The most requested alteration other than a hem or a sweetheart neckline is to the bust. Brides want to look voluptuous even if they are not.
So when I explain that the very un-natural rounded shape of the boned bust of their dress needs some padding (push up bust cups), they jump at the chance to have cleavage for the photos. But here are 2 brides that had different issues.
First up we have a corset back dress that needed the modesty panel cut in half:
so the result is: OK back is sorted out…let’s move on to the bust. Now no matter what padding we put in the bust area, it just is not enough to look natural without making the dress pull away from her chest. So we go for the second option, the dreaded bust dart in lace. You have all seen me do this before in this post but this time we have the added bonus of top edge piping…oh goodie!
Turn the dress lining inside out and mark the lining too.
Place the pins down the center of the dart for easy manipulation/folding and grabbing. Pin it flat: Hand baste it with white thread. Inside the bodice you can see an unusual sight of horsehair braid sewn right under the bust line for stability and thick twill tape covering the top of the boning along with the original bust pad. The piping on the right hand side is loose at this time.
Here is the bust dart in the lace hand basted and ready to try on along with the lining hand basted too. The piping is cut so it will disappear gradually at the junction. Another view from the very inside lining.
Lining darts and bodice darts will be pressed flat and the piping will be trimmed off.
Baste bodice to lining with piping tuck inside the seam for try-on.
Permanent machine stitching done and the finished top edge…ahhh. Now the rounded boning has been padded (see new tan bust cup in side) and the fullness of the bust area has been brought in closer to her chest with no gaps.
OK, tall skinny girl sorted out but what about a pear shaped bride who had to order a size 24 dress to fit her hips?
The bust area has been widened and deepened way beyond what is normal or necessary and there is horizontal boning as well joining all the other verticals. This puppy is made to withstand anything! But the bride is narrow on top and of average boob-age so even with padding, the center back zipper area has to be taken in 2 inches each side for a total of 4 inches:
Then 17 buttons have to be re-sewn exactly 5/8 inch apart as there are loops on the opposite side that have to match up.
The finished back…have you ever seen this before? There is a very long detached train that snaps to the curved edge of organza for the ceremony…how clever!
The front is now fitting well and hemmed all layers of satin and organza over-skirts.
So that is the little encounter of small busts this week and there are some real disasters coming up that need fixing and time’s a wastin’!
Happy sewing everyone and thank you for your continued viewing of the ASG video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBaIl4uRTac