Twelve Months of Anticipation

Wtoo Lapis on the model in the video looks perfect, no wrinkles or drag lines or puckers.

Some brides are so excited about their wedding that they insist that they make an appointment almost a year in advance just to get time “in the mirror” in my sewing room. So flash back to the first appointment, Nov 2017.

Can you see some problems other than the extreme length? What is that weird indentation where the lace diverts above the tulle in center front?

Can you see that the top edge of the bodice back droops down? Surely the zipper will have to be moved over a couple inches.

Eleven months later nothing has changed:



The front still has that indentation and the bustle will need 5 points.










Oh Happy days…two more layers of heavy nude knit lining to be bustled up and a 5-point tulle bustle too.


The bride wanted her 5 points to be higher in the middle and the side points lower. You can see that even with 5 points we still have some “dog ears” sections of the tulle hem that need trimming off the floor. It would have been clearing the floor with 7 points but that is what you have with tulle.

The finished bustle with lace covered buttons:


This dress also displays the fact that having thick embroidered lace attached to tulle over satin does not always flatter the figure.

Wrinkles occur everywhere as the fabrics do not “play nice” with each other while still needing ease for walking and sitting.















That front indention has been reduced by releasing the lining and satin layer at that junction and the circumference of the bodice especially at the top fits better after removing one inch on either side of the back zipper. Again…hey designer, did you check how the finished gown would hang on a real body? Or did you mean for the eye to focus on that point for some reason?

What about that horizontal waist wrinkle? No matter how much the dress is smoothed down from her waist to her hips, what it really needs are some straps or a halter to hold up the top and keep it from drooping or a belt.

Standing up very straight helps but it is really a day for lots of hugging and dancing!










What does this bride need for walking up the aisle: How about an 8 foot long tulle veil with a blusher? Draping the ironed veil over a sofa helps to keep it wrinkle free.

Very few of my brides opt for the blusher to be brought forward over their face but this time it works well:


This week after months of watching and waiting for our first watermelon experiment, Mr. Mole harvested this beauty when he found it had split itself open. Being a seedless variety and grown from seed (how does that work?) it was amazing to see only a few black seeds and such sweet flesh! I cut it into chunks and took it to my local ASG meeting to share with my friends.


The good thing is that I finished the 13 September brides and am plowing through the 6 October ones while our weather continues to be in the low 70’s and sunny for all the celebrations. This Saturday, I have 3 brides getting married so the push is on to iron more long veils, attach bust cups and steam the dresses ready to go out the front door.

Neighbors have begun decorating their front yards like graveyards with fake headstones and skeletons and ghosts hanging from trees so you know Halloween is near. Happy sewing everyone and greetings to all the new readers!



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15 Responses to Twelve Months of Anticipation

  1. Susan Hart says:

    Hi Mrs Mole,
    So guess what?
    My son proposed to his girlfriend this past September and YES…!
    She IS that 12 month ahead bride to be, trying on gowns already! LOL😳
    I think in a way… to do it, with time to spare, can be a good thing so you can narrow down your best silhouette. But to purchase too soon can also backfire, if you become disenchanted with that first rushed purchase.
    I was unfortunately left out of the first try-ons…..and ME the seamstress…..go figure….😞
    Oh well….
    Good luck with everything…jealous of your watermelon…I tried but the sun didn’t cooperate for me up here so I have a baseball sized one that isn’t going to get any bigger.
    My little sugar pumpkin did better tho…ha ha!

  2. erniek3 says:

    After 1)watching my boss sell a mohair couch this summer (too big for my house) and 2)making a mohair velvet seam roll last week, you can forgive me for thinking that 3) a mohair couch would be exactly the pressing aid you could use for a veil. How is the veil going to get from here to there without wrinkling again?
    I feel like those of us playing along at home on the Mrs Mole Bridal Alterations game should make scorecards. Maybe bingo cards. Straps/fighting layers/five point bustle/barn wedding/mom’s dress/bustle back….

    • mrsmole says:

      OH NO Stephanie, My poor sofa is only a resting place for veils!!! Bingo cards…you have a weird mind, honey! You remind me of when I have to go to the Doctor’s office for my annual physical. The nurse calls you into the hallway and weighs you and shouts out the number like she is calling numbers for Bingo.

  3. Val says:

    Mrs. Mole: I’m curious. What’s your opinion on the 2 layers of knit – operative work knit – lining in this dress? Or more generally knit lining for a woven outer fabric? Does the double layer of lining help the ‘outer’ layers of the dress slide or move better against the inner layer and the wearer’s body?

    • mrsmole says:

      Probably a couple things it does as you suggested, sliding, but also being a buffer under the lace which can be quite delicate, almost a contrast to the thick knits. On wovens…I am baffled so it must be the choice of designers wanting something that eases itself into many styles and sizes? I don’t know as it is usually beige or nude and does not match the outer fabrics. Other than that, it is poly and washable where the rest of the dress is not and has to be dry cleaned.

  4. maryfunt says:

    You are right about the fabric layers not playing nice with each other.It looks like the lace layer got stretched during construction and is now too tight. The watermelon looks lucious and I’m sure was enjoyed by all.

    • mrsmole says:

      It is true about the layer of lace as it was pulled away from the satin under it, maybe be the weight of the lower skirt tugging it down? We can’t fix everything, can we?

  5. Rena Pearson says:

    So if you cut off the “dog ears”, what does the train look like when it is down? Do you cut if off while the bride is wearing or on a dress form? Your skills always amaze me! Those wrinkles with the satin and lace though would have driven me insane 😉

    • mrsmole says:

      With such a volume of tulle and many layers, the area I remove can be blended into the remaining train without anyone knowing. Normally the amount is 1-2 inches and with the train measuring at least 8 feet in circumference or more, 1-2 inches just won’t be noticed. If it were satin, I would have to add more bustle points. The train will be bustled for 90% of the event so walking down the aisle and some photos are the only chance anyone would see the train in all it’s glory and when the bride is walking, the fabric just trails behind her and is distorted into a single strip. Thanks for asking, Rena!

  6. Susan Hart says:

    When I worked @ a bridal salon and had to protect a veil from too much wrinkling, we used tissue paper and rolling it seemed to work the best.

  7. I like that style of wedding dress, but those wrinkles were terrible! Nice work again, Mrs Mole. You are quite the gardeners too!

  8. Valentina says:

    I just came across your bog and love everything about it. Love the fact that you are not afraid to take on difficult projects, I thrive on those challenges. Simple alterations put me to sleep lol.
    Not sure if it’s ok to ask but how much do you charge approximately for those bustles.

    • mrsmole says:

      I charge per point so a 3-point bustle would be $60. It is hard to really figure how many minutes/hours a perfect bustle will take to work out the angles and get the hem (always curved) to hang just right and every bit off the floor for dancing. I know other shops would charge double that from what the brides tell me. Most of mine are done with hand made loops and metal backed satin buttons which are just included in the price and take way longer than attaching a couple ribbons.

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