An email came to me with these photos and a request…”Can you make this fit?” and “What will it cost?” Here it is on the model.
Well, let’s start adding up the items…see the lovely red clamps on the shoulders? Don’t we all love working with fine netting and lace appliques? Will the appliques be removed easily? Are the sewn on or glued?
Then, there is the issue of the hem…we have seen this before haven’t we? A skirt that is 5 inches too long and lots of thick scallop lace trim. Is it removable or will it have to be cut away first and then hand sewn back into place higher up? Then, there is the skirt lining with 2 inch wide HH braid and any netting to deal with.
What else? A bustle…sure.
Here is something I have never seen before…a double layer of chiffon hemmed together at the floor.
It will be hemmed using an opening in the side seam or each layer will be hemmed separately.
The lace hem has to be raised 4.5 to 5 inches:
The shoulder seams have to be taken in 2 inches and the lace motifs removed first. See that fishing line/invisible thread sticking up?
A 5-point bustle will be needed to get all that train up for dancing.
Again, another first…under that lace edging is a 3 inch wide strip of Horsehair just sewn on for stiffness so if I want to shorten the hem, the HH braid has to be removed…by unpicking all the 3 lines of stitching. The bride says she is not fussy about putting the HH back so we may leave the front hem soft instead.
Just beyond the side seams, I cut the HH braid away.
Starting about 12 inches from the side seam, I measure up at an angle to the 4.5 inches level:
Then I red thread trace the new placement line for the top edge of the scallops. Just yesterday I was watching a video of how to do this, well, someone else’s version of how to do this on YouTube and she whipped off the edging and CUT OFF the extra tulle and re-attached the lace border higher up and I was gasping! Beside not taking into account that the bride might change her mind/wear different shoes or the lace/tulle relaxes between fittings, she just machine sewed all the lace edging on without a fitting. Scary or gutsy?
This lace edging has been sewn with teeny tiny stitches and impossible to remove so I will cut around each top edge first.
The scary part…done…and ready to be pinned higher up before the next fitting.
Each tip of the lace is now pinned and ready to be hand basted with white thread.
The bride decides that she does not want her chiffon train. First the double layer is pinned along the hem and then the row of pins are matched up after thread tracing the new hem level.
Using the Frixion pen to mark the chiffon which will disappear with the heat of the iron.
Once marked, the dress is tried on the mannequin to check for the levels.
The two chiffon layers are now going to be separate and way shorter.
Let’s not forget to trim the organza layers once the lace border is basted and ready for try-on.
Even after hand basting, the lace hem needs to be raised up another inch.
But at least the altered shoulders sit well.
The final fitting yields a bustle that clears the floor evenly and a front that clears the floor perfectly too. Some days I am amazed at how well things turn out…must be those fairies who come in and sew during the night every night…God Bless them!
On the gardening front, we have new photos. First are Bing cherries, California peppers and finally lots of lettuce, spinach, chard and tomato plants.
Happy sewing everyone! Stay hydrated!
That’s a beautiful gown! So happy you “made it fit”. So much work goes into these alterations. I happy you are willing to share your techniques. Lovely garden … you’re all set for winter now, aren’t you?
Thank you, Linda…sharing keeps me sane and knowing I can encourage other to do the same makes me smile. Winter? Oh Honey…summer is just around the corner and all our good intentions might result in withered plants once the 100 degree days arrive…hydrate hydrate hydrate!
Ugh! I couldn’t stand 100 degrees!
How about 114? The first summer we lived here, it got that hot and we were really wondering how to cope coming from Liverpool where the summer temps reach the 70’s. Now we are used to a month of 100+ degrees and really appreciate when the Fall returns with cooler nights.
I would definitely love cooler falls after that heat!
You never cease to amaze me! Your work is amazing I love reading your blog, thank you so much for sharing your work with us!
Thank you for following along, Miriam!
It is a pretty dress on her. That’s a nice change. And the lace border transplant looks great. Aw, you’re the best!
Even though tthe lace border was wide and had horsehair braid under it…it can be tamed!!! ha ha.
Such an ethereal bodice on that gown. So pretty. You have the patience of a SAINT!
I also have a sympathetic husband who takes me out to dinner from time to time to get me out of my room!
A lovely dress, now beautifully fitted. And a bride who sounds like a reasonable person!
You know having one nice client makes up for all the other weird ones, Elle!
I just had a prom dress with the double layered lining sewn together at the hem. I had never seen it before either! I did go into the side seam and replicated the original. It was interesting to see that.
I love reading how you solve the mysteries of gown alterations!
When you explain to the client that the hem was made first and then attached to the dress it just confuses them. I tell brides that their dress was made from the bottom up and going back into the closed-in hem is harder than it looks.
The current gems are a lot of work with all of the House hair braid. I did a prom dress that had multiple layers with the three inch braid. A ton of work but I was amazed how well it worked out. I have decided much of the lace edges are sewn on my computer memory and so very difficult to remove. I am cutting more but oh so scary! Love seeing your post and the use of your marking pin. I need to try that one. Thank you for taking time to share!
Be sure and test a small area to make sure the iron will make the lines disappear! Way faster that thread tracing in some cases. I love them!
