Continuing with the muslin stage of this jacket…before Nancy arrived, I tried it on myself.
Could it be more maternity ala 1950’s? That front bust curve hits at the wrong place for sure! The back curves swing away from the body too. What does that tell us? ADD LENGTH! The shoulder seams are already at their max so slashing is the answer to give more length.
Readers send me jackets photos similar to this and ask my why this looks like this and blame themselves for having a weird body. It’s not you honey…someone flat patterned this and forgot that real women have boobs and butts and hips…curves that are not taken into account on a flat piece of paper with no darts or seams. Hey, toss this muslin on a man it might just hang straight…where is Mr. Mole when I need him?
Once Nancy tries on the jacket you can see what she needed to get that front to lie flat. Of course we usually do this on all her patterns, so it is expected. Now normally, as I have mentioned, Nancy is a size 16 up top so why should we HAVE to add so much? Flat patterning. Once the patch is pinned on, you can see the front curve is sitting lower and nicer. The center fronts are supposed to just meet in the middle but they need help too…this is a size 22…really?
Have you all been paying attention to the unending collection of jackets and short coats other sewers have been posting? Do you see what I see…and what they see and moan about later…the center front hems flare away from the body and make long drag lines from the hem to the bust? Have you seen plaids tweaked beyond belief? Man, those plaids really show up fabrics that need more ease, length and slashing BEFORE cutting out. Wish I could include photos but you know that they are out there this season.
We do the back slash and the back drops another 2 inches to allow the top to drop down and into her waist. Normally I do a short-waisted/sway back alteration but on this pattern, who knows WHERE the waist is supposed to be??
Once the front and back are slashed it also allows the underarm side seam to drop and relax so the excess can be pinned out along with the huge flare of the skirt to show off the chevron feature. Can you see the red straight of grain lines diagonally? A final slight slash at the neck will allow the neckline to lie flatter too.
Before the lining fabrics are to be cut, I stacked them onto the fabric pieces to compare shapes and dimensions after Demented Fairy mentioned that her lining was small.
While the waists in fabric and lining are equal with 10 and 11 inches…not so with the skirt sections.
Check out the back waist of the lining…11 inches like the bodice but the skirt has its own excess flare. The hem measurements are 10 inches wider in the fabric than the lining so allowing the outside jacket to flare too away from the body and the length of the lining is 1.75 inches shorter than the fabric.
How about the front? Lining measures 10 inches at the waist but the fabric pattern is way wider. The front skirt lining is 12 inches narrower than the fabric and even shorter in length.
What’s a girl to do?
With a week to go and 2 more brides to finish…I sure hope those reindeer can find my house and leave some good gifts this year!
Wishing you all find the time for those last-minute gifts and projects while sipping eggnog liberally mixed with rum or whiskey!