Nancy is Back

Anyone wondering about the Vogue 1561 pattern for Nancy’s  jacket?

Well, how about some photos of the paper pattern alterations?

Starting with the front, it needed more length to drop the bust point. You can see the yellow paper added along with a new dart.

Here is the dart folded out to make sure it is OK. The added 1.25 inches is taken up by the new dart.

What happens to the back? Let’s do a rounded back alteration. The original center back seam was cut on the fold but I added a seam allowance (curved)  instead.

For the lining piece, I kept the center back seam on the fold and added a neck dart instead. That way there are no seams in the outside denim, only the lining which will be cut from the same fabric for stability.

Let’s get cutting some denim and hand basting…

Just in case the center fronts do not have enough ease to cross over, as the pattern only allows for the meeting of center edges, I made a shaped tab in pink (later blue denim) that can be used as a feature or hidden. If Nancy chooses to button her jacket using the left front like a man’s jacket, then the tab will be hidden.

Here we have the whole jacket hand basted and pinned closed. Nancy likes the shaped tab so it will be cut from the solid blue denim of the skirt and have some stitching to echo the leaf pattern. It will be interfaced for strength as well and buttons or snaps chosen later.

Other changes will be to straighten the shoulder seam on the neck so it lies flat and not curve upwards like the pattern. The skirt will have a slippery lining as will the sleeves and the sleeves will have a 1/2 inch solid blue binding at the wrist to pull the colors together.

The back fits well with the curved center back seam and you cannot see the neck darts in the lining. Once the skirt is lined, it will not get hung up on her pants beneath. At this point, the side seams are just pinned and sticking out in a weird way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But one issue did crop up that needs fixing…did you see the sleeve head drag lines? So many blogs feature jacket and even blouses with sleeve head drag lines…OK ,it makes me crazy!!!

From the side you can see that I released the top of the sleeve to let it drop down 1 inch to make the horizontal grain lines parallel with the floor where the line of pins are.

I will re-cut the sleeves to make the sleeve head higher. Can you do that? Yes. Next time all will be machine sewn, topstitched, hemmed and pressed!

At this early stage of the bridal season, 3 weeks into it, I have 7 dresses hanging and basted and 6 more to come for fittings…but before all that runs down the conveyor belt AKA ironing board, it needed a good cleaning.

I have shown this in the past but it is always good to remind me and you about dust. If you dust your furniture/machines in your sewing room…what about the ironing board? I know I can remove and wash my cover but I don’t want to go to that trouble with the generator iron so I use water in a spray bottle and my favorite Resolve pre-wash stick. I spray the entire cover, swipe the stick over the top and then rub like crazy with a white flour sack towel. Yuck! But at least this is not going on my gowns!!!!

Now, before I go, I will challenge all of you to do the same. If you don’t have a stain stick, just using water will bring up some nasty stuff and dust as well…please try it!

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19 Responses to Nancy is Back

  1. erniek3 says:

    Regarding the jacket, the wavy peplum one of those design features I’d add to an existing TNT jacket bodice. It’s just not worth reinventing that stuff. That said, you are giving that design a beautiful showcase here.

  2. maryfunt says:

    I see what you mean about the sleeves. The jacket will be much more flattering once those sleeves are lifted up and put on her natural shoulder point. You reminded me that my ironing surface desperately needs a new cover.

  3. pdxknitter says:

    Thanks for the tip on the ironing board!

    I am intrigued by Nancy’s jacket and the process. I would have been drawn immediately to that odd seaming feature as well, however made up I have to say it is not super attractive (story of my life). I shall certainly hold the thought until it’s completed as a muslin never has the panache of the finished garment. I like the addition of a way to button it. I find that those meet-in-the-middle things never really do, and unless one is a stick, sortof emphasized the tummy. Your fixes are enlightening as always, and the workmanship is great.Can’t wait to see the final garment!

    • mrsmole says:

      I’m lucky that Nancy likes her clothes a little quirky and i can add little custom pieces to make her unique. Working with denim is not my usual fabric of choice and it really does not want to drape nicely until it has had some time under the steam iron.

  4. sewruth says:

    So…. I’m kind of thinking… why don’t you produce patterns already altered or at least offer a service? Is there a market for this?
    Don’t make me feel guilty about my ironing board – honestly, I have so many more things that I don’t do but should and I really don’t need another one….. LOL!

    • mrsmole says:

      Oh Ruth, sorry to bug you about your ironing board…but if you were working on white dresses every day you might feel the same as I do. For me, seeing a stained cover is like walking into someone’s kitchen and seeing a dirty counter top because it is where you work. My clients see my machines and ironing board etc while they are there for a fitting and they are judging everything, even the pictures on the walls and sugar-free candies in a bowl. I do offer fitting services for my ASG sisters and have done draping sessions and pattern making on occasion before the brides took over. On my business card, I offer “Pattern Perfection” where you can bring a pattern and have it measured and altered before cutting your fabric.

  5. janet says:

    I do many things on my ironing board. It is kind of a work place for me. Good thing I made 4 or 5 ironing board covers and can change them in a instant. Love the Jacket, above my skill set.

  6. Miss Celie says:

    Oh, you answered a question for me! I was trying to help someone fit the Hadley top from Grainline over the weekend. We did a forward and slopped shoulder adjustment. But, the neckline now pops up — similar to Nancy’s. I’m just going to tell said student to straighten out the seam line from the shoulder to the neck.

    I love these posts. I thought I didn’t know much about fitting. Turns out I know very little. Mostly from posts like these. And, when you see a variety of bodies it helps you analyze what’s going on too.

    • mrsmole says:

      The cool thing about having a live model like Nancy is that I can learn so much about altering that may never be found in a book. Working with young skinny clients doesn’t challenge your fitting skills as much with perky little boobs and no tummies. Call me crazy but drag lines make me salivate!

  7. ANGELA says:

    Would love to see a detailed example of how you fix sleeves… get the horizontal line where it should be… LOVE your posts, I learn so much!

    • mrsmole says:

      It’s coming, Angela…as soon as I can clear some of these very fluffy dresses out of the sewing room. It is like Cinderella has left her dress here along with some of her friends from the ball.

  8. Every time I visit you teach me something new! Thank you! 😁

  9. mrsmole says:

    You’re welcome, Linda…I learn something new from every badly designed pattern…ha ha! Everyone should go to see your latest dresses especially the color-blocked one! http://imadeit362436.wordpress.com/

  10. Kim says:

    It must be pleasing to have virtually cracked this now. I’m sure the finished jacket will make Nancy very happy.
    I’m so glad my ironing board would currently pass muster with you! (Good tips though 😃)

  11. mrsmole says:

    Still lots to do before this puppy is done like interfacing and more basting and making that sleeve fit better!!! I’m sure your ironing board cover is spotless as your knitting has taken over your sewing time, Kim!

  12. Pingback: Nancy’s Jacket Alterations | fit for a queen

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