This Catherine Deene dress is so delicate.
You can see that the flare of the skirt comes from 12 lace godets/triangles. The hem is also scalloped. The saleslady told her that any seamstress can raise the skirt by taking apart the waist seams…really?
Remove the entire skirt and zipper to maintain the horizontal patterns of lace, remove the satin layer, remove the lining layer and raise everything up 3 inches…great idea…then the hip circumference will be at the waist…can you say “add a load of darts?”
My solution was to raise just the scalloped hem.
Here is the first photo I received from the bride in a salon. I am always amazed at what they make the bride stand on. Check it out…an old wooden box with barely enough room to move around…watch out you don’t fall off!!!
Two parallel lines of red thread will be stacked on each other to reduce it by 3 inches.
Two layers of thick stretch satin lining to be hemmed and side seams taken in…oh wait…do you see those French seams? Oh crap, that just adds more labor…let’s see 4 side seams, stitched once WST, trimmed and flipped and sewn RST…yes, 8 separate rows of stitching and pressing and the will never be seen.
Hems are red thread basted up and ready for try-on and then narrow hemmed.
Map out the first and second stitching lines for the French seams.
Make first stitching line and pink off the excess as it makes such a curve now. Press and flipped the pinked edge and stitch the second row starting at the top and finishing where the original stitching is.
Take in side seams of lace and trim away excess:
Using the flower and curves as a guide for cutting away and new placement. Using a straight thicker line of lace allows me to use the machine to re-attach it later. The two red thread tracing lines will stack and I will pin.
Starting the pinning
Of course the edging is now much bigger in circumference than the skirt higher up so the edging will have pinned tucks where it has the original seams first and then each seam will be stitched wider and trimmed.
There were 11 folds of the scalloped edge to be taken in and trimmed away before attaching.
What’s left? The train…is it normal…oh no…it is a center back godet train. Luckily it has its own center back seam for stability when attaching the loop (see the little green thread).
Just a view with the satin bustled on its own and with both layers down:
Brides need to know that some of their pictures can show off the lace better if the satin is bustled up for some views.
The final back view with the lace bustled up:
With another week of 100+ temps, the squash and peppers are producing!
All the larger variety of tomatoes are showing up and this year we have a brown sunflower as a surprise!
Wishing you all a great week of sewing and some relaxing too!