Nancy’s Sheer Jacket Pattern

Many of you have asked about the sheer jackets that I have made for my client, Nancy.

While the pattern is out-of-print, Vogue 2779, you can still make your own, using a basic shirt or jacket pattern you have already. It has no darts or facings and if you can take your measurements, add some ease, you can do it.

 

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This is the front pattern piece so you can see with the straight-of-grain vertical arrows that it just follows a curve toward the side seams that droop down. The main volume and flare comes below the hips on the side seams but you can vary that anywhere you would like. The large horizontal fold is because Nancy is shorter waisted than the pattern but you can see where her hips are and where the curve begins. Now you can become the designer…want it longer or shorter…draw this out on a piece of paper with your original pattern on top. If you cut it too long, after the shoulders and side seams are pinned or basted together…you can cut off the excess but what you cannot do is add in more volume at the side seams later, so be generous! Remember my mantra: CLTL…cut large, trim later.

P1200064

Let’s check out the back. Do you find it amazing that the measurements are the same for bust and hips…I don’t…this is not rocket science but again you can add like crazy to make more flare and fullness where YOU want it. The center back is on the fold but wouldn’t it be nice to pull the pattern away from the folded fabric and add flare in the center? Wouldn’t those soft folds drape nicely over your butt and hips? I may try this next time. There is a 3/4 inch rounded back alteration (one straight strip across at the yoke area).

You can see this jacket was in 2 lengths 35 and 45 inches long. Nancy has me keep hers at 26 where the fold is…again she is the designer and this is all possible.

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By now you all know that I like to add to the cap of sleeves and then trim it away if I don’t need it but this time since I added to both the shoulder height both front and back this was necessary. I also added to the underarm seams as I did the same on the bodices. Nancy likes 3/4 length sleeves, so you can see the folded under paper…it is your choice.

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So let’s add up what we have in total: Bust 50 inches and Hips 64 inches. Remembering that chiffon drapes like crazy and this jacket is worn over a t-shirt/shell this would fit a size 18-20 and not be too snug.

Here is one I have cut out for myself using silk fabric that Nancy gave to me:P1200087

Since this poor pattern has been used and folded so many time, I pinned it to graphed fabric called Pellon Tru-grid. You can see where I have enlarged it and also moved the center back 2 inches away from the fold for more volume. The waistline fold was opened and flattened to gain 3 inches in length front and back. Since I had enough fabric to make the longer version, I thought…just do it.

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So what do I do first? Pin the side seams WST to make French seams. The side seams take the most abuse so they are done that way. The shoulder seams are just sewn RST and serged together and flipped to the back. Then all the edges which are now one huge circle are narrow hemmed like chiffon. Turn under 1/4 inch or so and stitch right on the very edge with a short stitch like 2.0. Once that is done, flip it to the right side and trim close to the stitching. Press a little and then fold the stitched edge to the inside and stitch again.

All that is left are the sleeves. I first French seam them, hem them and then run a basting stitch for some easing into the armhole although there is very little to ease. Once basted and happy, I machine stitch RST and serge the edges…and you are finished…2-3 hours of work and a gorgeous drapey feminine jacket you can wear all year long over other tops and dresses.

P1200109P1200110 The back length is 39 inches

Want to see more…the Pinterest page has many others to drool over. Wouldn’t this be a quick project for a present for someone who has everything? All you need is 2 yards of 60 inch wide polyester chiffon and with sales and coupons, it might just cost under $15.

Before I go, just a quick photo of the backyard yesterday after a little dusting of snow:

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Can you see that tiny creature in the red circle? That is our resident Anna’s hummingbird breed that stays in our frozen valley all winter when all the other breeds head to Mexico. We make sure there are feeders full for them all over the yard and under the eaves.annas_hummingbird_wickipedia

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Three brides to go before Jan 2016….I can see the end of the tunnel!

Happy Sewing everyone and thank you for dropping by!

 

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31 Responses to Nancy’s Sheer Jacket Pattern

  1. Vancouver Barbara says:

    A beautiful jacket – a gorgeous print. Thanks for showing us the little hummingbird. What a treasure.

  2. MDy says:

    I love the sheer jacket. I especially appreciate your walking us through the process of working it out and putting it on the fabric. It reminded me of something similar I made years ago. The front was longer, but the back didn’t have the long curves (it was a straight hem). I tried extending the bottom edge of the pattern a bit, but it just didn’t seem to hand right on me. So I tried something I’ve seen done – I refolded the fabric on the bias and instead of a ‘fold’ on the pattern, I added seam allowance and a seam It hung beautifully and the seam didn’t seem to matter. I was pleased with it.

    • mrsmole says:

      That bias solution sounds wonderful…thinking about doing that myself on the next one! Thank you, MDy!

      • erniek3 says:

        I am not sure how I missed this before, but it’s almost exactly like the jacket my sister is having me remake for her. And I appreciate the bias trick; the original is linen, and I hoped to make it of something with a little more lifespan in it.

        Thank you Mdy and Mrs Mole. And my sister will thank you too

  3. Lovely jacket. I can imagine how useful this could be – and your instructions are great.
    I love your snowy garden! No snow here in Bewdley but we have already had the flood barriers up once on the river. I would rather have snow 😊

    • mrsmole says:

      I’ve been watching the flood photos in the Daily Mail online…horribly sad and to think some of those folks in the Lake District have gone through this 3 times…and shame on the government! Snow is pretty and keeps things so quiet…it is a gift from Mother Nature.

