Roses and Lace

Have you ever worked on a $2000 dress? Me either…until now.


Catherine Deane makes such dreamy dresses and this one is covered in handmade roses:


Even the back dips very low with roses:


Yes, every one of those “dots” on the front are seed beads on tulle over 2 layers of satin knit. For some reason the back panels on either side of the zipper were wrinkling and all that was needed was to take in the back darts over the butt cheeks a little deeper and wider to flatten that area.

Another little challenge this week was this grey lace dress with another 2 layers of knit lining…this is really a trend and not a good one.

04630825_zi_dusty_blueWhile the dress feels nice next to the skin, the lace itself does not stretch as all. This time it just needed hemming and the original was just folded under twice and machine stitched across leaving threads hanging and big gaps as this lace is mostly air and vacant spaces. I suggested to the MOB that it would be a good idea to stitch the new hem to a strip of rayon hem tape first and then use that as a straight edge to sew to the dress. She agreed. Once the uppermost satin lining layer was hemmed by hand, the rayon tape was hand sewn to that which kept everything soft and free hanging.P1200342

You can see the one inch gaps between the designs. The hem from the right side looks nice:

P1200345    P1200344

Now there are probably half a dozen other ways to deal with this gaping lace but this was my fast solution. It can also be altered later by releasing the rayon hem tape because I am always thinking of the next seamstress who will have the lucky job of re-altering later on.

Mr. Mole shared a site he came across the other day of a new young designer Angela Clayton:

angela clayton

Wishing you all stress-free sewing this week while you are planning some Spring wardrobe like Kate and her SWAP (Sewing with a Plan) collection. Her sweet pea colors and silver accents just inspire! Don’t miss Ruth and her latest purchases of knit fabric for her Spring collection! She will wow us for sure!





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35 Responses to Roses and Lace

  1. ceci says:

    I wonder if you will be seeing the Angela Clayton dress for a bride next winter. Very pretty if rather over the top!


  2. Angela Clayton has a blog where she details the designing & making of all her dresses.
    She’s extremely skilled and I find her process (especially on her dresses from historical paintings) to be fascinating. She’s quite young (19 I think) and does not yet have a design line, she has been teaching herself costume design & advanced sewing the past few years.

  3. jay says:

    Fabulous stuff! Sometimes I browse Nordstrom and think who on earth would shell out $600 for a simple tee shirt, but those dresses, definitely worth the money if you have it.

    • mrsmole says:

      There are women who think nothing of spending $2000 on a dress like the rest of us spend $20. It always amazing to me that I am 5 hours away from a store like that and yet they do find their way to my sewing room.

  4. Nice rose dress, and the grey lace seems pretty too.
    The Angela Clayton picture is lovely. I’m yet to be asked to alter anything that includes fairy lights! That would definitely be a first 😃

    • mrsmole says:

      You know those gypsy brides from Liverpool who have the dresses made with all sort of additions like beads and crystals…lights would just be the next step. Fingers crossed that does not become a trend for either of us!!!

  5. Valerie says:

    A fairy light wedding dress! Now I’ve seen everything.

  6. Tee says:

    Wow, that gown is exquisite!!!!!  I have a used $2000 gown that I’m working on that is equally as beautiful.  Lots of beading/sequins/pearls removed to take in at bust and hips. The skirt is made of cascading organza swirls, which made hemming a cinch, just remove a layer of swirls!!!! hem the lining and trim the netting. 

    Take care lady!

  7. MIchaelC says:

    Those lacey dresses are beautiful. Thanks for pointing me towards that young lady. Her stuff is really impressive and so focused.

  8. I agree with the other commenter $600 for a t shirt is silly but this $2000 dress is fabulous! I would be afraid to touch it but I know you are perfectly skilled for the job!

  9. prttynpnk says:

    I just got a static burn licking the monitor. Nuff said.

  10. fabrickated says:

    Interesting projects there Mrs Mole. It must be a nice change to be a little bit scared by a dress rather than the frightening brides and their associated relatives. Wedding dress design is potentially so interesting – taking the chance to go completely over the top, just for one day. And thank you for mentioning my SWAP – just working on one wool coat is keeping me busy for weeks.

    • mrsmole says:

      Then adding in your draping projects, too…time can really fly when you are having fun! I used to welcome colorful bridesmaids dresses just to break the monotony of white and ivory and drama but there is no time for those anymore.

  11. Tia Dia says:

    That is an exquisite dress. Just gorgeous detailing. It would be so amazing to handle a dress like that!

    • mrsmole says:

      For me, Tia, the beading was so perfect, it took my breath away and it was all done on a sheer stretch fabric…amazing and then backed with the satin knit. But at the same time scary to have to do anything besides messing with the lining.

  12. erniek3 says:

    I went to Ms Clayton’s blog, and now I am gobsmacked.
    And thank you. Such beautiful work in this world! But the phrase ‘satin knit under lace’ if the lace does not ‘give’ is worrying me. Need more drinking if that’s coming my way. Much.

    • mrsmole says:

      It does may you wonder why they design these dresses that way with 2 fabrics that are incompatible. What it does is give a false hope to chubby girl getting into the dress while the lining can stretch a long way, the lace layer is screaming and twisting and sliding up to accommodate hips and tummy and butts. Crazy.

  13. sewruth says:

    That’s just what I need in my T-shirts – lights! And I’ll put them on a timer so that they flash. Inspired, thank you!

  14. Sharon says:

    Great save on the MOB dress. The rayon hem tape worked great. Innovation …that’s what it’s all about !
    And you are certainly the master !!

  15. Shams says:

    Wow, that is a gorgeous dress! It must be fun to work on high end dresses and to see how they are constructed.

    • mrsmole says:

      Yes, it is Shams, but you would be surprised at the construction…it is not always as fancy as you would imagine, far less structure inside. It always makes me wonder what the dress will look like after one dry cleaning.

  16. maryfunt says:

    Beautiful dress. I love the three dimensional roses. Thanks for the Angela Clayton links. Her designs are spectacular if a little over the top with skirt lights. It is costume design so probably over the top is fine.

  17. mrsmole says:

    Yes, Mary, the roses do take your breath away and like when I am watching Project Runway, it is a fine line between costume and couture…ha ha.

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