Just Sweet

First time I have ever worked on this brand…Sweetheart. The dress looks lovely on the model so what could be needed to have a perfect fit and a perfect wedding?











In real life, here is what has to be done to get this bride down the aisle:

Bust cups, hem lining, hem satin, hem chiffon, 1 point satin bustle, 5 point chiffon bustle, take in chiffon skirt side seams, take in the zipper 2 inches and take in the underarm area, then add a new belt. Now that is a lot of hand basting for sure!










The new beaded belt doesn’t quite fit around but her veil will cover that. Once the zipper is taken in it won’t be so noticeable.

Take in both side seams in chiffon and satin layer and lining:

Make a one point bustle in the satin:

Reducing center back seam at zipper one inch on each side:

Second try-on with zipper basted and bustle pinned:


Hemming satin layer by moving the horsehair braid up about 5 inches and  3/4 around the hem:

Five lace covered buttons for the bustle, they do just blend in. To reduce the extra chiffon, I had to make new fish-eye darts in the chiffon from the waist to the hips just under the middle buttons on both sides.

Taking in the side seams 3/4 inch under the arm by hand. Here is the outside view:

Here is the inside view. By sewing by hand you can get just the right amount of excess fabric removed and flat and still leave the excess fabric inside the fold in case the next bride needs it.

The bride is wearing her sister’s veil for “something borrowed” but they discovered it had a hole in it. You can’t just pull the sides together and start stitching. What is required is that same technique doctors use for skin…

Extend the opening to an oval and then bring the flat sides together:















A hole becomes just a slit using polyester invisible thread by hand. Once the bride is wearing it, the repair will just fade away. I just love the dainty pearl and sequin edging!

With our temps being over 100 for the next 2 weeks, our tomatoes are finally ripening. Yes, it IS this big! Mr Mole grew everything from seed this year. The grape tomatoes were grown from slices taken from store bought ones last year.

I leave you with a quote from another seamstress who made history for not giving up her seat on a bus:


Knowing what must be done does away with fear.

Rosa Parks
Visit Gratefulness.org
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18 Responses to Just Sweet

  1. JenL says:

    Ms. Parks is right, in all areas of life, and especially for our current situation.

    The tomatoes are really lovely too.

  2. Sharon P. says:

    Moving horsehair braid … Ugh !
    One slice of that prize tomato would be the perfect size for a BLT on toast along with your fresh lettuce from the backyard ! Now ya got me salivating.
    Did not know Rosa Parks had been a seamstress. Thanks for sharing the info.

    • mrsmole says:

      At least the braid was hidden inside the lining and satin layers and it was narrow. Those 2 inch wide puppies are not easy to wrestle with! Rosa Parks had guts…probably from dealing with cranky picky brides…what do you think, Sharon?

  3. jay says:

    A very pretty dress. Who would have thought it needed so much hard work.

  4. Mem says:

    I like this dress except for the back . Poor you , so much work .

    • mrsmole says:

      The back was a little weird but there are others that look better. So much work but the bride was so appreciative…such a bonus for me and she even gave me a tip which normally I get 2 tips a year.

  5. DebJules says:

    Mrs Mole I have been following your blog for a while but just recently read all your posts back from the beginning. Yours is the only blog I have done this with as I admire your sewing skills and love the way you overcome the sewing challenges you get and your writing and photos explaining everything. I have just finished shortening the hem of my daughters satin box pleated wedding dress which has been a pig of a job to do. I have been sewing for a while but your blog has given me the confidence to tackle this, so thank you! However I don’t think I’d rush to do bridal alterations after this – I’m looking forward to sewing some nice cotton again after the wedding!

    • mrsmole says:

      It makes me happy to hear that you gained confidence just from following me…it is my main reason for sharing so many photos. If I can do it…so can you! People assume because I have a Fashion Degree I would have learned all this in school…wrong! I learned everything you need to know to work in a factory from workroom sketching to pattern making, draping, flat pattern, production, pricing and layouts but never FITTING! That comes with handling many many bodies and following grain lines. Every dress has issues and we have to solve them. I too look forward to sewing on non-wedding fabrics when the season is over in January! Thanks for commenting…it means a lot!

  6. Trish says:

    Thanks for the tip about repairing holes in lace. That’s going to be very useful going forward. As always, I’m in awe of your patience with that dress! I felt tired just reading about the seemingly endless list of things to be done. I bet the bride had no idea what was involved. 😏

  7. mrsmole says:

    She got a good idea when the bill was presented and the photos attached. If she wasn’t so darn nice throughout the process, I might have been “resentful sewing” the whole time…you know what I mean, Trish.

    • Trish says:

      Oh, I certainly know what you mean!
      Attaching photos might be the answer for me too. I think some clients think we have a magic wand (if only), and have no idea how long the process takes. I itemise the steps taken on my invoice, but it doesn’t always mean much to a non-sewer. Food for thought, thank you. 😊

      • erniek3 says:

        Oooh. I come to this blog to learn a lot but this may be the best lesson so far. Photos.

        You are a blessing and a joy always.

  8. D says:

    Knowing what must be done does away with fear. – Rosa Parks

    This is an amazing quote, thanks for sharing Mrs.Mole.

    I’m stunned by your patience with fitting, fitting and mending! You are a godsend to those brides, even if most don’t realize that.

  9. Ang says:

    Hi Mrs. Mole, I have to 2nd what DebJules said above – I’ve read back to the beginning and your blog has given me confidence to try new things! I have no urge to repair/fit clothes – so I’ve learned to say no and refer the requester to a real business. And I’ve started making more clothes again – one of my teens loves dresses, the frillier the better – so I’m using your tips for altering to make new things. Latest is in progress is a pink satin dress with 2 layers of netting and then a layer of lace. Looks like a bridesmaid’s dress – but she just loves it. Now I just need a dress form and to make things for me!

    • erniek3 says:

      I have had a lot of luck with a hook in the ceiling. Hanging a dress out on a suit hanger (one of those big plastic shaped things, not the skinny wood ones) has really helped me get a handle on all those layers.

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