  4. Tia Dia says:

    That silk fabric is just gorgeous! Sooo pretty and such vibrant colours. Thanks for showing all the pattern tweaking. I’m ridiculously short waisted, too, (15″) so I always fold out above the waist like you did for Nancy, and then make alterations from there. The turquoise colour of her jacket is my DD3’s favourite. I am truly envious of your snow. I don’t think I’ll be seeing any this year, and that is like a slow death sentence to this Northern Canadian born and bred girl. Thanks for sharing the picture of your pretty back yard. And the hummingbird! So so gorgeous. Beauty is all around us, isn’t it, if we just look to see.

  5. mrsmole says:

    When I see the 2 hummers we have right now zipping around the yard and chasing each other I shout at them, “slow down and conserve your body heat!” but they never listen. So now all you have to do is buy some turquoise poly chiffon and make your DD3 smile!

  6. Pretty jacket – and so many possibilities with that pattern! Thanks for the tutorial!

    Love your little hummingbird, too! How funny that he stays with you over the cold winter. Next he’ll be wanting a heated birdhouse…lol!

    Enjoy your holidays and brief respite before bride season resumes!

  7. Tee says:

    It’s been very warm in Maryland, temps reaching the 70s!!! Love the jackets a lot!!! Happy Holidays!!!!

  8. patsijean says:

    Your client has good taste in fabrics! The fabric she gave you is beautiful and the sheer jacket you made of it is lovely.

    • mrsmole says:

      Thanks, Patsijean…the motifs were so large, I thought it just needed a pretty simple pattern. The feel is wonderful, more a charmeuse. Nancy does have great taste in fabrics!

  9. maryfunt says:

    I’m happy to see you managed to squeeze in a little sewing time for yourself. Good luck with your last three brides. I hope they are easy ones. Looks like you will have a beautiful white Christmas.

    • mrsmole says:

      Your last post on how to drape an asymmetrical skirt is just mesmerizing http://cloningcouture.com/ My last 3 brides…2 are easy…the third one…may get a post of her own with photos to gasp at. Why do we get wedding dresses that we should have known better and said NO? So many lessons still to learn in life…ha ha happy Holidays to you, Mary!

  10. A lovely jacket and a pretty fabric choice! Then the next photo is snow! Brrrr! πŸ˜„

  11. Valerie says:

    What a lovely garment. thank you for sharing the instructions and photographs. I like your winter wonderland back yard, no wonder the hummingbirds stick around!

  12. Sam says:

    Lovely jacket – would work well here when we have cooler nights – and I think I could sew it – thanks to your directions πŸ™‚ No snow here – predicted to be 43C (108F) in the next few days, but I am on the southern side of the world – Australian summer!

    • mrsmole says:

      After one of the longest and hottest summers recorded here, it was a delight to see an end to it. 90 rain-free days of 90-114 degrees was enough to wilt me and my veggies! Wishing you a little break from the searing heat and a place to rest with some iced tea or something stronger!

  13. Janee Connor says:

    So great to see this lovely jacket made for YOU! I have this pattern in two size ranges, having used parts of it for a couple of clients – each time changing the jacket design to create the desired look. But I’ve never made the jacket right out of the envelope, in any length. I may have to use some sheer fabric from the stash to make it up, now that I’ve seen yours! Merry Christmas from the Boston area, mrsmole!

    • mrsmole says:

      Do it, Janee…we work hard enough for our beloved clients and could use a little of that precious time for ourselves!!! The reason I even made this was because every time Nancy picks up a new sheer jacket she makes me try on hers to convince me that I need one too…she was right! I see winter has not hit hard yet on your coast. Enjoy the warmer temps until Mother Nature changes her mind. Merry Christmas to you and your family!

  14. sewruth says:

    I suppose this little jacket will have to wait until spring having seen your garden and all. That’s a great pattern too BTW – can’t beat the basics. Lovely fabric too.

  15. fabrickated says:

    I really love the top you made for yourself, the colours and painterly design are just great to lift a simple outfit. Thanks for the great sewing and alteration tips, as usual. Also fascinated about the humming birds. I was overwhelmed with seeing them in Ecuador – so exquisitely colourful and so tiny and varied. I am amazed you have them and that they survive the snow. The picture of your garden looks like it is in black and white, apart from the red bird feeder.

    I am glad the wedding dresses are nearly all done. What a relief to just chill out once Christmas comes and enjoy the outlook even if it is a bit cold out there.

    • mrsmole says:

      Only 3 dresses to go next week and then a bit of a breather. We are so lucky we have one variety of hummers who can tolerate snow. They sort of evolved here…maybe left behind by their more adventurous cousins who head to Mexico in Sept. You do have to keep feeders out all winter and make sure they are frost free as there are no flowers or insects around. I see you have been having some delightful weather in the UK for a shocking winter and the stores are having trouble selling woolly clothes. If anyone needs inspiration, your blog is the place to go! http://fabrickated.com/

  16. Bunny says:

    Love your top and thanks for the tutorial. It looks like it will be one of the timeless, use a lot, garments. You never can have too many of those!

    Question: Why did you add more to the top of the sleeve cap? I’m usually cutting mine back. Is this to accommodate a rounder shoulder area? Just curious and TIA.

  17. mrsmole says:

    Well, Bunny after making lots of that same pattern for Nancy, I noticed that the sleeve cap was always a bit skimpy but in the chiffon ones it is not so noticeable. Using this silk charmeuse it had to have a little more ease up at the top to hang properly. I always figure I can trim away the cap but once cut, I can never add any so it is my insurance policy…like carrying an umbrella that you may never open. The new jacket will surely be used once summer returns to the valley!

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