Remember the last jacket I started for Nancy? Well, as the fabric looks more like expensive home dec, it sort of has a nickname now.
Since the muslin stage, I used each muslin piece, some altered, as the pattern because not all the parts will be mirror images of themselves and working with that fabric it does have challenges like wide and narrow stripes.
Here it is basted and ready for the first try-on. There is a small strip of copper showing through on the right side band and that will need to be narrowed and eliminated.
I love the back with the center back seam, darts and the snakeskin.
Once it was tried on, the shoulders were a little droopy even with shoulder pads. The pocket piece was pinned on for placement and as I added to the length of the short jacket and not quite as long as the coat version, a decision was made to just extend the pocket all the way to the hem. The top edge of the pocket will have the silver fabric trim. The pocket is sewn into the princess and side seams.
When cutting out I added a little extra to the back lower section but decided that it was not needed so it will be trimmed back.
The bands were interfaced with tricot knit and now you can see the copper edges that will be hidden in the seam allowances, This fabric ravels like crazy so I pinked all the edges. I never worry about the interfacing not being perfectly placed out to the edges as all that will be inside concealed inside the bands.
To make the top of the pocket binding, first I attached the lining, then the silver strip. Flip the strip to the inside and fold under the raw edge and pin. Stitch in the ditch on the right side and the view from the inside. Then this will just sit even in the princess and side seams.
Nancy tries on her jacket for the hem marking and she is very happy and feels so artsy and elegant at the same time. The hems with be stitched by machine and she may want some sort of closure later as the pattern suggests.
Happy summer sewing everyone (in the Northern hemisphere)!