Bride includes the Groom

For the first time ever, I had a bride include the groom in her preparations!

It seems he likes to dress up and wear pocket squares for an accent of color so she asked me if I would make some squares for him for the wedding to go with the bridesmaids’ colors:P1180713 I’m not sure which one(s) he will chose but I have seen recently that men are wearing more than one color folded into each other. OK, enough about the groom, let’s see what his darling bride needed.

The dress was Wtoo Jemma 18418 which fit pretty well except it had to have the bodice taken in 2.5 inches all the way down the zipper. Once again some 18 buttons had to be removed and the zipper released.P1180626Pins and red thread basting lines mark the new fold lines for zipper placement:


There were a few surprises like a grosgrain ribbon zipper guard attached to the under-lap side of the zipper and some short boning that would have to be removed when the zipper was re-attached.


You can see in the last photo the line of red thread basting that will be the eventual under-lap edge and there is the same thread on the overlap side. Let’s see what happens next…

Here is the under-lap side. The zipper will be stitched along the teeth on the inside (wrong side) , then zipper flipped to the back side and then stitched again on the right side nearest the teeth.P1180636

Here is the set up for the lapped side. Last post someone asked how I sew zippers from the wrong side. Using the line in the woven zipper tape as a guide, I pin the teeth 1/4 inch away from the final folded edge (see the red thread basting?) and then starting at the bottom, stitch all the way up following the pins and pulling them out as I go. See the sequins…well they will be on the underside next to the feed dogs and I don’t have to worry about them. I lengthen my stitch to almost 3 and go slowly. The the lining will be folded under and hand sewn to the zipper edge. I always ask my brides if they want me to cut off any excess fabric as it is nice to leave it in there for the next seamstress.


Once the zipper is in, I have to take in the center back seam from the tail of the zipper to below the bride’s butt so let’s pin out the lace first:

P1180634P1180635 and then the satin underskirt.

Here she is with her veil and the buttons re-attached and the silk satin belt and a eventual 5 point bustle almost done.

P1180697 2P1180780

And this time of year the veggie patch is taking shape:Veggies-150422


Broccoli and lettuce in boxes, loads of seedlings in starter containers on the left bed and the mature fennel and spinach planted last Oct in the right bed.


On the other side of the patch are 4 varieties of beans (new cane wigwam ), new asparagus and raspberry beds. We have 3 new baby semi-dwarf fruit trees coming along too so it should be a great summer once all the squash get planted and the strawberry patch is netted.

But for now, I’d better get back to the brides…happy sewing everyone!

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29 Responses to Bride includes the Groom

  1. prttynpnk says:

    You have made this fit her so well- what a perfect shape for this bride. Lovely.

  2. fabrickated says:

    The shaping is great and she looks super, doesn’t she? Also I just love the idea of two or three pocket handkerchiefs for the groom. Thank you – very creative.

  3. S says:

    The fit is wonderful!

  4. Bunny says:

    It fits her beautifully. You did a great job, Mrs Mole.

  5. Azar Lo says:

    Googled Wtoo 18418. The gown did not look half as good on the pictured model as on your bride. A testament to the bride’s beautiful figure, and, your mad fitting skills.

  6. sewruth says:

    That is a lovely dress. Have you ever thought of designing your own range? You certainly know how the dresses are constructed.

  7. mrsmole says:

    It would be a challenge, Ruth, but the time it takes to create these many-layered dresses would really cut into my altering and drinking time!

  8. Nice to hear of a bride who has acknowledged she s part of a team!
    And the dress is lovely too.

  9. Karen Lyon says:

    The dress is lovely, but I don’t envy you the amount of painstaking work it takes to get it to that stage. I do envy you your garden though.. The trees are just budding where I am. Snow was still in patches up until 2 weeks ago. The days are warm, but the nights still are too cold for planting.. I have a terrible case of latitude envy.

    • mrsmole says:

      The local birds are busy feeding babies now too…doves have made a nest near our front door in a tall bush and take turns sitting on the nest. Watching birds takes my mind away from all that white satin nonsense!

  10. accordion3 says:

    My lover lad (aka the husband) came to choose dresses with me. We had fun! Found a shape we liked, took home a copy of the contract, saw the price and agreed that I would make it. He then did the beading on my dress – just a tiny amount on the wrap bit that went around my shoulders. Beautiful work. Many years later he realised what notions I needed & bought them! Talking 1000m rolls of Gutermann thread, Schmetz needles & super interfacing. DUDE!

  11. Nice work! That is a very pretty dress! I like that you put your pins in the same as I do – I’m doing something right!!!

  12. CarmencitaB says:

    God! All of these buttons are for naught?

    • mrsmole says:

      As they say, “Gilding on the lily”…all for show except a few have elastic loops on the opposite side. I needed a short length of looping once and went into David’s Bridal thinking that they might have a little to buy and they said that none of their dresses have loops…it is all just decoration.

  13. symondezyn says:

    Bahaha! I love that you made such a show about the groom being included and then he gets a short paragraph and promptly kicked to the curb LOL. Really though, I like the idea of coloured squares but you can’t exactly write a whole blog post on squares right? ^_^ The fit on the bride’s dress is fantastic – really nice job!! I love the way the 5-point bustle flatters her figure 🙂

  14. Courtney says:

    What an incredible fit, and that bustle is inspired!

  15. mrsmole says:

    Thank you, Courtney…the dress usually tells you what it needs…I start with 3 like on the first photo and then see the “dog ears” still touching the floor and hike up 2 more sections…we ended up with 5 and it was so pretty…wish I had a photo with the covered buttons instead of the colored safety pins…ha ha!

  16. Geraldine Fiby says:

    how did you learn to do all of this .. you are incredible.. I would be terrified.

    • mrsmole says:

      After sewing for other people and regular clothes for 35 years, I was asked by a bridal salon to alter their dresses. If you look inside of a dress long enough you can see how it is made and where it needs to be worked on. It does require guts to open a dress and then courage to put it back together. It can be scary but it requires patience and to not be in a hurry. Thank you for asking, Geri.

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