Remember the last post with the jacket muslin? Well, Nancy is back from her trip and ready for her fitting. Maybe those of you who have been following along as we add to Nancy’s wardrobe know that there are certain alterations that pop up every time and this pattern is no exception.
It looks as bad on her as it did on the mannequin…how about the back view? You can see the back sections are too wide and the yoke line is curving up…what shall we do? How about the side view? Lovely drag lines are pointing to the bust line which seem to be shooting up instead of parallel with the floor.
Some of you have asked in the past…where do I start? I always start at the back yoke area because patterns cheat us there…the horizontal grain line is curving up and needs a slash to bring it down…let’s do it! Counting the gingham squares we see one inch is needed and also the center back needs tapering in. I will also start pinning a vertical tuck from the shoulder seam to the hip in back and shoulder seam to the bust in front to narrow the shoulder and side back areas. Back is done so let’s move on to the front. I removed the one sleeve to allow me to slash all the way across the bust line into the armscye. In previous patterns/muslins you will remember that when we add the front slash it not only drops the front grain line but also allows the sides to swing out wider so the actual side seams will be pinned out 1/2 inch. A few more tweaks for the right lower front pieces: And now for the left…lumpectomy. Seeing as the sections curve out as a convex circle , I will pin out a concave dart to bring the fabric back into the body. Each of these curved darts will be transferred to the paper pattern sections and we will see how flat they can become. Even if they are not perfect we will still keep the integrity of the original design since that is what compelled Nancy to purchase the pattern in the first place…those cool angles and lines but without the lump. I also discovered that the armholes could come up 1/2 inch or so and that will be added to the paper as well. Yes, the sleeves will change a bit if the armholes of the bodice change but you have been following the sleeve cap saga. Since I added an inch to the front armscye, that will also be added to the front of the sleeve. As we progress I will put all the photos and steps in a Pinterest page like before but before I leave I want to share some photos from the Alabama Chanin projects.
Ruth of Corecouture has been really busy creating gorgeous outfits with the book and I had bought the class on Craftsy and finally finished watching. I used all those $5 t-shirts as fodder for the first try. Here is the first hand drawn zebra motif:
The technique involves either spray painting the shapes or stenciling the shapes on first before stitching and cutting away the top layer. Since I have no desire to use paint around the bridal dresses, I drew the shapes with a fine tip marker. Unlike Ruth, I have been using a back stitch instead of the running stitch. It takes much longer, uses 3 times as much thread but I like it.
Wishing all of your a super sewing week while leaves start to fall outside!