Jacket Paper Pattern Alterations

After pinning Nancy into her jacket and seeing all the areas that needed to be narrowed and flattened you are thinking…how is all that going to come together?

This week the muslin-back-to-paper changes are revealed. Let’s start with the back section since we started with that in the pinning.1-back-folded The muslin has been taken apart to make this easier to duplicate the changes. The paper pattern is placed on top each piece and the same changes are made.2-back-marked The shoulders and back side need to be narrowed so 2 parallel lines are drawn 3/4 inch apart. The lines in the above photo were just drawn on the muslin before I removed the pins. 4-back-paper-on-top5-back-lines-drawn8-back-done Here you can see the 1 inch slash across the center back and paper added. There is the new center back stitching line at the waist and the shoulders narrowed down to the waist but then allowed to fan out towards the hips.9-9-right-side-back This right back section is also attached to the back and needed to be narrowed. There is also a similar left section.10-front-marked The right front has lines drawn on the muslin, again narrow the shoulders to the notch area and take in at the waist.16-right-front-trimmed The front gets a new paper strip and trimmed on the side seam. Dropping the front 1 inch will make me raise the armscye later the same 1 inch front and back so the sleeve will fit. Since the front is a flat piece of fabric with no shaping, I can add a 1/2 inch dart (total 1 inch) to give the jacket some bust shaping from the armscye but that will come later on the mannequin or on Nancy.15-match-shoulders Whatever you do to the back shoulder, you have to duplicate with the front since they sew together. You can also see the neck may be taken in 1/2 inch to tighten it up.12-middle-right-side The middle right section just needed to be narrowed and the lower right as well:11-lower-right-front Saving the toughest part for last…the dreaded left side with the tumor/pouch. Remember on Nancy, I pinned out 4 small darts to remove the excess fabric to flatten it out. To make this all work the left front sections will have to be removed and treated separately. Let’s see the left top section…same shoulder treatment as the right side:23-left-front-trimmed Now the lower sections:17-darts-to-flatten Once marked with pen and pins removed the darts lines are visible.18-separate-sections19-lower-section-darts-clos I cut through one leg of the lower darts and overlap them and pin flat.20-middle-section-darts21-middle-dart-closed

The middle section darts are closed and flat. Now let’s see if the match up?22-pin-together Happy Days! Now let’s lay the paper on top and do the same again.26-middle-section-left-pape27-lower-sections-pinned Can you see the little section between the middle and lower sections that has the dotted lines? It needs a little paper there to fill in:28-add-paper

One more section to be altered and added on the left side:25-left-front-side-trimmed Now that all the paper and muslin has been altered and trimmed, it all has to be put back together and sewn to prove the point. Let’s take a break for a Diet Dr Pepper….

OK, breaktime is over…let’s baste the jacket without the sleeves and see what we have:30-flat-front

Pretty nice isn’t it? Once the puffiness was removed, we have a very interesting curved shape on left side that will certainly create interest if done in contrasting colors/textures. As before, I will have these and more photos up on my Pinterest page when they are all assembled in one batch.

Next time I will show the sleeves and armscye changes…I’m sure your brain is on overload by now. Maybe you are thinking, “why go to all this trouble?” And my answer is always, “Why Not?” It gets me away from the brides and I love cutting up paper.

Before I go I want to share the second Alabama Chanin sample I made using a homemade plastic stencil and that same backstitch and embroidery floss technique. What you realize as you do these is how long it take to go around each leaf and knot and cut every thread. It was much faster doing the free-form zebra stripes! The technique calls for pinning the 2 layers together but I opted for just basting every 6 inches.blue-fullblue-section

blue-done-frontblue-done-back Not sure what this and the zebra print will be but maybe just vests, lined with something slippery or fuzzy for warmth.

Thanks for hanging in there with me for all the pattern changes…have a super week of creating your own wonderful garments!

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14 Responses to Jacket Paper Pattern Alterations

  1. Tracey Greider says:

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! Your lessons are so valuable. Seeing how to get it all back to the paper pattern makes all of it make so much more sense. I feel like I can accomplish this myself after reading your blog and beginning on alterations that are a little (or lot) easier to do!

  2. mrsmole says:

    Thankfully not all alterations are so complicated!!! Thanks for dropping by, Tracey!

  3. Kansas sky says:

    I love this process and am eager for more. THANK YOU! Can’t wait for next lesson.

  4. Kansas sky says:

    ALSO may I say: you amaze me. So glad I found your blog.

  5. accordion3 says:

    Oh my! So looking forward to seeing the final jacket.

  6. Tia Dia says:

    This is completely amazing. I love all your detailed photos (and I know it’s a PITA to document) and explanations and before and after pictures. Brilliant post. Thank you!

    • mrsmole says:

      Actually it is really time-consuming making all the lines and arrows on the photos…ha ha but I love showing you all the steps I use. It’s not always the regular way of doing things…it is just the way my brain works to get to the same end.

  7. June says:

    I love the “Why not?” response – I admire a woman who takes on a challenge with glee. Rock on!

  8. mrsmole says:

    Thanks, June….the patterns beg me to alter them…really…I just comply…ha ha.

  9. Stephanie says:

    Thank you for sharing all of those detailed photos. I also love the response, “Why not?” Good for you!!Thanks too for sharing the Alabama Chanin sample. I had never heard of the company but now I want to buy the book.

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