This Casablanca dress didn’t need too many alterations except to add straps and more support. See the under-bust crease wrinkle?
I like to cross the straps in back for real stability and this way they will never slip down. The ends, be it front or back, can be sewn to squares of ribbons with snaps to be removable or sewn to the dress permanently if the bride can slip it over her head without taking her make-up with it.
The tattoo has been obscured.
Just need to hem the lining and the satin about 2-3 inches by machine:
After opening up the lining away from the satin layer I could see that it could use a bit more boning. I positioned 5 extra strips in the second photo which will be covered with fabric strips top and bottom.
This is a common problem that other seamstresses have shared with me. Below is a gown from a reader that had only 2 boning strips which is never enough for a full-busted bride. I suggested that she add 5 more like a picket fence…which she did in the second photo:
So, here we are pinned in place with fabric guards top and bottom.
Once sewn by machine to the lining, the skirt lining at the waist is French tacked at the side seams:
The new Rigilene boning is attached and flat and doing a great job.
On the inside you can see the twill tape trick was used to bring the top edge of the bodice back into the chest. The straps have been hand sewn to the lining.
Once the dress was tried on, the bride asked if the lining could be even more supportive, so I made more vertical tucks by hand to make it hug the body like a corset would have.
The result is a very nice bodice and a very happy bride and no more under bust horizontal wrinkles and the top edge cups into her chest:
The tulle hems were trimmed all around at floor level and the train was removed as well. You can see the trimmed fabric lying on the floor like a small animal.
Now that I am back home from the desert, the phone calls and emails from frantic brides have not stopped.
What might be coming up for the 2018 season?
This is going to be a challenge for support and coverage, don’t you think?