Many of you have asked about the sheer jackets that I have made for my client, Nancy.
While the pattern is out-of-print, Vogue 2779, you can still make your own, using a basic shirt or jacket pattern you have already. It has no darts or facings and if you can take your measurements, add some ease, you can do it.
This is the front pattern piece so you can see with the straight-of-grain vertical arrows that it just follows a curve toward the side seams that droop down. The main volume and flare comes below the hips on the side seams but you can vary that anywhere you would like. The large horizontal fold is because Nancy is shorter waisted than the pattern but you can see where her hips are and where the curve begins. Now you can become the designer…want it longer or shorter…draw this out on a piece of paper with your original pattern on top. If you cut it too long, after the shoulders and side seams are pinned or basted together…you can cut off the excess but what you cannot do is add in more volume at the side seams later, so be generous! Remember my mantra: CLTL…cut large, trim later.
Let’s check out the back. Do you find it amazing that the measurements are the same for bust and hips…I don’t…this is not rocket science but again you can add like crazy to make more flare and fullness where YOU want it. The center back is on the fold but wouldn’t it be nice to pull the pattern away from the folded fabric and add flare in the center? Wouldn’t those soft folds drape nicely over your butt and hips? I may try this next time. There is a 3/4 inch rounded back alteration (one straight strip across at the yoke area).
You can see this jacket was in 2 lengths 35 and 45 inches long. Nancy has me keep hers at 26 where the fold is…again she is the designer and this is all possible.
By now you all know that I like to add to the cap of sleeves and then trim it away if I don’t need it but this time since I added to both the shoulder height both front and back this was necessary. I also added to the underarm seams as I did the same on the bodices. Nancy likes 3/4 length sleeves, so you can see the folded under paper…it is your choice.
So let’s add up what we have in total: Bust 50 inches and Hips 64 inches. Remembering that chiffon drapes like crazy and this jacket is worn over a t-shirt/shell this would fit a size 18-20 and not be too snug.
Since this poor pattern has been used and folded so many time, I pinned it to graphed fabric called Pellon Tru-grid. You can see where I have enlarged it and also moved the center back 2 inches away from the fold for more volume. The waistline fold was opened and flattened to gain 3 inches in length front and back. Since I had enough fabric to make the longer version, I thought…just do it.
So what do I do first? Pin the side seams WST to make French seams. The side seams take the most abuse so they are done that way. The shoulder seams are just sewn RST and serged together and flipped to the back. Then all the edges which are now one huge circle are narrow hemmed like chiffon. Turn under 1/4 inch or so and stitch right on the very edge with a short stitch like 2.0. Once that is done, flip it to the right side and trim close to the stitching. Press a little and then fold the stitched edge to the inside and stitch again.
All that is left are the sleeves. I first French seam them, hem them and then run a basting stitch for some easing into the armhole although there is very little to ease. Once basted and happy, I machine stitch RST and serge the edges…and you are finished…2-3 hours of work and a gorgeous drapey feminine jacket you can wear all year long over other tops and dresses.
Want to see more…the Pinterest page has many others to drool over. Wouldn’t this be a quick project for a present for someone who has everything? All you need is 2 yards of 60 inch wide polyester chiffon and with sales and coupons, it might just cost under $15.
Before I go, just a quick photo of the backyard yesterday after a little dusting of snow:
Can you see that tiny creature in the red circle? That is our resident Anna’s hummingbird breed that stays in our frozen valley all winter when all the other breeds head to Mexico. We make sure there are feeders full for them all over the yard and under the eaves.
Three brides to go before Jan 2016….I can see the end of the tunnel!
Happy Sewing everyone and thank you for dropping by!