Yes, it is the final fitting of the jacket muslin Butterick 6106 after all the paper work and pinning and folding and taping and measuring ….TA DA!
You will see a few additions like 1/2 inch armscye darts to compensate for the 1 inch gingham patch and the front panels lie flatter now…the pouch on the left front is almost gone. The sleeve still need more cap height and the neck edge is still too wide.
We will shorten the top neck edge by 1 inch, take in the center back and let out the side back seams at the hip area. Also a swayback tuck will be added in later photos and on paper. The gingham patch will be widened by 1/2 inch so the yoke area relaxes down. You can see the left front panel needs more fabric folded out to lie flatter. Here it is pinned out like a huge dart and this will be transferred to paper in later photos. The total excess fabric is 2.5 inches at the hem narrowing to nothing at the top.
As far as the sleeves, I have re-pinned the blue (second) gingham sleeve to make the horizontal bicep line parallel with the floor. The red shoulder seamline will be shown in the paper alterations. Here you can see that the dart needs to be re-angled to point to the bust point.
Let’s transfer the left front folds to paper,
first make the vertical line, then draw in the actual fold lines from the muslin, fold out the excess and pin or tape down. This alteration makes the 2 middle and lower strips become more curved and actually more interesting.
How about the sleeves? So glad you asked…I have measured the front armhole and back armhole and they measure 11.75 inches (front) and 12.50 (back) then the sleeve with the added cap height measures 12 inches (front) and 13 inches (back). We have 1/4 to ease in the front and 1/2 inch to ease in the back. I think for a jacket this will be acceptable and the fabric is a linen/cotton blend that will work well. You can see that the second gingham sleeve had the added portion that I have shown before. If I had not added it, we would have run out of seam allowance for the muslin fitting. This way I know how much extra was needed. Again I use the CLTL technique…cut large, trim later…it’s only fabric.
Add tissue paper, re-trace seam and cutting lines and measure and record.
The jacket fabric will need some time to talk to me and tell me what motifs…flowers, buildings, words etc will want to go where to look the best on Nancy. She bought 4 yards of this 60 inch wide material and said that with the leftover fabric I could make myself a matching jacket and we could go out to lunch together…ahhh…maybe not! Lunch OK…matchy matchy…nope!
The fabric is washed and dried and ready for cutting but I still have more brides to finish!
How about this: A bustle that requires 2 more points than in the photo for a total of 7 points just to get it off the floor. So much fabric and weight will really be hard to dance in and maneuver but the brides seem to need these huge trains to be happy…go figure.