A stunning Casablanca gown that needed a few things done like shortening the satin skirt and a bustle, but let’s start with the scalloped lace hem. Remember, if you fall in love with one of these and the salon salesgirl tells you the seamstress can shorten it…yes, she can but you will pay for all her labor!
As you know from previous gowns, I pin a huge horizontal tuck from just past the side seams to side seams as the rest becomes the train. Then that tuck is measured for the amount the border will be raised and re-attached. This is one of the few dresses that the lace had a definite repeating motif that could be cut evenly and stitched back on.
Once cut away from the dress, the border is basted by hand higher up and in these photos you can see the original dangling bits underneath that will be trimmed away later. Can you see the line of green thread where the points will be relocated?
All was going well, the second try-on allowed me to tweak the length and then I was ready to machine sew the border back on. Was I excited…no hand sewing this time…the top edge of the border had a track for my needle and into the Juki it went. I got almost to end of the strip when something happened….
As careful as I had been, sewing slowly, the needle hit a glass bead hiding under the border and stuck itself into the fabric. Of course, the machine went nuts into a sort of Parkinsonian shaking episode before I could turn it off. The needle had a real nice curve in it after that. My Juki went to visit my repairman so he could rub out any burs or damage on the bobbin case.
That’s when I realized that you could buy stronger needles than the Organ HA x 1 ones I had been using. Yes, Organ makes HL x 5 in the same sizes so now I have a stack of those waiting for the next tough project. I buy my needles here. Why do I buy Organ needles? Having had Janome and Elna and Juki machines, I find they just work better with them and being slightly shorter in length, the stitching is nicer than using Schmetz ones.
Once the lace was re-attached, the bustle was planned with 3 points for the lace and 3 for the satin underskirt. But there was something wrong.
The bride decided that the dress felt too heavy for our 100+ degree summer temps and asked that I trim off the whole train. So it was done and she had her lace train on its own for some great photos.
And what footwear went with this luscious lace gown…come on let’s all say it together…COWBOY BOOTS!
The garden is still producing for us…Japanese eggplant/courgettes, crookneck squash and cherry tomatoes and Autumn raspberries…thank you Mother Nature!