The bit of smile I can see on the bride’s face screams joy! And it should :))
She was so sweet and at the end I gave her the final bill and she said she should be paying more for all my care in getting it right…makes me smile too. Thanks, Marcy!
I would love to meet you one day and give you a BIG HUG for all the joy you bring to brides!
Let me know when you are in the Pacific Northwest…I’m sure I will always be here!
Another interesting expert alteration. Lifting and shortening all that lace makes me feel a bit quesy but you take it in your stride. It looks great and really flatters her figure. And I envy your fruit and veg.
Cutting lace it not everyone’s cup of tea, Kate, but one gets more darling day by day. Now…the veggies…check around at your new house and find a little patch where you can plant Swiss chard…the neighbors will think it is decorative plants and you can harvest all summer into the fall. Three minutes in the microwave to wilt it and a knob of butter…yummy!
Great work again, and a beautiful result. I enjoy ‘watching’ your work, but I’ve got to say it’s a bit of a relief when you don’t have to magic up an extre three or four inches of girth to make the back fasten. The dress looks perfect on the bride, all the repositioning of lace and hemming so worthwhile.
Oh Jay, I say to Mr. Mole that sometimes even I am surprised at how well re-positioned lace hangs so straight! Corset backs…wait a minute…isn’t it time for another one??? What’s coming up? How about metallic flowers covering a dress that has to be altered big time??? Wishing it was just a simple corset…hmmm.
Another amazing job.
Thank you, Donna…wish you were closer to come by and have a laugh at all these dresses and brides!
YOU are the amazing sewing fairy! Lovely job!
Wish I had bigger wings to fly east to visit you in your sewing room, Carolyn!
I agree with the comment above – you are the sewing fairy. Amazing!
Sewing fairies also can copy designer dresses like magic…love your latest creation, Beth!
You are amazing! I am in awe of your sewing.
Your sewing and knitting adventures are so cool, Bev! http://sdbev.wordpress.com/
Thank you for the extended post. If people don’t learn from you it’s because they are not paying attention. I always look forward to the next posting.
OK Alex…maybe I should title a post: “Wake up folks and save this for the future”? So many crazy requests this year…but so many good posts in the pipeline!
If you are a cherry lover (as I am), see if you can find a Sonnet tree, without a doubt the best cherry ever. I live close to the largest cherry exporter in BC, and they sold me on Sonnets. They are big, crisp, bright red, with a tiny pit. Awesome. And they are an early variety.
Of course your sewing is amazing, As always.
I’ll have to check that out, Elle, thank you. So many plants have restricted areas and cannot be brought across state lines. We found this out while searching for different blueberry bushes. Even butterfly bushes are illegal to bring in.
I did not know that, I know I can’t cross the border with plants or fruits, but I didn’t realize individual states had restrictions.
That’s one of the prettiest dresses you’ve shown us, and so flattering on the bride. Marvelous!
There are more of this style coming along and there seems to be no end to the tulle skirts…sigh.
Thank you for sharing. It is amazing the workmanship done on these gowns. Really enjoy reading your adventures in wedding gowns. Great garden.
Thank you for following along…we all learn from others!
Your skill and veggies never cease to amaze me as I live in the land of red clay. How has your experience been with the frixion pens? I have heard horror stories of the ink reappearing once exposed to cold.
That might be something to test on a scrap of satin. Even if the color comes back slightly, the marks are on the very hem edge so that should not be a problem as the overlay of tulle etc covers the satin and lining. But I will check…thanks for bringing that up, Beth
You must be treating those fairies very well…they just keep coming back to you! Wonderful job! And the bride kept her purchase to be altered within a reasonable size-range, too! I have been following your blog for a while, and I admire your patience and determination to make (just about) anything fit!
It seems to be a season of letting out hips as well. I have photos coming up of dresses I refused to work on after seeing salons that can clamp 4 inches out on a dress just to entice the bride to buy it with the promise, “A seamstress can make it fit”.
Bing cherries? Oh, my, what a treat! Your produce all looks so lush. Do you can or freeze the cherries?
Lovely gown and what an amazing amount of work went into this one! Questions: Is the edge of the nude tulle just a cut edge at the neckline? I am thinking it is. Also, I would love to know how those buttons were applied to the tulle in the back. It is a lovely effect but must have some sort of reinforcement, right?
It is our first year to see cherries, so I’m not sure what will happen to them. There may be just enough to eat for 2 moles after the birds have their fill. The buttons are merely sewn to the folded edge of the netting, no reinforcement at all and they are heavy pearls. Sometimes there is a strip of something behind them but in this case…nothing. The edge of the nude tulle/netting is just plain, not even any support stitching. So happy to see you back commenting, Bunny!
Beautiful dress. Don’t you wish that the manufacturer would just send the dress unhemmed with lace edging & HH braid in a bag. It often takes more time just getting the dress taken apart so you can actually work on it. It’s nice to know that this bride appreciated your talent.
Absolutely, Mary! Lace hem edging in a bag…my eyes are tearing up just thinking of how practical that would be!
Wish you had been the one to fit Meghan Markle’s wedding gown. What a disappointment after seeing the perfectly sculpted one Kate wore.
The first thing Mr Mole said to me that morning was, “What’s up with all those wrinkles in her side seams?” I had to laugh…yes, poor fitting and who needs drag lines on your wedding day?