Vogue 1561 – the slashing

Continuing with the muslin stage of this jacket…before Nancy arrived, I tried it on myself.

Could it be more maternity ala 1950’s? That front bust curve hits at the wrong place for sure! The back curves swing away from the body too. What does that tell us? ADD LENGTH! The shoulder seams are already at their max so slashing is the answer to give more length.

Readers send me jackets photos similar to this and ask my why this looks like this and blame themselves for having a weird body. It’s not you honey…someone flat patterned this and forgot that real women have boobs and butts and hips…curves that are not taken into account on a flat piece of paper with no darts or seams. Hey, toss this muslin on a man it might just hang straight…where is Mr. Mole when I need him?

Once Nancy tries on the jacket you can see what she needed to get that front to lie flat. Of course we usually do this on all her patterns, so it is expected. Now normally, as I have mentioned, Nancy is a size 16 up top so why should we HAVE to add so much? Flat patterning. Once the patch is pinned on, you can see the front curve is sitting lower and nicer. The center fronts are supposed to just meet in the middle but they need help too…this is a size 22…really?

Have you all been paying attention to the unending collection of jackets and short coats other sewers have been posting? Do you see what I see…and what they see and moan about later…the center front hems flare away from the body and make long drag lines from the hem to the bust? Have you seen plaids tweaked beyond belief? Man, those plaids really show up fabrics that need more ease, length and slashing BEFORE cutting out. Wish I could include photos but you know that they are out there this season.

We do the back slash and the back drops another 2 inches to allow the top to drop down and into her waist. Normally I do a short-waisted/sway back  alteration but on this pattern, who knows WHERE the waist is supposed to be??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the front and back are slashed it also allows the underarm side seam to drop and  relax so the excess can be pinned out along with the huge flare of the skirt to show off the chevron feature. Can you see the red straight of grain lines diagonally? A final slight slash at the neck will allow the neckline to lie flatter too.

Before the lining fabrics are to be cut, I stacked them onto the fabric pieces to compare shapes and dimensions after Demented Fairy mentioned that her lining was small.

While the waists in fabric and lining are equal with 10 and 11 inches…not so with the skirt sections.

Check out the back waist of the lining…11 inches like the bodice but the skirt has its own excess flare. The hem measurements are 10 inches wider in the fabric than the lining so allowing the outside jacket to flare too away from the body and the length of the lining is 1.75 inches shorter than the fabric.

How about the front? Lining measures 10 inches at the waist but the fabric pattern is way wider. The front skirt lining is 12 inches narrower than the fabric and even shorter in length.

What’s a girl to do?

Maybe take a break, go out into the garden and rummage around in the raised bed under the plastic cover to find….SPINACH! and chard in December.

With a week to go and 2 more brides to finish…I sure hope those reindeer can find my house and leave some good gifts this year!

Wishing you all find the time for those last-minute gifts and projects while sipping eggnog liberally mixed with rum or whiskey!

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20 Responses to Vogue 1561 – the slashing

  1. Sandi Benfield says:

    Wow! I would be so tipsy I could not sew a stitch but it does sound yummy😋

  2. lol- it’s SUCH a nice jacket though! When I make the next, it will be in ponte, and I will make the lining pieces match the ‘skirt’ as well as being considerably longer to hide all the insides [or else why bother?]
    Looking good missus

  3. jay says:

    Chapter and verse on why styles without waist definition aren’t as straightforward as they seem. I bet it will be nice when done though.

    • mrsmole says:

      It will take all the innovation I can muster along with lots of paper patches and tape! Some where in the skirt pieces there is a short line that says “waist” which bear no relationship to a waist level at all!

  4. sewruth says:

    I know Demented Fairy likes this but I’m truly not so sure in this case – such a flared ‘skirt’!
    The fitted top is good but maybe reigning in the flare would look better on Nancy.
    Go eat your greens and see what new brain power they give you!
    Have a very Happy Christmas – Mr & Mrs Mole

  5. Vancouver Barbara says:

    That’s a very interesting post. You did things I could never even have dreamed of and when I make this I will use your ideas as I have some curves too and would love the jacket to fit properly. Thank you very much.

  6. Tia Dia says:

    Oh, I love a good post on slashing!! Thanks for the lesson, Mrs Mole. Fitting posts like this are some of my favourites. Enjoy your greens, and your well-earned Christmas break! Have a merry one!

  7. kathyh says:

    I’m trying to get my head around your slashing and how you know where to and how much. Your alterations already make this jacket fit nicer and more flattering. Guess that’s why I love your posts. Thanks for sharing so we can learn..
    Merry Christmas! If you can eat kale in December, Santa owes you one.

  8. mrsmole says:

    If you think about where the drag lines point to…draw a horizontal line there…upper back, upper chest…the round parts and get out your scissors…ha ha. After sewing for a client for a while, you can guess at the points and get used to doing it. Of course, you MUST keep one hand under the muslin and NOT cut her blouse underneath!!! Thanks for asking, Kathy! We don’t have a chimney but Santa is not going to get out of my cul-de-sac with his reindeer without leaving something on my porch!

  9. Kim says:

    I hope Nancy truly loves this jacket. It’s even giving me a headache so I dread to think how you feel!
    Have a great Christmas Mrs Mole 😀

  10. erniek3 says:

    I reject the entire principle of this jacket. I wholeheartedly endorse the outing of the unflattering. And I am too tired to find the somethings I am thinking of, because when something stinks, I just toss it in the recycling and forget about it. When you put effort into making something, it should not insult your efforts with poor thinking, no thinking, no regard for how it looks when you wear it.

    And once again, thank you so very much for your efforts, your love and your good work. You are a gift. Happy holidays and all the love in the world. And bless Nancy; I hope this turns out for her.

  11. Fabrickated says:

    The lining story is particularly interesting – it takes you and Demented Fairy to call out a multi-million pound operation.
    I actually like the jacket, and of course your alterations improve it massively. I think this will be splendid for Nancy when it is made up.
    Like Tia Dia your fitting posts are the best. Of course I love the badly behaved brides but I learn such alot from your Nancy posts.

  12. Pingback: Nancy is Back | fit for a queen

  13. Pingback: Nancy’s Jacket Alterations | fit for a queen

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