When Nancy travels, she finds the most interesting fabrics to bring back to me. This knit fabric was gorgeous with so many cool colors but it was very thin and stretchy and not tough enough for a jacket/cardigan. She also gave me the pattern Vogue 8910 designed for a woven not a knit. It has front shoulder pleats and back darts in View A and B. The front facing wraps all around the neck to become the stand-up collar.
I checked on pattern review to see if anyone else had used this pattern with a knit and didn’t find anyone brave/crazy enough to try it.
The knit was cut bias to show off the stripes and as it stretched equally crossgrain and bias, I figured that if I had enough circumference around Nancy, it really didn’t matter what the pattern suggested.
Without too many alterations (rounded back), I cut it out and hand basted all the seams. I also cut a grey knit lining to give stability as well but I may not line the sleeves.
Here we are all pinned with no sleeves, it would make a nice vest, don’t you think?
And with sleeves:
Once Nancy tried on the jacket, you could see that the lining was rolling to the outside and not letting the blue knit to relax.
So, placing the jacket inside out on the mannequin and pinning the grey knit allows us to see how much more fabric has to be added to the lining. The blue knit had so much more stretch than the lining fabric and I am not sure that there is a way to tell ahead of time. Both were cut diagonally but the lining needed more. You can see that a triangular piece will be needed to fill in the gap.
Here is the new patch attached and hemmed with the coverstitch machine.
The facing is cut on-grain and is basted on and you can see that the lining is now hanging straight. While the pattern called for having the lining not attached to the blue knit until the very end, I cheated and treated it as an underlining, keeping all the seams at the shoulder and neck all together as well as the armholes.
I also kept the lining and blue knit seams sewn together at center back to keep it from growing with every wearing. The center back makes such a nice chevron as well as the sleeves which are not lined.
Both hems had to be finished before the final front facing was attached. Then the facing will be machine sewn to the lining only.
The cool thing about this jacket/cardigan is that it will pack well for all her travels. And speaking of travels…
Do you remember that lovely quiche plate that I received from Kim when I visited her in Birmingham? Well, here is it holding a crustless quiche made with eggs, cheese, half and half, bacon, onions, spinach and mushrooms.
Add some avocado and it is just perfect for lunch with Mr. Mole.
Wishing you a great week of sewing projects to be started or finished or just some stash busting!