Nancy Returns

Yes, it is the final fitting of the jacket muslin Butterick 6106 after all the paper work and pinning and folding and taping and measuring ….TA DA!


You will see a few additions like 1/2 inch armscye darts to compensate for the 1 inch gingham patch and the front panels lie flatter now…the pouch on the left front is almost gone. The sleeve still need more cap height and the neck edge is still too wide.

2-right-side We will shorten the top neck edge by 1 inch, take in the center back and let out the side back seams at the hip area. Also a swayback tuck will be added in later photos and on paper.3-back The gingham patch will be widened by 1/2 inch so the yoke area relaxes down.4-left-side You can see the left front panel needs more fabric folded out to lie flatter.8-final-pin-out Here it is pinned out like a huge dart and this will be transferred to paper in later photos. The total excess fabric is 2.5 inches at the hem narrowing to nothing at the top.

5-left-sleeve As far as the sleeves, I have re-pinned the blue (second) gingham sleeve to make the horizontal bicep line parallel with the floor. The red shoulder seamline will be shown in the paper alterations.7-dart Here you can see that the dart needs to be re-angled to point to the bust point.


Let’s transfer the left front folds to paper,

9-first-line  first make the vertical line,10-fold-lines then draw in the actual fold lines from the muslin, fold out the excess and pin or tape down. This alteration makes the 2 middle and lower strips become more curved and actually more interesting.11-folded

12-back The back will get the extra 1/2 inch added to the upper patch, the swayback is folded out and pinned down (1.2 inch total to nothing at the side seam) and the extra 1/2 inch added in the hip area.

How about the sleeves? So glad you asked…I have measured the front armhole and back armhole and they measure 11.75 inches (front) and 12.50 (back) then the sleeve with the added cap height measures 12 inches (front) and 13 inches (back). We have 1/4 to ease in the front and 1/2 inch to ease in the back. I think for a jacket this will be acceptable and the fabric is a linen/cotton blend that will work well. You can see that the second gingham sleeve had the added portion that I have shown before. If I had not added it, we would have run out of seam allowance for the muslin fitting. This way I know how much extra was needed. Again I use the CLTL technique…cut large, trim later…it’s only fabric.13-sleeve-cap


Add tissue paper, re-trace seam and cutting lines and measure and record.


The jacket fabric will need some time to talk to me and tell me what motifs…flowers, buildings, words etc will want to go where to look the best on Nancy. She bought 4 yards of this 60 inch wide material and said that with the leftover fabric I could make myself a matching jacket and we could go out to lunch together…ahhh…maybe not! Lunch OK…matchy matchy…nope!


The fabric is washed and dried and ready for cutting but I still have more brides to finish!

How about this:     7-5-point-bustle A bustle that requires 2 more points than in the photo for a total of 7 points just to get it off the floor. So much fabric and weight will really be hard to dance in and maneuver but the brides seem to need these huge trains to be happy…go figure.

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16 Responses to Nancy Returns

  1. Shams says:

    Nancy’s jacket is going to be beautiful! I love her choice of fabric and how nice to gift you with the extra. (But you’ve certainly earned it with such thorough and extensive alterations!

  2. mrsmole says:

    Thank you, Shams…now you can re-create this interesting jacket as well now that I have done all the possible alterations for you! I am hoping that we can throw in some piping, contrasting facings and panels and fun buttons to jazz it up. Your jackets really are an inspiration!

  3. Can’t wait to see it made up in this fabulous fabric now that you have solved the fitting issues.

  4. jay says:

    Fascinating watching the fit process. The fabric is rather special, I can see why it needs a bit of thought time to work out pattern placement.

  5. mrsmole says:

    Do we want roses or buildings or words on the boobs and butt? Tough decision!

  6. Tracey Greider says:

    Such a fabulous learning process for those of us who have just looked at these patterns and said “like the idea, but know it won’t fit”. I have tried over and over to make Tilton designs, and have finally given up, I can never get them to fit and don’t like them well enough to go through what you have. I will definitely take what you are giving us and apply it to other patterns. Thank you!!

    • mrsmole says:

      You are welcome, Tracey. The more I test patterns on Nancy and myself and my duct tape dummy I realize that these patterns need more vertical length both front and back. If you cut the patterns right from the envelope the fabrics can flare away from the body and have drag lines. Also with this one jacket, it had so many pieces that had to lie flat…so the challenge was there from the beginning.

  7. Tia Dia says:

    The fitting process you have shared for this jacket is a bit awe-inspring to me. I’m learning so much about those pesky drag lines and adding and subtracting, but mostly that I’m shy of the work involved in fitting properly. Cannot wait to see the final result.

  8. Beautiful fabric. It’s going to fit beautifully too with your expertise!

  9. fabrickated says:

    It is certainly beginning to look like a wearable garment at last. But I, for one, was pretty surprised by the fabric choice – I was imagining it in a plain navy or something. She has chosen a really interesting graphic/floral print. Nancy is quite a girl, isn’t she? And what a hoot to think of the pair of you going out together in twinnie outfits. That is something I would like to see.

  10. prttynpnk says:

    Nancy’s fabric is lovely!!! You know, sometimes it takes a lot of points to get me off the floor too…..

  11. mrsmole says:

    But you have the doggies to urge you up….

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