    Love your “zebra stripe” tee. A little creativity and fun along with work always makes things go faster.

    • mrsmole says:

      Thanks, Lynda, I hope to make the zebra into a vest once it is lined and bound but the bridal gowns still beckon from across the sewing room….”Don’t forget about us!”.

  4. sewruth says:

    So, just to make this absolutely clear – you sew lace and silk and satin, then move on to cotton jersey, all the while you are perfectly fitting Nancy? Oh, and cultivating strangely shaped vegetables on your garden. Have I got that right or fallen down the rabbit hole?

    • mrsmole says:

      Yes, that is true…but I do get up every night to have a real sewing fest just to keep up so I don’t lead a normal life nor have a real sleep until January. You know how addictive the AC techniques are and once you make the decision to skip the paint part…you can fly along with home made plastic stencils and felt tip markers. Using 3 strands of cotton embroidery floss instead of 4 also makes the job slicker. But Ruth, I only have the shirts done…they are not garments yet or anything I could wear in public like your gorgeous clothes!!!!

  5. EasilyAmewsed says:

    Please thank Nancy for helping us further our learning. : ) Like Laura said, I would have considered this a lost cause and given up. This is a lot like watching Lynda Maynard on Craftsy. Look forward to seeing how this all gets transferred to flat pattern. That’s the part that’s hard for me to grasp.

  6. mrsmole says:

    I love Lynda Maynard! I have her CD:

    and signed up for her sheath dress fitting class…one of these days i will finish watching but I refer to her book on finishing edges all the time. Flat pattern adjustments coming up…I’m excited about that too!

  7. Valerie says:

    Your adjustments are amazing. Especially at the yoke. I love a puzzle but I would have thrown this pattern to wadderville too.

    • mrsmole says:

      Wadderville…somewhere near Rippit and Ditchit. I think the yoke slash is so important as we age or spend hours hunched over a keyboard. Adding a 1/2 inch or more makes a world of difference especially if you are using a plaid or horizontal stripe.

  8. girl in the stix says:

    Thanks for taking the time for showing us your alterations–I’m about to start a muslin for a simple raglan sleeved jacket–nothing as complicated as what you are working on. I’ll certainly refer to this!

  9. Ines says:

    Wow!!! I love all the detailed information, I’m a newbie sewing person ( wouldn’t dare to call myself a seamstress) and all this info is like discovering fire!

  10. mrsmole says:

    Welcome Ines….I hope you can use anything I post!

  11. I have learned so much from you. I also can’t wait for the flat pattern transfer. I always get lost there. Thanks for your posts.

  12. Shams says:

    Wow, what an astonishing number of alterations. I do admire this pattern, but I know I would have to alter it quite a bit to fit me, so I have not attempted it. I looooooooooove your version of Alabama Chanin!!!

  13. mrsmole says:

    Thank you, Shams…the AC project was easier than I thought once I gave up the paint stage and just drew what I wanted on the knit. I’ll bet you could come up with some unique stencils from a computer. Once the KT jacket pattern is tamed it should be really nice especially if Nancy wants contrasting fabrics.

  14. So many alterations!! You gotta love this job, otherwise it wouldn’t be worth it!

    • mrsmole says:

      Yes, Lena…I do love it and especially the Pattern Perfection side of the business. I hope to have the alteration on the paper done for the next post in 2 weeks.

  15. jillybe says:

    You are SO much braver than I. I love this pattern, but hate the fit as it shows on the pattern. You know just what to do, but oh me gosh, ALL those alterations!!!! ::::runs the other way:::

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