Remember the bride who is being encouraged/pushed into wearing her soon-to-be Mother in law’s dress from the 80’s?
Well, here is where we left off last time. All the lace and sequins and pearls have been removed and saved (by order of the MIL).
Since the bride and her whole family did not buy plain lace fabric, I have had to completely take apart the dress, all of the pieces and cut them separate from the new scalloped lace netting they did buy. Hoping that lace fabric would be 60-72 inches wide, what I got was 52 inches wide minus the two scalloped selvedges of at least 6 inches deep.
Once all the darts and tucks were opened up and pressed flat along with the linings, it was easier to see what had to be done and in what sequence.
The bodice back lining:
The bodice back satin:
No hope of adding ease to the side seams:
Slide pleat to the side seam at the hip:
Front lower skirt with lace edging pinned under:
After all the edging is removed along with the old zipper:
Wondering what’s inside the front bodice? Look here…a facing band over the lining!
Every possible seams is let out to 1/4 inch or less for the try-on:
The sheer sections will be filled in before adding the lace layer:
What looked like princess seams on the outside are really just one long dart in satin and lining:
Once opened up and pressed flat, not much hope in adding anything to this piece either:
Back bodice satin and lining pieces pressed flat:
Bodice top and straps and lower center back panels. Safety pins mark where the bustle points may be later:
Center front lower panel:
Front skirt panel removed…how is that curve going to be used with a straight scalloped lace selvedge? The panel is folded in half with a center fold just for the photo:
How about the back skirt…how do you get that curve to be straight? There are 2 of these to be cut out. Again safety pins mark the possible bustle points:
Mary of Cloning Couture was able to help me be brave and innovate to make the skirt pieces work. You can see that I used the front skirt panel as a pattern and used some Do-Sew pattern tracing material.
You could also use tracing paper or anything else but this was handy. To get the curved edge to be straight, I cut random lines to spread out the hem edge:
Once the cuts were made and spread apart, they arranged themselves into equal spacing with either 9 or 11 inches between the sections. Yes, each section will be sewn to the adjacent section and have vertical seams but ending at the scalloped edging/hem.
Then it was time to make the back skirt do the same AND fit all this on 52 inch wide lace. Center back seam has to be 48 inches long and the side seam has to be 36 inches to match the front skirt side seam.
This time, the wedges worked out to having a spread of 13 and 36 inches to be straight. Then all I had to do was to cut 2 of those so the center back had a seam. Again, the sections will be sewn to each other and have vertical seams to close the gaps.
Here we are, all the pieces except one more back skirt panel to be cut from the remainder of lace.
I managed to get all the pieces cut out of the narrow lace and Mr. Mole thought I should include a “fed-up” photo after wrestling with these pattern pieces all day on the living room carpet.
Now the dress has been totally hand basted back together and ready for the next try-on. A huge Thank You to Mary for holding my hand along the way!!!!
BUT…the big BUT…every bead and pearl and flower and sequin had to be removed from the new seams even before I could hand baste and definitely before the machine would be used to finish. OH, and yes, I have to SAVE EVERY ONE for the MIL.
Everything is saved and bagged up. The buttons that were originally on the sleeves will be used along the new zipper down the center back.
So, dear readers, the days are shorter, the nights are longer and colder but the dresses just keep rolling in and I want to have this puppy done before Jan 1, 2019!!!!
Thank you all for following along and I wish I could share with you these delicious homemade sugar free raspberry scones that Mr. Mole has made for me: