Double Trouble

Very rarely do I ever get the same dress twice in a season but this year it has happened again after the last 2 sheer dresses. This time it is strapless lace Wtoo Preston.


Let’s see what both of them need: Twill tape at the top of the bodice, 1-point bustle in lace and a 1-point bustle in satin and lining.

Bride #1

Bride #2

Then they also needed a horizontal waist tuck which would be covered by a grosgrain belt sewn into the zipper edge.

Bride #1

Bride #2 also trying different placement of possible lace flowers:

The difference comes in the straps. Bride #1 wanted romantic tulle straps/sleeves and the other was more streamlined with covered grosgrain straps.


Both would get 1-point bustles in the satin and lace:


But the first bride did not want her lace hem shortened while the second bride was tall and ordered extra fabric at the hem. I understand that ordering an XL style (extra length) you can designate either 3 or 5 inches longer. I’m not sure which one she ordered but we ended up having to remove the edging and raise it up 1.5 inches.

You have to decide where you are going to cut, usually along a stable edge that can be machine stitched later. Using curved embroidery scissors works a treat on curved edges. Scalloped edging pinned on and excess lace folded under for the try-on.


Just before the final try-on, bride #2 decided that she wanted the bodice taken in even more than the first alteration. So, the zipper was removed again and moved over and up to the top of the bodice.

Looks simple enough but wait…what happens to the lining? Of course, the boning has to be shifted over as well.

Remove the side of the label, remove the boning and move it over:

A scalpel does the job removing stitches:

New position for the boning to add extra stability:

Bride #2 has to have her tulle layers trimmed as the XL length also added more tulle:

She also wanted buttons down the back after the belt was hand stitched into place over the horizontal tuck:

The finished dresses are both flattering to the brides and also they don’t have to spend the whole time tugging at the top of their dresses and can just enjoy the event.


Thinking about buttons? Here is a lady who has a world of buttons!

With Fall temps still in the 70’s daytime the veggies are still hanging in there even with frost temperatures dropping to near freezing. The spaghetti squash has done well this season. We have already had one and given one away so that leaves 8.

Happy sewing everyone and welcome to the new followers!


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14 Responses to Double Trouble

  1. Migdalia Garcia says:

    amazing andwonderful job.

  2. Laura says:

    The button lady. Whoa. She’s probably got some hidden away that are worth a big buck! You’re still amazing me with your abilities.

  3. jay says:

    Gosh! I’m so often in Spitalfields and hadn’t fallen on the button shop. Next time for sure.

  4. fabrickated says:

    I love the way you did the tuck at the waist. It’s so neat. It’s also interesting that they both wanted straps for security. A well made, personally fitted strapless dress should stay up wouldn’t you say, Mrs Mole? Or is it an impossible look for a lively wedding?

    • mrsmole says:

      I tell my brides that I sew everything to withstand a lot of dancing and hugging and as soon as a bride raises her arms to hug, her circumference reduces inside the dress and then things start to slide down…gravity too steps in. I also do not know what the heck they get up to as many weddings take place in forests and include running through the woods and I dread to think what the hem of the dress/bustle will look like at the end.

  5. Trish says:

    A beautiful job on both dresses Mrs Mole. I envy your patience though. When you had to move the boning and take out and replace the zipper twice, I think I would have had some choice words to say to the bride! Sometimes it would almost be quicker to make the dress from scratch rather than keep taking it apart and putting it back together. I guess the satisfaction with the finished product is what keeps us doing it.😊

    • mrsmole says:

      Knowing that few other seamstresses in the area would be so accommodating makes me smile. Another sewing sister always says, “if our clients knew how much we bend over backward for them, they might even tip us”…but let’s not get into that rare bird! Moving zippers doesn’t bother me, moving boning, a little more labor but what I hate is sewing on the hooks and eyes at the end of the journey…so fiddly!

  6. Tia Dia says:

    I love how one design can be so personalized! And the tuck through the waist is brilliant. Thank you for posting, Mrs Mole! I always learn such a tremendous amount from your blog.

    • mrsmole says:

      It really was an opportunity to see how one design would fit so badly on two thin brides and the solution was so obvious to them as well that they jumped at the tuck and belt idea and adding straps just made them feel so secure. Thanks, Tia!

  7. wedreamaloud says:

    Wow! You inspire me! I love the waist detail, it’s a perfect final touch for a perfect dress 🙂

  8. mrsmole says:

    Every so often brides select a colored belt to match their bridesmaids…I wish there were more to have fun with their custom wedding. Using the grosgrain ribbon instead of shiny satin allows the lace to be the star. Thanks for dropping by!

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