Anyone wondering about the Vogue 1561 pattern for Nancy’s jacket?
Well, how about some photos of the paper pattern alterations?
Here is the dart folded out to make sure it is OK. The added 1.25 inches is taken up by the new dart.
For the lining piece, I kept the center back seam on the fold and added a neck dart instead. That way there are no seams in the outside denim, only the lining which will be cut from the same fabric for stability.
Let’s get cutting some denim and hand basting…
Just in case the center fronts do not have enough ease to cross over, as the pattern only allows for the meeting of center edges, I made a shaped tab in pink (later blue denim) that can be used as a feature or hidden. If Nancy chooses to button her jacket using the left front like a man’s jacket, then the tab will be hidden.
Here we have the whole jacket hand basted and pinned closed. Nancy likes the shaped tab so it will be cut from the solid blue denim of the skirt and have some stitching to echo the leaf pattern. It will be interfaced for strength as well and buttons or snaps chosen later.
Other changes will be to straighten the shoulder seam on the neck so it lies flat and not curve upwards like the pattern. The skirt will have a slippery lining as will the sleeves and the sleeves will have a 1/2 inch solid blue binding at the wrist to pull the colors together.
The back fits well with the curved center back seam and you cannot see the neck darts in the lining. Once the skirt is lined, it will not get hung up on her pants beneath. At this point, the side seams are just pinned and sticking out in a weird way.
But one issue did crop up that needs fixing…did you see the sleeve head drag lines? So many blogs feature jacket and even blouses with sleeve head drag lines…OK ,it makes me crazy!!!
From the side you can see that I released the top of the sleeve to let it drop down 1 inch to make the horizontal grain lines parallel with the floor where the line of pins are.
I will re-cut the sleeves to make the sleeve head higher. Can you do that? Yes. Next time all will be machine sewn, topstitched, hemmed and pressed!
At this early stage of the bridal season, 3 weeks into it, I have 7 dresses hanging and basted and 6 more to come for fittings…but before all that runs down the conveyor belt AKA ironing board, it needed a good cleaning.
I have shown this in the past but it is always good to remind me and you about dust. If you dust your furniture/machines in your sewing room…what about the ironing board? I know I can remove and wash my cover but I don’t want to go to that trouble with the generator iron so I use water in a spray bottle and my favorite Resolve pre-wash stick. I spray the entire cover, swipe the stick over the top and then rub like crazy with a white flour sack towel. Yuck! But at least this is not going on my gowns!!!!
Now, before I go, I will challenge all of you to do the same. If you don’t have a stain stick, just using water will bring up some nasty stuff and dust as well…please try it!