In this sewing room filled with all shades of ivory satin and tulle, a nice little project helped me keep my sanity.
Maybe you remember the last floral jacket I made for her with Butterick 3339, a basic shirt pattern with a side bust dart. We eliminated the collar and added patch pockets and lining with 3/4 sleeves. This time she brought me some thicker home dec fabric that had a directional pattern.
It had rows and rows of clouds in shades of grey and salmon and lime green. You can see that the lines ran horizontally which would not flatter so I cut the pattern pieces out to be vertical. Can you do that? There was hardly any difference in stretch crosswise or lengthwise and it had been pre-shrunk to compact the woven threads.
You can see my well-worn paper pattern with the front FBA adjustment and the rounded back adjustment with neck darts so the only thing left to do is think about the direction of the clouds. I cut the fronts to have the clouds face each other and the sleeves to follow that direction too. The back was cut on the fold so the clouds just went one direction.
The designer of this cool gadget is Clarie Cochran who has been making and selling rulers with a French curve on one side and straight edge on the other. Since I have bought all her rulers in the past and love using them for pattern work, she wrote to me and offered me the chance to try out this new tool. Here is the link to her pre-launch on Kickstarter. If you are like me and are tired of turning the measuring tape on its side and tediously working along the curve, this gadget can help. Nancy brought me a new pattern and I was able to measure and compare sleeve caps so quickly by rolling this pizza/rotary cutter type device along the seam allowances. Maybe this may make you think of a surveyor’s wheel. In his new book, The Shirtmaking Workbook, David Page Coffin features this in his tools section. There is even a larger version in the works which would suit even more applications. Sunni of A Fashionable Stitch shares her love of this tool, too .
As with the last floral jacket, this one is lined and edge stitched and topstitched and has self covered shoulder pads with Velcro. Using a very basic shirt pattern allows you to let the fabric do the talking and if you are lucky enough to have scraps that allow you to make pockets that match the front motifs…well that is just a huge bonus!
Here they are lined and ready to attach.
Can you see them? Me either.
Here is Nancy showing off her pockets in her loose summer jacket:
Seven inch vents and the back is 1/2 inch longer for a little style:
The back neck darts hug her shape with no gaping and the sleeve caps are generous enough to allow for lots of movement.
Happy sewing everyone and remember…Drag Lines are your friend…they point to the problem and scream…”add more fabric, add more ease or drop your crotch curve”. Thank you to all the folks who have asked for help offline with their projects…my pleasure!